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I am thinking of writing Subaru very sternly worded letter. STERNLY! 215,000 miles and I blew a flex brake line. What crap. They just dont make things last anymore

You can take the hinges off your new doors and use the old hinges still bolted to the car. Not fun by yourself, but doable. I was able to do it with a floor jack and piece of 2x4 when swapping complete doors out. Dan

Yep, that is what it was. Even though I thought I was getting the original o-ring reinstalled square and tight with the repaired cap, it still was not sealing perfectly. Some kink unseen or defect in the o-ring was bleeding off pressure. Replaced the o-ring and viola - the pump primed right up to 48psi and it fired on all six without the bucking and carrying on. Higher pressure than I had hitherto seen to date. Also it held pressure once the ignition was turned off, which it would not do before. Not perfectly as there was a weep at the pressure gauge fitting, but clearly on the right track. Plumbed it back to original and letting the spilled fuel evaporate off so I can check it for any leaks. -Doug

Yes will bolt to EJ22 with adapter. Came out of Carbed EA82, 85-87 Subaru GL. Non-turbo.. Year/model range determined by the fact it has no Nuetral switch, and the LO switch is not on the rear of the case and those are 23 spline stubs Be careful not ot let that 4wd selector lever rotate in it's bore. That can crack the pot metal shifting fork in there. The interlock pellets do not like to be compressed when that rod rotates. Might want to pull that rear cover off the top and inspect just to make sure it's OK still.

I know it's frustrating, but you need to clean everything off and find exactly where it's coming from. You've put your hands on a lot of stuff, so it could be any of the things you touched/ replaced, or even something you didn't. If it's bad, it should be obvious once you clean it up. Good luck! Dan

craigmcd, There are 4 drain tubes to the dual sunroof, one at each front and rear corner. The sunroofs will leak water into the headliner if the drain tubes are plugged at the roof or at the bottom where the tubes drain, or if the drain tubes themselves split where they attach to the roof channels at the corners. If the tubes have split, then the headliner must come down to replace them (not a hard job, just very time consuming, and not worth the $1000 the dealership will want to do the fix.) From the top of the car with the sunroofs open, the first solution is to clean the drain tubes at the end of the sun roof channels using an extended air gun and compressed air. One could also use a reasonably stiff wire to push through the dirt plug at the drain tubes' entrance. The front drain tubes exit the bottom of the car between the front fender and the car's body, just in front of the door. Usually they can't be seen unless the front fenders are removed. The rear sunroof drain tubes drain exit behind the rear wheels through the side of the car body. When the rear bumper cover is removed you can see them. As for the tailgate rear lens water leak, pull all of the interior plastic panels of the tailgate to gain access to the tail light mounting bolt nuts (You'll need a 10 mm deep socket on those nuts.) Once the nuts are removed wiggle and pry the lens assembly from the tailgate (you might even have to cut the seal to get it to separate.). Once you have the water removed from the lens assembly (hairdrier), either buy a new seal, make your own from automotive dumdum or plumber's putty. Dumdum comes in 12 inch long string sections (like the very thin red licorice). use 3 or 4 sections and rub it between your palms to make a 3/8 's inch single roll and lay it around the lens mating surface (or do the same with plumber's putty). once stuck to the lens, push it back onto the tailgate and press firmly to get the lens to the same level as your other lens assembly on the other side, and reinstall the parts back on the car. Yes, I have had to fix both issues on subies over the years. Good Luck!

Brats have only 2 doors Bajas have 4 doors. And a pass through from the bed to the cab.

I had this issue with a 2003 Outback. I was able to get a cup of water to drain through it, but after an extended rain I would still have a puddle in the rear cargo mat. Where the rubber tube from the sunroof terminated in the fender area, it is pushed into what looks like a rubber molded funnel with a 90 degree bend out through the inner fender wall. The end of the tube is cut on 45 angle. This was stuffed to the bottom of the funnel and the angle on the end of the tube was a perfect match for the angle of the funnel. That and perhaps a little dirt, would be enough to get the end of the tube to seal closed against the wall of the funnel or at least restrict the drain. Pull the tube back out (up) slightly, or trim the end of the tube a little, so that it does not jam all the way into the bottom of the funnel.

Baja was '02-'06, and Brat was '70s-'88 (I think, I might be off a year or so here or there, also that's in the US market, Brat was made longer in other countries under different names). Yes, they're very different. Both only 4 cylinders. Both were available with a 4-cyl turbo for a couple years. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_BRAT https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Baja

on both my cars, o-rings fixed the problem. don't over-torque the bolt on the elbow adapter , it can break - ask me how I know.

two issues: 1. is there a sunroof? clogged/disconnected drain tubes? 2. there are numerous posts about sealing the rear light assembly

when it squeals (idle it w/hood open, if needed, get a helper to turn the wheel) look in the reservoir for foam/bubbles. The only way that air gets in there is the suction side as mentioned above (quite common to have a bad o-ring) or a bad pump. There's a little investigation going on another forum as to whether debris on the screen inside the reservoir might lead to cavitation. No clear evidence yet. start with mike's suggestion first. If it is determined you need a pump, used is a great option.

The lift kit is on! Just gotta finish extending the steering shaft and shorten the bottom radiator hose then I could drive her.

No need to bust your nut on this one too much. Silverbullet has already done most of the hard work for you. As for Teamendor, they didn’t say they were an Arabian Prince promising all your dreams of resolving this dizzy module issue for a small deposit into their bank account did they? Cheers Bennie

Generic OBD-II live data from any capable scan tool is generally sufficient. There really isn't much except very spotty unverified SSM support through EVOScan from 95 to 2005. For ~2005+ there is RomRaider which generally can be setup for most applications with some effort. But you really don't need much more than the generic live data. Much more important is being able to interpret the data. Knowing what is normal and how changes in sensor data interact with the fuel system. It's all well and good to see a MAF sensor grams per second or a MAP sensor psi / inches of mercury but if you don't know what is normal in general AND what is normal for that engine family - it's just a bunch of useless numbers. Surprisingly small changes in the data from these sensors will wreak havoc with fuel trims, and driveability. And even that's not enough. It is not enough to know what is normal watching some live data. You have to know under what conditions the sensors are important. You really need a working knowledge of the fuel system feedback loop and how this data is used and what sensors are important under what conditions. By the time you figure it out - you can pretty much design, build, and tune your own fuel injection system. The knowledge and experience is hard won. GD

I'm still waiting on parts as well, though I haven't actually paid for anything yet... @Teamemdor What's the word on these parts!?