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Your best video, really enjoyed it !

Broken timing belt. BTW, the valve cover does not need to come off to remove the CAM sensor. but I can almost garanty you it's not the Cam sensor. better bet if you are gonna keep looking into it is to pull the drivers side timing cover. and reveal the broken belt.

Absolutely. I bought a gallon each of the clean/prep products about 10 years ago, and I still have about 1/3 of each left. And I follow the process to the letter (IIRC, wash, rinse, etch, paint). The cleaning chemical should be diluted, and works best when hot. etc. I've never had a bad experience. I was just pulling one of the KYBs off my Celica that had blown after 8 years to send in for warranty through RockAuto, brake backing plates, lateral links, backing plates and calipers still look great (painted at the same time, seen probably 4 winters since then).

If he had swapped all the original intake parts onto it that would have been fine. Nothing wrong with making an engine swap. It just needs to be done the right way.

Well, the mechanic who did the engine swap is no longer my mechanic, as I caught him in a few lies, including tampering with my instrument cluster to disable the check engine bulb because he couldn't figure out the problem causing it to illuminate. So, I don't take his word as gospel, and you're right, his statement doesn't make sense. Your point on not trusting wiring from junkyard engines is well taken, and a hard lesson I've learned, although if I had to do this all over again, I would have just junked the car after the original engine blew, and used the money to buy a different car, but this mechanic assured me replacing an engine was a good move, as the car is otherwise mechanically good and has a solid body. I will never swap another engine in a computerized car with all sorts of emissions crap; I would only do it on a pre-1980 American car. At any rate, I've spent too much on this car to give up now. Aside from the check engine light and idle issues, it runs and drives well, and by a miracle, passed emissions last month, so I don't have to clear that hurdle for two years. Besides being invested financially, I'm invested emotionally, not wanting to cave in from a challenge. If nothing else, it will make me a better amateur Subaru mechanic. Ken

Self tappers used in the slot and bolt trick? I’ve not heard of that. What I did is probably what’s documented in the threads above: remove the tube piece with the ~45* angle bar on it that goes to the lever pivot. Grind/cut a good slot in the tube, perpendicular to the bolt holes so that the slot goes beyond where the holes are. I cut my slot to be about 3mm wide. Replace on the vehicle then drill the hole out to a larger size, this includes drilling the gear selector rod. Have a bolt that matches the hole size. Place the bolt in the hole then do up the nut as tight as all buggery! A lock nut will work well for this job. You’ll feel like you’ve got a sports shifter once this is done! Cheers Bennie

This might fall in the category of anecdote more than you were looking for, but it's fantastic stuff. I always keep it around (it doesn't store well, but you can buy 6-packs of little 4oz cans), and I use it on almost everything I take apart (brake calipers, control arms, etc.), remove loose stuff with a wire wheel on a grinder, and then use their cleaning and prep chemicals. 2 years ago I used an HVLP gun to spray it on the frame of my old 4Runner. Not necessarily. What really convinced me, is there's a company up in Canada that does fiberglass restoration panels for old Toyota trucks (www.toyotafiberglass.com , not the greatest website). He posts progress pictures on a lot of his jobs on yotatech, and he's using POR15 CONSTANTLY. Here's a relatively recent one. Rear quarter panels on a 4Runner. Here's what he found when the original quarters were peeled off: And here's after POR15 on all that inner structure: He gets good money for these jobs, and is booked out YEARS. Here's his show truck, 83 Trekker with a supercharged Tacoma 3.4, and the frame and all running gear in POR15:

not sure about that product specifically, but I think the idea behind the chemistry is to create a layer of iron phosphate. there's this; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rust_converter i dunno anything else, lurking for opportunity to learn.....

Hi Guys, the car is finally all together and been inspected by CAMS official. Just waiting on my log book now. Need to replace the fuel pump and get it on the dyno for some tuning.

Maybe a li'l off topic here, but... As far as I know, Subaru is planning to offer a Big double cab Pick-up Truck, based on the Subaru Ascent, just in the way Honda sold their Ridgeline. https://www.ascentforums.com/forum/9-2019-subaru-ascent-general-discussion-forum/6839-subaru-pickup-based-ascent.html

99 OBW Speedo is a known issue. Either get a replacement speedometer or try the resolder fix https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/770913-post16.html

I'm not sure - but if I had to guess I'd guess the 2005's also have a higher failure rate of wheel bearings. i don't see enough Subaru's to know, but all things being equal (which is nearly impossible now due to age/miles of older stuff) but i'd guess like somewhere in the 90's and earlier fail less often at lower miles than late 90's until now.

Got it - a higher bearing failure ***rate*** is the new norm for *a wide range* of vehicles, not just crosstek's or Subaru's. Plenty still make 150,000 miles without issues, but it's no surprise to see a few early failures like this. For illustration purposes only, these numbers are inaccurate, but 20 years ago let's say early bearing failure happened 5% of the time, now it's 15%. That would mean it's a crazy high 300% failure rate increase but plenty still never see issues either.