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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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My '83 GL: The Ski Wagon


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1736 replies to this topic

#376 AdventureSubaru

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Posted 10 March 2012 - 11:58 PM

I can't even tap the roll pin out of the DOJ side (Closest to the Diff) maybe with more Deepcreep and some heat I can pound it out.


Had the same problem on a front pin on my old 83 wagon. Got it loose by putting a drill bit to it. Ground out about 1/2 an inch and then it came loose. Might be worth a shot.

Edited by AdventureSubaru, 11 March 2012 - 12:01 AM.


#377 TheLoyale

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 12:01 AM

Had the same problem on a front pin on my old 83 wagon. Got it loose by putting a drill bit to it. Ground out about 1/2 and inch and then it came loose. Might be worth a shot.



I had the same idea, these are harded steal, but it might loosen it up. Perhaps I'll try this tomorrow since its gonna be 60!

#378 TheLoyale

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 12:23 AM

What is with this grill. Looks like a factory emblem delete grill? 1983 Brat:

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#379 MilesFox

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 01:19 AM

I am not looking forward to the wheel bearing(s) I can't even tap the roll pin out of the DOJ side (Closest to the Diff) maybe with more Deepcreep and some heat I can pound it out.

I will have to pound the entire axle out through the bearing and back in, as I did on the XT6 as I am not going to be able to serparate the Axle from the stub in the knuckle.


take the whole diff out with the axles and set the works on the ground. If you get the pin out, the cups will probably be seized to the spline. Use plenty 'blaster and heat with a propane torch, and a 3 lb hammer, whack, rotate, whack, etc.

You can take the axle off the inner doj to be easier to whack at. use a hammer with a wedge end.

#380 6 Star

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 01:25 AM

The grill on that Brat is just like any other factory ea81 grill. You just unscrew the emblem from the back side.

#381 TheLoyale

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 01:27 AM

The grill on that Brat is just like any other factory ea81 grill. You just unscrew the emblem from the back side.


Did not know they unscrewed. Thought it was molded.

Fox, helpful info!

#382 TheLoyale

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 07:34 PM

Removed the Dealer installed A/C.

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More space.
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Welded in a patch. 1 of many needed.
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I think this radiator will make it another 70,000! :rolleyes:
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Little bit of wax brought back the shine (Needs a better waxing though)
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Front crash bar
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#383 jboymechanic

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 08:13 PM

Tom, as you weld in patches make sure to seal around the welds with body seam sealer (if you haven't already, you're a smart guy). As for sound deadening, a lot of the old Chrysler guys like Fat Mat, works as well as Dynamat but not as expensive.

#384 TheLoyale

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 09:44 PM

Tom, as you weld in patches make sure to seal around the welds with body seam sealer (if you haven't already, you're a smart guy). As for sound deadening, a lot of the old Chrysler guys like Fat Mat, works as well as Dynamat but not as expensive.


Where do you buy a Seam sealer product? I will probably just seal it up with bed liner if I put it heavy enough.

Good call on Fat mat, I'll look into that.

#385 bheinen74

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 10:06 PM

pretty sure you know, but bedliner over rust of any sort, is like adding water to mold.
You need to use rust neutralizer rust inhibitor to kill it, then you coat it, but I am positive you already know this huge important detail.

bedliner is okay but it is porous and when you put it over any rusty part, the rust is spreading due to not air sealed off. bedliner is not what i would use.
even if your bedliner is non porous, you need to use a rust inhibitor etcher to kill it, or you are in trouble in a few years short time when the cancer spreads. Kill your cancer.

#386 Moosen

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 10:19 PM

What is with this grill. Looks like a factory emblem delete grill? 1983 Brat:

Posted Image


idk but dope ************ing wheels :D

#387 TheLoyale

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 10:22 PM

Brent, I know about removing the rust before coating it. There is no point on painting over rust, I usually grid it away or use a converter if needed.

#388 bheinen74

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 10:25 PM

Brent, I know about removing the rust before coating it. There is no point on painting over rust, I usually grid it away or use a converter if needed.


ok. it is the internet so not sure everybody is aware good you know that.

#389 TheLoyale

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 10:28 PM

I made that mistake about 5 yrs ago on my Loyale, I just covered up the rust with Bondo, as I though that would keep water from getting to it. 2 years later the bondo started pulling away revealing more rust.

Needless to say I did it proper last year. RUST is the Enemy! We must eradicate the enemy! Napalm!

