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Many 2004s are still cable as well (Legacy chassis, only Cali 2.5s and Baja turbos). But yea

If it is off by as much as you say, I can't imagine it is going to "settle in". You likely got a set of struts that fit, but not a set that are proper. I had a similar thing happen with new front struts for my older Subie wagon. It raised the ride height noticeably and also gave me excess positive camber that could not be adjusted out. The seller assured me they were correct and he proved it by showing me some cross-reference chart online. The cross-reference chart was a no-name document from who knows where and showed that the same front struts would fit any of the three models for that year, even though the factory clearly made three different versions with different spring rates and ride heights to cover the available models that year.

I had an issue somewhat similar to what you're experiencing. My GL would start, only with throttle input and would idle like garbage. But it would smoothen out at slightly higher than idle rpm. What it ended up being is a broken IAC wire in the engine wiring harness. I had to test for continuity while bending the engine harness to try to find the break in the wire. Took me longer than I'd like to admit to find since the IAC tested okay. :]

Yes that's the spring. Hope the bushings take care of it.

QUICK NOTE: AVLS Follower witness marks Just found a blurry image of the AVLS follower that was measured. It is good enough to see the areas of actual lobe contact. You can see how pushing the high lift lobes outwards limits the maximum contact distance away from the cam axis. This directly limits the maximum velocity of the valve. for the same velocity, the distance would be larger for a flat follower. Here. the AVLS cam designer is clearly using all the available velocity, for both the high lift and low lift lobes.

oh right, if it's 2.5 electric throttle. the tps is in there but not easily replaceable, you have to adjust the set screw for it and have an ecu data reader. though, i've never heard of a tps failing on those style of throttles. they either completely fail with the motor not working or make a terrible grinding noises if the gears are sheared. the tps part is pretty reliable

do you have the FSM? the one for my forester does have a spec for the ride height "wheel arch height", check to see how the number for the OB compares to your actual car

I understand it to be that after 2003 no more cables just dreaded fly by wire. All models. Don’t have our 2006 handy but I’m pretty sure it’s on the right side of the throttle body.

Mistery solved, its the bushings..... now to crawl under the car....

My 2005 is nonturbo 2.5 and has the non cable electronic accelator pedal.

Hi ultimates My girlfriends 98 forester 5M/T shift lever is not self centering anymore while in neutral. Remember that happening to me in my legacy and then fixing it, but it was a while ago.... I was sure the spring you can see from beneath the car that was missing (see pic), but when i went ot check its still there... odd... so my memory is not that good? So where is the centering spring located? a link to the relevant illustrated parts list would be appreciated.... Tnxs

Update: Found a regulator that fit but the symptoms persist. Thanks for the insight here, Scooby! The owners before me seem to have made a lot of changes to the electrical so I'm not certain I'd be able to pull reliable codes. That being said, I'll see if anything you mentioned above RE: EG temp sensors, breather hoses, EGR valve etc. are causing the issues. More diagnostics to come!

2005 nonturbo should be cable throttle, it should be on the opposite end of the where the cable throttle goes and replaceable.

Is the Throttle Position Sensor built into the Throttle Body or separate? Maybe in subsequent years it was built in?

QUICK NOTE: On service manual open/close times The lead out ramp on all cams measured tends to be larger than the lead in ramp, and when calculating the check height for the factory specs it tends to fall below the start of the lead out ramp. This tends to skew the 'close' point further away from the maximum lift point of the lobe. I don't have any confirmation on this, but Subaru may be using the start/end of the ramps or the start and end of the max acceleration events as their definition of 'open' and 'close'. Quickly checking the EZ30R, which has about 5 degrees offset between open and close and max lift when using check height, gives the correct duration and is close to symmetrical about the point of maximum lift when using the edge of the acceleration curve. The importance of this, if it is correct, is that you can calculate the timing of max lift by calculating (close - open) / 2 from the service manual. You get no insight into the lobe timing when the cam is on the lathe, obviously. I did measure the sensor chopper disk that the ECM uses to sense cam timing, so I might post that up later.

