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This is the day I first bought the GL. Bought it with 375K miles on it. Unsure if the the original motor or trans all I know. Is it is a 4 speed dual range and an EA81.

I'm pretty sure that the threads are cut into a stamped nut that was welded to the sheet metal. I would not try to weld then drill and tap... Unless you are an expert welder and know what alloys to use. There are solid thread repair kits similar to helicoils that I would be inclined to look at. Try a search on McMastercarr.com . If there is space, maybe sneak a regular nut in behind the stripped one?

Hi! My names Ivy and I figured I should start a build page for my GL this way I can keep track of everything at the same time sharing it with all of you!! So a quick background on the car..I originally bought this car for $150 dollars out of Truckee CA, the guy I bought it from was building up a 2 door wagon and this was his daily driver while he built that. When I bought it the brakes made a horrible noise, the volt gauge didn’t work, the shifter has insane slop, no rear wiper, and that’s all I can remember right now. It was 100% stock and needed(still does) a lot of little things to make it all good again. It runs and drives, but like I said needs work.

LOL

Yes but I've heard they don't hold up well. Plus as I said the stock links are so short you can't get much more travel even without the axles.

We did some mockup for more travel with the rear multilink suspension. The limitation in droop is the inner CV bottoming out since most of the lateral links are much shorter than the axle. Made some slightly longer than stock links to get a little more droop. Here you can see it's a couple inches more droop than we had before (old on left, new on right). Full droop: Full bump: This is 11-12" of wheel travel. I need to get longer shafts and bodies for the shocks and make the longer links. I'll also need to stick the top of the shock inside the car. Thought about making a drop mount at the spindle but it's already the lowest point of the suspension. Got a complete multilink rear crossmember/suspension/axles which helps to look at. What's really limiting the rear travel (even with the struts) are the inner CV joints bottoming out since the links are shorter than the axles, the wheel pulls inward at droop. Even if the CV had more travel, the links are getting pretty vertical at full droop and really pulling the tire in. Thought about making longer links, which would probably require making a new rear subframe. Some of the axles we've gotten have 30 degrees of angle capacity at the inboard CV. If you had links about as long as the axles and plenty of body clearance, 22" of wheel travel should be possible. I think the easiest way to do that would be a body lift. For every inch of up travel you wanted to add, you'd have to add 2" of body lift with the same strut top mounts though, the compressed length of the spring/strut is going to be about 1" longer for every extra inch of travel. Also at full bump the bottom of the wheel is about even with the bottom of the body now. The tires get fairly compressed when landing so at some point you'd just start bottoming out on the crossmembers. I already hit the front skidplate on the 1999 Outback occasionally on the face of a jump.

Dudes, look at the post date.... You guys are like 15 years late to the party!

Punctuation is cool. I'd love to help, but I have no idea wtf you're asking.

Fuel hose was a stop-gap until I could get to NAPA store 35 mi away for real coolant hose. Fuel hose was all the big-box auto store had in stock. Adding loops or coils of extra length to avoid cracking works for auto oil pressure lines, production machinery lubrication lines. I was being facetious with 1/4" copper line thing...........;)

Have you seen this: https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/3839-requesting-ea81-ignition-lock-removal-how-to/ ...maybe its helpful... And if not, maybe this will help? Its an EA81.

you know something that bothers me more than not having my wagon anymore? someone else getting the fame for doing absolutely nothing to the car, im the one that busted my butt for 9 months and after many cuts and bruises and a drill bit going all the way through my thumb after the cheap drill bit broke, a Wagon was reborn from the dead, then I sold it because the rust was just too much lol. atleast the car still exists. https://barnfinds.com/3700-obo-1979-subaru-4wd-wagon/

G’day Jared, ”Welcome” to the forum! Cool looking RX you have there. And yes, if it’s got the dual range awd box, this is the only AWD gearbox Subaru produced with a locking centre diff Look after that centre diff, they wear out easy if you don’t run tyres of the same make, model and mileage. As soon as you hit anything that’s a loose surface, lock the diff! You don’t want to be spinning wheels with this box. One trick I’ve heard with maintaining these EA82t engines is to put a small radiator, such as a motorbike radiator, in the turbo coolant return line. The idea behind this is to waste some heat from the returning coolant before it goes back to the engine then to the radiator. I’ve seen this done on two EA82t converted L series over here. Cheers Bennie