Leaderboard

sounds like a broken outer cv joint.

You obviously haven't tried to source heads in the USA. They are not easy to find or cheap. The idea that testing could be more $ than new heads is 1) incorrect 2) if it were correct, would be an argument for running the heads as is and not testing. Save money towards buying heads if there is a problem. it's an EA81 so if you have to pull heads again it's like a 20 min job in car, lol. The only "test" that needs to be done is spray a bunch of carb cleaner into the intake and exhaust ports. Set the heads so that the puddled cleaner is trapped by the valves. Watch for any seepage around the valve seat or from those cracks. If none, or just a wisp of wetness, they are fine. If they drip the valve seat is shot. There is no water jacket near those cracks. They are common, and Subaru has even said they are OK since the 80's. The ones in yer pics are particularly small and benign. This isn't an aircraft motor I assume?

Most has been said. Brakes and air filter should be priority #1 Tie rod end will either be a little inconvenience ranging to a genuine safety risk depending how bad it was. If it was more than just a little sign of wear, they should have refused to do an alignment on it. If you trust the shop to take care of you, it's probably just something to think about in the next year or so. Also possible that they don't care about your safety, or the fact that doing an alignment on a car with bad steering components is a waste of time and money. The leaks aren't an issue, as long as you don't run out of fluids, and don't park on any nice concrete. So make sure to know how to check the relevant fluids (engine oil, transmission fluid, and power steering fluid, in this case), and check them every gas stop. The only exception is if there's a lot of oil getting onto the spark plug wires. Pull the ends out of the heads (should be fairly easy to do that), and look for oil on there. If there's a lot, that can be an issue for the ignition system. Change the rear diff gear oil. I think it's about a quart (have 2 handy) of 80w90 GL-5 gear oil (the most common stuff you can find). Buy a little transfer pump that'll fit on the gear oil bottle. Jack up the car, use a 1/2" breaker bar to pull the 2 plugs (upper fill plug first, if you drain the oil, and then can't get the fill plug on, you're screwed, although if they checked the fluid, they would have just had the plug out). Once the old fluid drains out, put the lower plug in, and pump new oil in the top plug until it overflows. Then put the top plug in and your done.

valve covers are a rubber gasket, & fairly easy to replace. they get hard & brittle over time and just don't seal well anymore. hardest part of the job is getting the clearance to remove the covers to replace the gaskets.

It's odd. I see so many seem to have trouble with the 3AT. I'm heavy on gas. Use the shifter to control upshifts. Got over 200k miles on a few of them before needing anything more than a vacuum modulator. I do run Amsoil synthetic ATF in them.

Dude you sound EXACTLY like the guy I bought my car off of, minus the fact that you know stuff about the platform lmao! My car is actually from Colorado and I had it shipped over here earlier this month! Not sure on a name yet but I'll have the think of one. I can't wait to take her over 200k miles (only about 500 away) then she can enter the second phase of her life haha. And yeah man I'm pumped to be apart of this old community, can't wait to show up at Subie meets and blow everybody's mind with the car they've never heard of lol. I have a friend with a spare EJ22 longblock so maybe I should just go that route lol! Of course the other day I found out the the EG33 will really easily spit flames with an exhaust sooooooo that got me convinced lmao. I agree one the production of this car, everything about it is just absolutely wild and its amazing to think that it actually made it into production! The closest thing I could think of is the Starion which is also on my to-buy list I'm DEFINITELY keeping an eye on that V8 swap some of the things the dude was saying was WILD and for the most part I agree with him. I love performance cars that keep the original feel, So aside from maybe a few small things inside, my interior is DEFINITELY staying as it is. The exterior will have some very slight modifications over time but nothing that would take away from the car. Nice wagons by the way! I would have sprung for a GL-10 wagon since I can actually get those around here but my 240 satisfies my wagon needs right now and its RWD too!

Glad you like the videos. Hope to get some bigger jumps on video this spring. I don't completely understand your question about the struts. I'm not going to give out detailed plans on how to make them since I'm sort of trying to sell them. The fronts have 9" of stroke which gives 10" of wheel travel, the rears have 11" of stroke which gives 12" of wheel travel. Sorry if this comes across as rude, but if you have the ability to make them you probably don't need plans and could just go by all the pictures I've posted. There aren't many complicated machined parts but there are quite a few custom machined parts you'd at least need a lathe to make and I had ten springs custom wound for the front struts. If you look through page 25 of the thread that should give you a good idea of all the parts that go into the current design. On page 4 I posted a CAD drawing of the original inverted strut design, same basic design we're still using.

This is sad. Better idea, sell the RX7!! Seriously though, you’ve gotta do what’s best for you and your situation, even if it makes a few hard board members shed a tear or three Cheers Bennie

Short ebow on water pump top. Thin one under intake from thermostat pocket to the block. Slightly bigger one from back of the throttle body to a tap on one of the heater feed tubes.

Just make sure you type with your pinkies out