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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...


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1584 replies to this topic

#1376 Kostamojen

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Posted 09 November 2011 - 02:03 AM

Not really much I can do with that.

#1377 bheinen74

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Posted 09 November 2011 - 02:10 AM

Not really much I can do with that.


aw, come on. You could clean it up, find out what it is. etc.
:drunk:

You should call the guy at Subaru Heaven, he has the stuff you need. I can get you his number if you pm me a request for it. Before he sent the last batch of 800 Subaru cars off to the scrapper, he filled the 8 huge buildings with parts from those cars.

#1378 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 09 November 2011 - 01:53 PM

... he filled the 8 huge buildings with parts from those cars.


Holy Cow!

That's really a Subaru Heaven... Where is it? ... Any Website for Online Trades?


Sorry for a Little Hijack the Thread but I Need certain Parts...

So Kosta; that engine isn't the one for your FF1, isn't it?

Have you consider the idea to import a Rebuilt one from JDM?


#1379 Kostamojen

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Posted 09 November 2011 - 06:33 PM

Actually, I talked to someone today who said re-sleeving the motor won't be a huge deal if I disassemble it myself (not a problem). Might be cheaper than expected, but I still can't afford to do it at this point.

#1380 leone

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Posted 10 November 2011 - 05:07 AM

I had a thought. I apologize if I missed something, but I didn't remember reading in the thread about the cam set up on that eBay short block (I assume it was some kind of NOS situation).

Fuji parts shipped a number of dry-sleeve EA-63 blocks cammed for outboard exhaust (intended for pre-76 warranty issues), but they also shipped dry-sleeve EA-63 blocks cammed for inboard exhaust (for later cars with the SEEC-T system and manual transmission).

If you haven't already, probably a good thing to double check the cam set up before breaking down and reassembling the block. Again, I apologize if that had already been covered in the thread and I just missed it.

P.S. I personally don't mind the wet-sleeve blocks. The one on my '73 wagon has never let me down. The heads just have to be assembled correctly with new crush rings and head gaskets, and then correctly re-torqued on schedule (something customers and dealers apparently could not ever seem to do right in the '70s). I suppose you wouldn't want to turbo charge an early wet-sleeve EA-63, but then even a dry-sleeve EA-63 isn't much up to that either. Posted Image

Edited by leone, 10 November 2011 - 05:09 AM.


#1381 Kostamojen

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Posted 11 November 2011 - 06:26 PM

I swapped in the correct cam for the dual port head.

#1382 Kostamojen

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Posted 12 November 2011 - 09:19 PM

So I added up all the receipts I've saved over the years for this car today.

Total: $36,000

That includes the over $25,000 for the bodywork/paint.

It does NOT include the purchase price of the car (not much) or all the extra things I didn't keep receipts for (Paper towels, disposable gloves, gas money for all things related, etc.).

#1383 Crawlerdan

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Posted 12 November 2011 - 10:50 PM

i have access to a few 1400s around here, will that help?

#1384 bonvo

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Posted 12 November 2011 - 11:05 PM

holy crap 25k on body work O_O for that much why isnt this thing gold plated :P

#1385 Kostamojen

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Posted 13 November 2011 - 01:05 AM

i have access to a few 1400s around here, will that help?

Any of them dry-sleeved?

#1386 Crawlerdan

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Posted 13 November 2011 - 10:53 AM

i have no idea, they are in 73 coupes in a wrecking yard in idaho

#1387 Kostamojen

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Posted 13 November 2011 - 02:52 PM

Probably not then...

#1388 Kostamojen

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Posted 20 January 2012 - 07:04 PM

Surprise Update:

Got a early B-day present, some door/window edge trim seal (bulb seal, molding, whatever you want to call it) from Amazon.com. $35 for 20 feet, not bad. Still need another one for the driver side door:

Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image

I tried to install the side rear windows, but I realized I filled the holes for the hinge :(

Its also a pain in the rump roast to install these windows without chipping the paint! Its not as easy as it looks.

As for the door windows, I still need some window channel felt in order to install the frames. And of course the trunk seal too.

#1389 Legacy RallyGuy

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Posted 21 January 2012 - 01:21 AM

Despite the setback of the holes and a few tiny things and the engine, we all love your car and think it's amazing! Wish mine was as far along!

keep your chin up man, it's sooo close!

#1390 Mike Kamm

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 08:12 AM

I agree. This is one of the best threads ever!

#1391 moosens

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 02:18 PM

We all wish we lived around the corner. :)

#1392 Kostamojen

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 04:45 PM

Alright folks, I'm having issues installing the rear side windows, one of my levers is broken and I'm concerned the non-broken one is about to break. They are made of REALLY brittle plastic and I'm concerned, so I'd like to replace them.

Plus, I accidentally filled the holes for them at some point, so the holes for these are gone. Making new holes for different versions of these would be OK since I don't have any holes right now. Heck, I'm not even sure what to call these, anyone know the technical name?

Posted Image

FYI, I pulled some off of a later model Loyale, but they won't work. Way too different.

#1393 Subafreak

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 06:44 PM

How are they attached to the glass?

#1394 bonvo

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 07:38 PM

i was just looking at the head pics you have posted are you sure they wont bolt to a 1600? the holes for the studs look to line up by putting those heads on a 1600 not only do toy get more displacement but you still have the exhaust ports where you need them

#1395 maudsland

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Posted 17 February 2012 - 06:28 AM

Maybe you might try to get it plastic welded and buid it up, file it down and drill the pin hole. Pain in the bum job
Cheers Thierry

#1396 moosens

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Posted 17 February 2012 - 07:40 AM

I think ctsuba might have those.

#1397 Kostamojen

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Posted 17 February 2012 - 05:55 PM

Maybe you might try to get it plastic welded and buid it up, file it down and drill the pin hole. Pain in the bum job
Cheers Thierry

The whole thing is brittle and about to break, both of them.

I think ctsuba might have those.

That his full screen name?

#1398 Kostamojen

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Posted 17 February 2012 - 06:10 PM

Looks like Datsun 510 2-door window latches might work... Anyone have a pair of those lying around? :o

#1399 Numbchux

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Posted 17 February 2012 - 06:33 PM

There are lots of vehicles that would have something similar. Caravans had rear quarter windows that could flip open a bit like that. Sometime in the late '90s, they switch to an electric mechanism that could be operated from the driver's seat....


A quick search on ebay, brings up a few options, and it looks like dodge pickups used the exact same latch. These should be EXTREMELY easy to find in a junk yard.
http://www.ebay.com/...#ht_8172wt_1016

this one lists the OEM part number too:
http://www.ebay.com/...tr#ht_499wt_718


found a picture of one installed in a pickup:
Posted Image

Edited by Numbchux, 17 February 2012 - 06:39 PM.


#1400 Pooparu

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Posted 17 February 2012 - 10:33 PM

I've got a few extra for my '82 hatch that might work. Just pay for shipping and I'll through a good pair your way.




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