Leone’s 1979 Subaru Leone wagon discussion - Project Discussion - oldschool.co.nz Here is a thread of where im at, it's pretty slow going right now, so much rust to cutout and replace, and as i haven't done a build quite like it I'm taking my time, Have a professional panel beater on hand for the tricky stuff so no I'm mainly drilling spot welds and attempting some fabrication of patches and panels (that wont be seen)

Hey charles, i would like to make this mod, did you end up making a guide? I was told by two experienced subaru guys that 'legacy and ea82 knuckles are a direct replacement on ea71 cars and have much better brakes'. I very much compromised the brake assemblies that came on my car (welded the rotor to the caliper trying to get the castle nut off lol) because i thought i was gonna have no trouble replacing the knuckles. Your thread here is the only example i've found so far of putting newer knuckles on a 70s leone, so thank you! I've been reading the forums for a few hours and i'm starting to go cross-eyed, can you clarify if the mod for the end of the A-arm is for fitment or for widening the track? In other words what is the path of least resistance to getting EA82 brakes on an EA71?

Starts and idles just right. (Am I right that the idle circuit uses less info from sensors/ECU?) The first gear shows gentle surge pulses, and in second gear, between 1700 and 2500 rpm, the rougher ‘cut out’ happens pretty consistently. If I’m driving at low speeds 1rst and 2nd gears, I can get it to even out, but when running on the open road at 40 mph and faster, the throttle pedal has to be feathered to avoid pretty violent on - off power cycles that are split second in length: bucking. Temperature doesn’t seem to affect this problem. Engine load (uphill grade) might make it worse, but that’s not definitive. The TPS was always suspect, but tested fine for voltage and resistance, so I didn’t change that immediately, and several days ago when I replaced it, no difference.

EZ36 Cams A facebook user was kind enough to share an EZ36 measurement. It appears to be measured using the same machine as the EZ30R 'Cam Doctor' measurements. So, it is reasonable to assume that it was measured using the same flat face follower. It certainly appears legitimate. As the EZ36 uses flat buckets, not correction is needed. Now, we can plot all EZ engines on the one chart. Inlet cams are not very different. The measurement appears to take into account clearance but based on the FSM check lift, there might be a 0.05mm difference. This is possibly doe to using the lower limit for the clearance value rather than mid range. The EZ36 has the smallest exhaust cams. Service manual check lift 1mm check lift 0.050" check lift Engine Cam Clearance Gross Lift Net Lift Factory Spec At 1 mm Lift At 0.050" Lift Open Close Duration At Lift Open Close Duration Open Close Duration EZ36 Inlet 0.20 9.90 9.70 15 BTDC 49 ABDC 244 0.243 -108.99 107.43 216.42 -106.64 105.00 211.63 Exhaust 0.35 8.66 8.31 24 BBDC 24 ATDC 228 0.192 -100.16 99.79 199.95 -97.78 97.31 195.09

Thanks for the advice, I'll be heading over to the shop tomorrow to drop off the replacement and I'll see if I can get a look at it or see if they've already done that themselves. When I have more info I'll update, hopefully with good news.

It's really hard to diagnose something like that without the "feel" of what it's doing that a test drive gives... Does it idle well, or does the problem happen at idle too?

I know that feeling. I have an EJ turbo conversion on the go for the last four years. I’ve barely touched it in the last year. It’ll get there. Cheers Bennie

Correct, the engine and wiring from the first GL swap are installed in the current Brat GL. I have a fuel pressure gauge, downstream of the filter, rigged just as you describe so it can be read when driving. 38-40 psi at idle, high 40’s when throttle opens, and holds when shut down. Actually the pressure slowly rises from 38 to 45 at engine off, holds at there for a hour, then slowly falls to zero over several hours. I think the pressure increase at engine off is heat expansion and assume the injector system is okay since it holds awhile before decreasing. The tank always pressurizes quite a bit, to the point that gas vapor smell is obvious, probably through the gas cap vent. This seems to be the only difference in the first GL with this engine and the current Brat GL-buckeroo. Your statement about the oscilloscope is helpful. It’s what I’ve been thinking is next step. (This particular model 2.2 didn’t use MAF, instead has manifold pressure sensor plus intake air temperature sensor.) I will need to get a shop to do this, but am concerned the Frankenstein aspect might add difficulty to getting that help. I’ve tried to use live data on my reader, but don’t get far. I also have back-probed at the ECU to read voltages of various sensor signal while driving, all looks solid. But the scope can show oscillations, while the meter only shows steady 12v at the injectors, for example. Thank you for the input. It’s encouraging.

The L went with its owner this morning, no time to tinker so couldn’t test the mechanical advance. Haven’t heard from them so all must be well enough… Cheers Bennie

Thanks! It appears someone definitely paid for the undercoating and it paid off. I've only seen some very minor flaking on the front bumper attachment points.