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I have good used ones, rust free from CO. $35+ shipping.

I have a good used spare MAF. PM me.

I recently bought a 1982 glf and it’s without a backseat. What backseats will fit if any? Needs balljoints is there anything specific I should get? my mirrors were stolen anyone got a set for sale? and anymore insight into this car would be nice. It’s got the factory Sunroof too

shifter bushings might also be causing a problem. don't use synthetic GL-5 in the trans - many folks report problems. a cheap-ish fluid that some folks like, is the synthetic 'blend' sold at walmart. Subaru's gear oil is good, Motul is good but pricey, Amsoil Severe Gear is good. Any name brand conventional gl-5 should be OK. If you still seem to have problems, drain the oil into a clean container and save it for your replacement trans. check car-part.com or maybe consider a JDM trans.

someone may have put it in to try to SOLVE an abused trans. Or, try to quiet it to re-sell...? might be an indication the car was being abused - any other signs of modifications? how much sludge was on the magnet?

PB Blaster or some similar penetrant and let it sit. Move slightly then apply more PB Blaster. Repeat.

Stock it would have the Mitsubishi TD04H. The IHI VF40 was only used on 05-07 LGT, and OBXT. In 2007 or 2008 they switched to the VF46.

Correct. It has knurled, hand-fit 251 pistons, and 642 head gaskets. Done at my shop a few months ago. Bill was over $3k. They are buying a 2005 from me to replace it. Insurance offered them a $150 buy back. I have to know by tomorrow morning if it's going to be bought back or the insurance company is going to make the owner a cash offer on settlement at which time they are liable for my storage up to the point when the tow guy hooks it up. Insurance company storage fees at my lot are $100 per day. This is to ensure a speedy settlement in the owners favor. The insurance company wants to stop those storage fees and the longer they low-ball my customer, the more they owe. Works great and a nice revenue generator for me. I don't much care what happens to it. Not much call for 25D's anymore around my shop, and I'm not warehousing parts for 20 year old cars. Not enough room or enough money in them. But yeah, to the right person, the engine is easily worth $2k with the work that's been done to it. Was a very well kept car with excellent history. 143k on it. 141k when we did the work. GD

Okay. I will going up to do an electrical job in an area where I know where a couple of them are and will touch bases with the people and see what I come up with. I will let you know.

When replacing a Legacy BJ I slather the bolt with anti-seize and also paint some into the female threads with a small brush. I also pack enough chassis grease into the BJ pocket so that it squishes out of the slot when I insert and tighten the BJ, then wipe off the excess. My goal is to fill with grease all the cavities that might hold salty water. With that approach I've found that years later the BJ is still easy to remove and find no evidence of rust. Our Rust Belt is an exceptionally nasty environment. My son brought me a 96 legacy from Wyoming - many dents underneath from the back country roads but not a spec of rust and every bolt came out clean. Wyoming certainly has Winters, but they don't use road salt...

even if you drill it out from the backside with increasingling larger bits, if you end-up damaging the threads, you can use a thru-bolt with a washer and nut.

VF40 turbo models are the worst. 05-07 Legacy and Outback turbo models use the VF40. None of the turbo models are a good idea really. They are all maintenance intensive when old. GD

loose or broken connections would be where I would start. next I would visually inspect the fuel pump wires from the pump all the way to the fuse. voltage drop generally occurs when a run of wire is too small for its length. As am example I've installed really long runs of wire for street lights and to prevent voltage drop we start with a wire bigger than your thumb at the begging of the run and end up with a wire that is no bigger than a pencil led. My point is that if anywhere along your fuel pump wire is partly cut or has damaged connectors that would reduce the amount of surface that current can be carried on it will result in voltage drop

For the mirrors, you could go back to stock which are easy enough to pull from any EA81 vehicle. The mirrors that are shown aren't originals (OEM JDM mount on the top edge of the fender, not from the side), so if you really want the JDM look but don't care about originality any eBay cheapies will do the job. If it's rust-free it's worth keeping. If the doors are full of filler and the sills are gone, it's only worth scrap metal.

You need a new map light assembly or you need to open it up and resolder the surface mount circuit board components. GD

This guy is a broke college kid. This vehicle will only serve to distract and frustrate his efforts toward his future. Moving on to a newer chassis is what makes sense. GD

Took heads off. Hit piston head with sledge hammer and pipe. Started turning by crank bolt and the remaining broken off connecting run pieces came out . Now its turning enough to get the remaining torque converter to flex plate bolts out.

Start drilling from the opposite side. Then use a punch to drive the snapped extractor out of the bolt. Then go up in drill size and clear the whole bolt out of there, get a longer bolt and nut combo to replace it. If you've drilled off center, drill as big as you can go without hogging the hole out in the knuckle, then use a punch or chisel to drive the remains of the bolt sideways into your hole and then out. You can also use a cut-off wheel to go in through the slit in the knuckle to cut the bolt in half, then you only have to drill the threaded side out. You've learned the harsh lesson of bolt extractors, they never work on a bolt you snapped the head off of trying to loosen. They will work on bolts you snap the heads off of trying to tighten, and they sometimes work on stuck bolts if you heat the bolt glowing hot with a torch before trying to extract it. But mostly they're just a waste of time and a much bigger aggravation if you snap them off in the hole.