Leaderboard

was the fuel pump for sure. Runs like a champ now.

The code is for a circuit fault. It has NOTHING to do with actual detonation. And detonation (no matter how severe) will NEVER set a code of any kind. Bad sensor, bad wiring, or bad ECU. Those are the ONLY causes of that code. And once the fault is resolved the code will IMMEDIATELY clear itself and stay off. If you start the engine and it throws a knock sensor code then the circuit fault is NOT resolved. As to sensor function - the knock sensor is a microphone. Tuned to a specific frequency that is chosen by the engineers to be appropriate for that specific engine - usually this is a calculation based on bore diameter, etc. It generates a voltage signal that is then filtered and interpreted by the ECU's hardware and software. The cylinder responsible for the detonation event is calculated by crankshaft position and attenuation due to distance from the sensor. Detonation results in timing being retarded but will NEVER set a code. A circuit fault will result in a substitute "limp mode" timing map being applied that has less timing throughout leading to a reduction in fuel economy and power but with NO trouble code. GD

It might work, but it's torture for the rear transfer plates. Might wear them substantially. or might destroy them and leave you unable to drive. Problem is the TCU tries to disengage the rear more and more the faster you go, so it will be slipping like crazy any speed above 20 mph or so. I suppose you could cut the wire to the transfer solenoid to go "full lock" mod and splice it back in or install a switch later. I''d just take an axle, a breaker bar, and a 19mm socket, a 32mm socket and a roll pin punch and change it out before driving. Only take 30 mins or less to change.

I added some LEDs from a brand called D20 or G20 and i'm really happy with them. Visibility at night is a lot better.

if you need a good 'compromise' tire, you might look at Pirelli Cinturato . They helped us survive white-out conditions returning from Colorado a few years ago in winter storm 'Ursa' . They are not noisy and work well for us in downpours here in DFW area too. But, if you absolutely must be able to drive in very bad snow conditions, the BEST all-season will never be as good in snow as the WORST dedicated snow tire. tires are full of trade-offs and you must be honest with yourself about requirements - then comes your budget. everyone wants a tire that's ; quiet, comfortable, gives great fuel economy, doesn't overheat at highway speeds, grips good when cold, great traction in rain, great grip in snow, long-lasting, and cheap...yeah, that's not gonna happen.

some cars in the 90s have rusted-through gas tank filler tubes - maybe check for that? not sure how far back in models that could be an issue - the filler is behind a plastic cover that can trap debris /moisture.....

I found a thread by japcs777 about a 96 Legacy with what sounds like the same problem. Title “Legacy makes clicking noise when driving and rolls in park.” Fairytax4me replied: “Putting the trans in park engages the parking pawl to the output shaft of the trans. This only locks the front pinion shaft from turning. The pinion shaft prevents the ring gear on the differential from turning, but it does not prevent the side gears inside the differential from turning. The axles are connected to the side gears. The side gears will rotate opposite of each other. (This is normal operation for a differential.) If one axle breaks, the axles can then rotate and the car can roll away. (The broken one will rotate the opposite direction of the wheel) The rear wheels are powered by a clutch set in the rear of the trans. The clutch set needs fluid pressure in order to engage. It only gets fluid pressure when the engine is running, and the transmission is in gear. When you start driving the clutch engages and the rear wheels will propel the car. When parked the clutch is free so no power can go to the rear wheels. This also means the rear wheels will not hold the car still when the trans is in park. Put a new axle in it and you'll be set.”

I doubt that keeping it stock has any merit. Brat's peaked in value a while ago and then people realized there were no parts available and weren't ever going to be. Prices went back down and have been static now for years - adjusting for inflation they have decreased in value substantially. Regardless, a rebuild kit will not alleviate worn throttle shafts, or the tendency for these to rattle themselves apart. Nor will it give the low end torque of a 32/36 Weber with progressive linkage. Carb heat? Really? That can be arranged rather easily on the Weber. A 32/36 will give the vehicle a new lease on life. It's simple and reliable and parts are available to keep it in proper tune. Take pictures, save all the old parts in a box if you must - for some future where Brat parts are available at every Walmart. GD

