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gotta tell him that, LOL but yeah, I let it run for a good 15 mins before testing the heat

Start it up earlier in the morning.

That's quite different. If the car is moving, air is blowing between the 2 parts. The heat carried to the manifold by the coolant is far more than that that would be carried by the air drifting between them, even sitting still. The coolant is at maybe 200 degrees. The transfer through the air to another part that is heated by the 200 degree coolant is tiny, if any at all. For the insulation to have a significant effect, you have to change the cooling system so the coolant doesn't flow through the manifold.

ok, update as of less than 15 minutes ago... topped up the radiator - was very slightly low, but not low enough it should have caused a no heat situation... overflow also got topped up just because I turned everything off when I started the car & let it come up to operating temp.. temp gauge rock solid dead in the middle of the sweep. heater temp was still set to 80 on Drivers side, 70 on pass... turned it on, and lo & behold, we have heat, and plenty of it... So.. thinking this is NOT heater core, t-stat or water pump related... electronics perhaps? I dunno, not familiar enough with the climate control system What say you guys?

you mentioned the VW guys love these superchargers, here is a graph of a 1974 with 75hr at about 2750 peak tq. the subaru redlines up near 6000rpm so the response and net gains might be quite different. just saying... the blower on this bug shown below is much larger than the one you are speaking of. some interesting stuff. glad you make this thread. best of luck let us know what you do and if it works for you.

Final follow-up on Grimace: As some of you may have read, I replaced my original (285k mile) transmission that endured years or torque bind abuse with a junkyard-pulled transmission that I grabbed out of an old sedan. When I installed the "new" transmission back in July of 2019, I had issues with getting the car to move in "D" or "3", it would just rev like in neutral. When I put the car in "1" or "2" the car would set off at a slow speed but then slip out of gear and free rev if given more than 1/4 throttle. Being in school at the time, I parked the car and planned to replace the transmission again when a better one showed up at a junkyard. Fast forward to June of 2020, I finished school and free time so I decided to perform a fluid change on the transmission again, just in case that might help, before returning it under warranty. After doing the fluid change the transmission would go into "D" and I would feel a slight lurch, like the car wanted to move. When I pressed the accelerator though, the car just revved up in RPM's. And as the RPM's wound down the car would start to creep forward, but not with any torque, almost like a clutch slipping really badly. After playing around with different combinations, I found that if I had the shift lever in position "2" with the "Manual" button pressed on the shift lever the car would start in 2nd gear with no problem. Once I was going over 18 MPH I could shift the car into "D" and the rest of the drive would be fine. It would shift between 2nd, 3rd, and 4th with no issues once it got past 18-20 MPH. If I put it in "1" it would work fine too, but that gear has so little speed in it that I would just start in "2" to avoid having to shift so many times. After about a month of driving the car like this I replaced the 6-year-old battery and suddenly I could start the car in "D" like the engineers had designed. But intermittently the car would not like starting in "D" at a red light and I would have to shift it down to "2" to get up to speed again. I don't know if that's due to the battery being disconnected and resetting the trans computer, or what. Another idea I had was that I forgot to top off the torque convertor before I shoved it into the housing, and maybe I was low on fluid for a while. And as a final, and sad ending to this story, I will add the newest development... Apparently I got the car up and driving so well that someone else wanted it. That's right, Grimace was stolen from me. After almost 10 years of ownership, and many fun adventures, my car has been taken from me. Its been about 3 weeks since then, so insurance wrote it off as a total loss a couple days ago. Even if he is recovered, grimace is gone from my life. :/

There is also a sensor on top of the AC pulley that is held by one 10 mm bolt (14 mm head) and one 6mm bolt (10 mm head). Make sure the sensor is as close to the pulley as possible. Good luck, Sam

You will need a custom intake manifold if you want the coolant passage to be seperate to the air intake tract, the the manifold as such. On the EJ the coolant is separate to the intake manifold so keeping heat away from the intake is a whole lot easier. Keen to see where you go with this as a matter of interest more than anything. Cheers Bennie

These should be what you want. 3 of them. O-ring Fuel Pipe. Item # 9 in the picture. Subaru LINK

gotcha! like i said. will check into that tomorrow when the snow lets up.. snowing and blowing at the moment and rather chilly out

No problem, I do the same thing sometimes, skip a word then have to read it again. We need to know if coolant is flowing through those two hoses and the heater core.

A few times I just walked into the dealer Parts Dept with the o-rings so they could match them up.

We were asking about the heater core hoses that go through the firewall to the heater core. One or both, cold, warm or hot after a few minutes of idling? With the temp gauge at normal, both of those hoses should be hot. When you said bottom hose, I think of radiator hoses.

@Numbchux and @Rampage - i did mention the hoses.... I personally did not go out and feel the hoses this morning.. He did.. said the bottom hose was ICE cold - car had been running for at least 10 minutes.. maybe 15.. and he was getting NO heat at all - fan WAS blowing, however.. blowing cold air. Climate control was set to 80 he said Again, I am going by what the other half said.. I did not go and check personally, but He is pretty well versed himself, so I think he knows the difference between full, and not full..

Supercharged Subaru engines suck. The engines are too small, and the parasitic loss from a supercharger is too much for them. Every BRZ we have ever tuned with a Supercharger ends up pulling it off and going to a turbo, or selling it. It's not a good idea - they feel like they do nothing till you get up higher in the RPM and then you get a little burst of power before you hit redline...... Especially on the EA82T which is a fragile engine that has no support or parts availability. Superchargers are the realm of big V6's and V8's for a reason. They give a linear power response, are a big parasitic load, and they need an engine that makes a lot of power down low to brute force their way through the drag. You can make a lot more low end torque and control the power output better on a little Subaru engine with a turbo. GD

Very common on any plastic radiator. Highly unlikely for aftermarket to be made of as high quality plastics, but I haven't seen any failures of them yet and have installed a couple dozen.

...really thanks again. I have a gt to bring in now i just done the engine on her but had no issues. Just doing cv shafts on her ...lol I think I am a subaru junkie ..and I'm sure ill be back got another b4 to bring in and check out fun times Cheers

took until the end of the year for one of my posts to actually help someone! glad it's running.

Others here will respond I'm sure, I'm just wondering if this could be an issue with using the correct crank sprocket. It may matter to the ECU how many 'tabs' are on the sprocket for the CPS to detect.

Just got my new 2021 Impreza two days ago. My first Subaru.

looks nice here's mine;

thank you. I have owned a subaru since 2004. Love them!

Link to FSM 05, 08 and 09 http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation After checking above you have to copy and paste into your browser, it won't work by clicking directly on link Link to FSM 90 -2004 www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ Link to all Subaru models and FSM: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru Parts Catalog www.opposedforces.com O.