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And I’d like to attend another in the future.

reboot them instead of replace them. or get a used one and reboot it.

If you're current axles' shafts are still intact, you can replace the CV cups and joints with inner joints from EA82 or even 90-94 Legacy rear axles. Takes some spring clip pliers and a CV banding tool. BUt it's really the on;y option. This is why I am not wheeling my EA81 wagon right now. Can't find any new axles.

Hey man I hate that it had to go that far, the last thing I wanna do is argue with someone over bogus, especially on the damn internet. When I use the term snowflake it means someone who's sensitive and or delicate, that's all! Not 'acting white'. Not 'cocaine'. And definitely not 'a person who was opposed to the abolition of slavery!

It really is a job for a Hotsy.

Still a work in progress. Not doing any mods which will alter the reliability of my "retirement car". Still to come: Sports Grill, Red JDM "F" emblems, black out chrome.

I think I answered my question about the valves. It turns out that when I last swapped out engines in 1993 I apparently got a EA71 "fat" engine which had the different heads, Hydraulic-vs-solid lifters. also I remember I had to change the bell housing to fit the existing tranny as well as the EGR valve feed from the block.Oh and I noticed that it was a slightly wider engine which I thought was due the change in valves. that and the crossover cooling tubes were gone ( I assumed that Subaru figured out they were a waste of effort as long as you mounted a fixed bladed fan to the water pump and as long as you kept the thermostat controlled electric fan. The last thing that occurred was the timing and distributor did not play well together with the existing Hitachi electronic ICU module, as it was a Nippondenso distributor for a automatic trans and I needed to have it rebuilt to make it play with my Hitachi system. I am hoping that the EA71 fat engine will work well with the new "Holley Sniper EFI system" once I fix the Vacuum advance control unit. It turns out the vacuum retard side of the unit has not been working since who knows when. And I initially need the vacuum advance -retard to be fully functional for the Holley computer ECU to understand the functioning, before I disable the timing control from the distributor. quote from the Holley manual follows: "Holley recommends that those who wish to use the Sniper’s timing control feature first get the engine running without timing control. Splitting the timing control into a secondary process will add very little time to the total install, but could significantly help with trouble shooting, should it be needed. " This means getting rid of the vacuum control unit on the distributor and looping the two vacuum lines back into the vacuum modulator unit at the base of the carburetor and intake manifold. I am hopping that will be all that is needed as I have not been able to determine if the distributor has mechanical advance as well the vacuum advance.

The cruise works. The bulb socket had a little road salt but looked good. I cleaned and bent the socket, still running light goes out with brake pushed on, and then comes back. I switched wires from driver/passenger and it still has the issue. I checked the wires and they look good. With my multimeter and narrowed it down to the spot where the wire should contact the socket, the wire is not connected fully to the socket. I considered trying to solder the wire to the socket. I think I'll go to junk yard and get another set. thanks Nipper and FerGloyale.

And way worse for the engine too! You're engine bay is gonna be an oily nasty mess really quickly.

I've decided not to replace the pistons.. I talked to a guy who used to work at Subaru and now does rebuilds for most independent garages in the area and knows his stuff - he told me to get a new short block, so that's what I did. $2000 for a brand new short block isn't too bad. He said I might get away with just pistons and rings if the bore wasn't damaged, but he always does a clean up hone when he does pistons. I brought the heads to the machine shop and the guy told me that there was signs of detonation and by inspecting the pits on the valve, correctly identified the cylinder that had the piston failure (although I wonder if the distress wasn't the piece of piston banging around). He told me that even though it calls for 87, use 91 octane in the 2.5L Subaru to prevent this type of ringland failure. He also said valve guides are known to walk out so he machines in a retaining clip. This engine does feature a knock sensor, and I'm going to change it. I don't know if the car had a discernible spark knock or not (I'll question my DIL more thoroughly), but I'll make sure she uses high octane gasoline. In any case, there were no lean codes in the PCM. I'll post a follow up when I get the engine together and installed. John

13089AA010

Sockets do go bad with time. I am guessing your cruise control may be angry too. A wheel speed sensor s not happy. Either a broken tone ring or bad sensor, A broken tone ring wont throw a code. Also those codes are not part of the OBDII system so it wont throw any code with a regular reader. Its a common fault mode.

If you get the code, you have to change it. Just get a used one for $30.