#390 bheinen74

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 10:30 PM

most of this latter post is something the west coasters can ignore. they would have no need or use for pb-blaster, sandblasting, rust etcher inhibitor, undercoating etc.

with the overspray i see on the crashbar and radiator it is as if the front has seen some paintwork prior.

Edited by bheinen74, 11 March 2012 - 10:36 PM.


#391 TheLoyale

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 10:34 PM

I guess we under estimate the Westcoast and their Rust. This is a 1983 Brat out in the PNW and the Rockers are rotted away along with the hood lip. Most of this must have been sitting rust, sitting in a field or something.

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#392 bheinen74

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 10:40 PM

no, i doubt that car was registered to west coast its' entire time.

that car was moved to the west from somewhere.

#393 TheLoyale

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 10:43 PM

no, i doubt that car was registered to west coast its' entire time.

that car was moved to the west from somewhere.


That is possible, I forgot what the Sale ad said, if anything. Its too bad this Brat wasn't taken care of.

#394 jboymechanic

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Posted 12 March 2012 - 05:04 PM

I get all my body work and painting supplies at Monark Auto in Burlington, quite a trip for you. I'm sure there is a similar store in Waukesha.

#395 Subruise

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Posted 12 March 2012 - 05:08 PM

idk but dope ************ing wheels :D


the emblem is screwed in from behind. you can delete it yourself.

#396 TheLoyale

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Posted 12 March 2012 - 08:42 PM

Jon, Yeah there are a few Auto body supply shops around Waukesha, I might even go down to NCS in West Allis since I've been there more then once for the Loyale.

Rob, Lol, I just looked at my grill, indeed it is removable! Subaru was thinking ahead for the Tuners of the '00s? :lol:

#397 TheLoyale

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Posted 12 March 2012 - 09:10 PM

So here is an updated, comeplete list of everything I need to do to get this car up and going, and up to my standard of a DD. These are not in any order.

List:
1. Clean, Seal and Install rust free Fuel Tank (Once I get it)
2. Replace pretty much all Fuel and Brake lines under the car
3. Attack the Underside surface rust with a Wire wheel and/or Grinding Disc
4. Weld in needed floor patches
5. Coat underside of the chassis Hard Bedliner, Epoxy Paint and Rubberized Undercoating.
6. Coat inside of floor pan with Hard Bedliner
7. Cut out Old Rockers and Replace with Rust free versions, Coat backing of Panels with Hard Bedliner (Once I get them)
8. Drop Rear Trailing Arm tube, Clean up, Seal up, Reinstall
9. Replace Bad Rear Wheel Bearing
10. Replace Bed Front Axle
11. Replace Radiator, Hoses and Thermostat
12. Replace All Brakes and Wheel Cylinders
13. Change All Fuilds, Oil, Diffs, Coolant
14. Reinstall my Interior
15. Replace Gate Window Seal
16. Replace/Redesign Rotted Front Valance/Rad Support
17. Replace Rear Dampers
18. Crank up the tension in the rear and adjust my front springs
19. Replace Every and All Vac lines
20. Clean Engine Bay and Motor
21. Drive it!

Edited by TheLoyale, 13 March 2012 - 12:13 AM.


#398 MilesFox

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Posted 13 March 2012 - 07:07 PM

Jon, Yeah there are a few Auto body supply shops around Waukesha, I might even go down to NCS in West Allis since I've been there more then once for the Loyale.


If yu go there again, ask if they would put por-15 in aerosol cans, i that is possible. Maybe the shortie aerosol cans. The idea being use a can, but the whole thing, but without the rest of the quart drying out. However many cans you have is how many times you can use it.

#399 TheLoyale

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Posted 13 March 2012 - 07:57 PM

If yu go there again, ask if they would put por-15 in aerosol cans, i that is possible. Maybe the shortie aerosol cans. The idea being use a can, but the whole thing, but without the rest of the quart drying out. However many cans you have is how many times you can use it.


I like this idea, as $30 for a Pt. is costly if it does dry out.

Although, I think I read somewhere on POR15s site that they could not manufacture the coating in an Aerosol version as the thinners used for Aerosol style paints would destroy the Coatings ability to adhere correctly due to chemical structure breakdown.

And POR-15 is to thick to be used in a spray gun, whether its a Gravity fee or not.

All I can say is this BLOWS!

#400 Idasho

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Posted 13 March 2012 - 08:05 PM

dont bother with Por-15. Way too much fuss.

Check out Monstaliner's chassis paint.


http://www.monstalin...o_stop_rust.htm




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