Your Brat is nice enough to spend some effort keeping it stock.You will be glad you did in the future. Every joker has a Weber.with one of those cheesy little airfilters and no carb heat. Carter/Weber kits are readily available,if a little pricey.https://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-84-CARB-KIT-CARTER-TYF-MODEL-2-BARREL-CARBURETOR-VW-RABBIT-SUBARU-1800/261466892303?hash=item3ce0a4280f:g:zYMAAOSwvg9XYZ0q Complete rebuilt carbs are about $300 from several sources. http://www.chicagocarburetor.com/carburetors-remanufactured.php?c=124 http://www.nationalcarburetors.com/lookup.aspx?partnum=sub001 The Carter/Webers run fine.I preferred mine over the Hitachi. They have some advantage over the Hitachi w/its vacuum secondary. They allow you to open the throttle completely at low engine speed(like a weber DGV) giving slightly better low to mid range response. Only trouble I recall was the throttle body coming loose from the float bowl. Here is a decent rebuild tutorial https://performancetechnician.com/1988/10/carburetor-clinic-carter-weber-one-barrel/ OEM version https://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-CARTER-WEBER-OEM-ORIGINAL-CARBURETOR-SERVICE-MANUAL-FOR-MODEL-TYF/142680349224?hash=item2138695a28:g:ky4AAOSwM91aeH0n Good luck.

That’s awesome and a blast from the past! Ruby Scoo is still kicking, there’s some new pics around the forum of her doing her thing. She’s no where near the tidyness of your touring wagon! I say she’s “good from afar, but far from good” which is mostly true. Not bad for over 500k km and the amount of off-roading she’s done in the time I’ve had her. Is Gertie carb fed or MPFI? As for gaskets etc, have you checked out partsouq.com? They’re pretty good for genuine parts. I don’t play much with the EAs anymore. I think the last set of head gaskets I did on the EA81 in my brumby were felpro or torquepro - it was a few years ago now so I’m a bit hazy as to what I used Cheers Bennie

Respect your knowledge, but I think you got it backwards. 95 was Dual port 2.2 WITH EGR. It was the MT that did not. 95 AT 2.2 is actually the perfect swap for the DOHC 2.5 since it has Dual port exhaust. I know because that's alway what I ask for when I buy 2.2 for OB and FOR swaps. 96-98 2.2 in AT Legacy/Outback(96 only) cars also had EGR, but are Single port exhaust so not a "Direct" swap unless you swap ex.manifolds. It was the 90-94 and the MT 95-98 2.2 that did not have EGR

Still nowhere near safe. Maybe for an adult on a low speed trail ride. Wearing a helmet. Not for an infant/ toddler child in a car seat. C'mon people have some common sense about this. Subaru made the Baja for people in their 30's and 40's that wanted Brat's in their teen's and 20's. Cause now we've mostly all got kids. Funny though. I went on the Winter Wonderland Gambler 500 2 Novembers ago. Ended up teaming with a group of 3 guys in a Brat. (the AristoBrat) it was called. Classy. These guys where commited. I follwed them and for 200+ miles, one of them was riding int the back. In the cold. In the rain. On high mountain roads covered in snow, bouncing around. On the freeway doing 70. I offered up a warm front seat in my 84 wagon. But none of them wanted to be the one who 'couldn't hang" and they finished the run all 3 together, taking turns in the jumpseat wearing raingear and a helmet. I will have to work on getting my GoPro footage of the trip uploaded. Camera mounted to front bumper, so I got about 3 hours of video following "The AristoBrat"

If you say the Forester is a horrible offroader, why do you want to turn your loyale into a downgradeed body Forester? I mean that's what you would have if you swap all yer suspension? And the GL rear unibody is really not engineered to support the macpherson type strut design of the Forester rear end. You will need HEAVY crossbracing. Seems like you'd be better off lifting the forester. Of course I really can't understand what yer goal is because you write as one unbroken run on sentence. I know you are childishly stubborn about no punctuating ANYTHING. It's very annoying to read your posts.