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Thanks guy. The tensioner does look suspect - the small pin that pushes against the bracket to create tension looks somewhat mis-marked like it's not contacting evenly. I'll go ahead and replace that. It's OEM - I'm about to restart it with a new belt, I'll see if I can see the tensioner flopping around at all. I had a 1997 EJ22 tensioner (same one piece style) do that - I guess lost hydraulic pressure and was slapping a bit until it warmed up. Though I don't recall it wearing the belt weird. I'll try to post a pic. It's very odd - like a worm ate through the top of the belt in spots...I'm exaggerating the car was still driving but it seems like anything pulley related would simply be straight not curved and wiggling across the surface. -
I've seen a bunch of videos of people offroading in their GL's, mostly the wagon. I saw one person upgraded their suspension and really wanna know how they did. - Today
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So what do those people who off road in GL's/Loyales just stock suspension? Thanks so much for your help I saved those on eBay so I'll get an email if any of those pop up.
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It might work, not sure though. The issue is the strut sockets into the steering knuckle, so you'd need a strut that had the right diameter and spring mount location. Here are the 4WD strut parts numbers I had in my notes. There are some used Loyale struts on eBay at the moment (both right and left). Front Right Sachs: W0133-1932779 Front Left Sachs: W0133-2038805 Front Right TRW: JGM4031SR Front Left TRW: JGM4031SL Front struts are very difficult to find. They are available but the parts availability seems to come in waves. There's not really any "upgrade" parts for these cars (there are overload springs out there). Just finding parts designed for these cars is an accomplishment. :] -
Nevada changed their profile photo
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I can't either for sale, this one is the only one I have found for sale, is there a way I could convert it to a different car's suspension like a forester or something? I do want to offroad what are my options can I just opt for an upgrade instead?
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88 GL - Distributor not sparking.
88SubGL replied to Yarlissa's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
First thing you need to know is why was the car parked, sitting for 20 years. Second, distributor cap off and try starting, to if the rotor is turning. If it isn’t, then you have a broken timing belt. -
Any SPFI throttle body for a DL/GL/GL-10/Loyale would work. Just visually inspect yours and if it looks the same, you're golden.
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You can replace them with 2WD or 4WD ones. Only different is a slight height change (2WD sit lower) so replace both of them. Your springs will still work on either. Grab some new bump stops and bellows for the struts if you have the scratch. I think there was some TRW struts out there very recently. Good luck :]
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I can find the rear struts easy on places like rockauto, o'reilly's and other sites. But I can not find any front ones. My friend says it's possible I have DL front suspension or are they the same? If anyone has 2 spare shocks for sale or knows where to find a front left and right struts please let me know I need to replace them ASAP.
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Nevada joined the community
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What about the belt-tensioner? Is it behaving itself? And another possible suspect: the belt guide-shoe, above one of the pulleys? (only installed on manuals, I think) -
Got pics to show the wear? Something must me misaligned - an idler pulley that’s worn, the water pump shaft worn out but this usually results in a leaking water pump. - Yesterday
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1987 GL-10 Wagon Throttle Position Sensor Issues
OCDan replied to OCDan's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Would the replacement throttle body need to have come from the same vehicle, an 87 GL-10 wagon with the EA82 SPFI engine? Or could it come from other years/models? -
I'm working on my grandfathers car that has been sitting for almost 20 years and my dad was trying to help me get it working. There was no distributor in it when we popped the hood and we managed to find a 87 GL distributor. We cut the connectors and we matched the cars wire color to the distributors and cranking it over it won't spark. My dad found something online saying swap the green and white wire but we don't have a white wire and we don't want to fry it. Any ideas?
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I'm only running this way for testing purposes, it's temporary. I DO NOT NEED RECOMMENDATIONS or discussion about how bad of an idea this is. I've driven a few hundred miles and the top smooth surface of the Subaru belt is showing odd grooving and uneven wear. It's never touched any fluids and belt and pulleys are all OEM and only 5 years old with maybe 50,000 miles. I checked them just in case although there's really no way for a pulley to cause such uneven wear. All of the pulleys and water pump seem fine - so I'm wondering what's causing this - could it be the heat from the exhaust coming up from those 2005+ odd exhuast systems that run forward under the timing belts? That seems really unlikely but I've also never seen a timing belt do this before. I'm going to install new pulleys and water pump and timing cover, but I'd also like to know for sure what's causing this.
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Yes my 2005 Impreza has to bulbs the H1 Low beam and a separate Hight Beam bulb. -
Found this in a 2011 NASIOC forum: So it looks like the following Subarus use H1 low beam bulbs: 2004-2005 Impreza 2003-2004 Baja 2000 - 2003 Legacy
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good, so where do the H1 go? -
Big hammer on the front and rear of the lower arm. Hit it hard and the taper will release. I never used a fork, cause I don't have one.
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Single H4 bulb, with 2 filaments.
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I’d be working out what fried the ECU first! No use spending good coin on a replacement ECU only to have the same thing happen again!
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I have seen throttle bodies for sale on eBay. Granted, they really aren't cheap. Enough to make me wince ($350-$400). HOWEVER - with the throttle body you get a TPS, an injector, a fuel pressure regulator, and an IAC valve. You'd spend over $400 if you bought the parts separately (if you can find them *cough* injector & OEM regulator). It's not the cheap route, but the parts would be genuine and you'd have spares. You may get lucky if you spend a few hours on the eBay rabbit hole. I saw someone list a throttle body as a carb a few months back for a crazy low price. I'd just check all the electrical hoopla going to the TPS before plugging it in. Just my 2¢. :]
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FUJI Bond...aka Super three bond or what not
subaru1988 replied to WJM's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I suspect the reason people say they might "leak for no reason" are the bolts being previously overtightened which creates a pinhole/crack behind said bolt for the coolant to come out of. As a result, someone might suspect a gasket leak. I had this problem, and I fixed it with the Permatex coolant specific RTV. A light smear on the gasket and bolts worked. That said, you really shouldn't have to do this, as the paper gasket should be fine, but these cars are older with many hands that have been on them at this point. - Last week
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And Car-part.com: 1999 Engine Computer Subaru Impreza 22611AE510 X AA0682 $125 Avalanche Auto Parts USA-CO(Denver) E-mail 1-303-722-3151 -
P.s.s this age they should be PlugnPlay - remove the battery cables 1st if you're not familiar w/the process. Also, check the EGI (?) fuse under the hood- the big one. Might have gotten blown, too. GL
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This shows '99 only but AT and MT use the same: https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/Engine-Control-Module-ECM-Engine-Crankshaft-Position-Sensor-Bracket/49232072/22611AE510.html I'm not sure about the '99 being MAF or MAP based? If it has the MAF by the airbox then it's likley a one year only ECU, since I believe the '00-'01 EJ22 were MAP. Here's one on Ebay: 22611ae510
