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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/04/19 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    You unplug the relay to the fuel pump and jumper the two relay connector pins that have the large wires going into them. Test tor power first (while cranking). If you have good 12v and ground then jumper it and crank the engine - pump should run while cranking. There's a lot more to diagnosing the fuel pump control circuit but that's the first step. If it works but doesn't with the relay installed test the relay. If the relay is good then you will have to diag the relay control power and ECU relay ground circuits. You don't really need the pinouts. The big wires going to the pump connector are power and ground. The little ones are fuel level, fuel temp, etc. GD
  2. 1 point
    New to the site, but not to Subarus. Here's the latest, 1989 XT6. Been wanting an XT since they came out. I remember seeing the commercials when I was getting my driver's license. Any other XT owners or officianado's please drop me a line, I'm sure I'll be needing advice or other knowledge somewhere along the way. Got this baby for CHEAP due to a cobbled up fuseable link on the clean battery power.
  3. 1 point
    GL-10 is not turbo, it's a luxurious trim level. EA81s never had a limited slip differential, turbo or otherwise.
  4. 1 point
    sounds like you could use this site: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ you should be able to find wiring diagrams and whatever else you may need.
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    I would say there is very little truth to that. The pump is cooled by fuel and you may get a slight temp rise right at the moment it runs out of fuel. In addition the total volume of fuel in the tank may rise a few degrees as it cycles through the system and passes through the pump more quickly than a larger volume would. But overall these small temperature changes would have little effect on the pump. Once the pumps sucks air the engine shuts down and when the engine is off, the pump is not running. And I've seen thousands of cars that are probably run very low all the time. I have never seen a pump failure I could attribute to this. GD
  7. 1 point
    You really don't need the rubber isolator with the new turbine style pumps. I've installed many right on the metal bracket. They are virtually silent. You can carve up the old one with a utility blade to make it fit as well as possible, and anchor the pump to the bracket with a standard hose clamp. Splice the wires and drop it in. That is assuming it's bad. You can bench test it but that may not tell the whole story - once you disturb the pump they often will work again. So since you are this far you should 100% replace the pump to rule out an intermittent brush contact issue. GD
  8. 1 point
    You can use a generic pump. They come with the connector and the pickup sock. We routinely retrofit high volume pumps into all kinds of cars. Just get a deatschwerks or a AEM kit for an 02 WRX. It will fit fine. GD
  9. 1 point
    Why, you're lucky. Around here, we walk uphill both ways. (For anyone wondering - and those who weren't - Monty Python were ripping off Stephen Leacock when they did that bit - Cleese admitted it.)
  10. 1 point
    Yep. Too bad they're all cores.... These ones work just fine, though 20180610_132310 by Numbchux, on Flickr I might have a problem. Thank Bob my wife doesn't mind.
  11. 1 point
    I'm pretty sure the Gen 1 uses a single 4x6" speaker in the dashboard that uses a pretty standard mounting pattern.
  12. 1 point
    That's precisely what I'd take it to mean. Sounds like it's time to pull that cover and get the old one out and confirm it's dead. What's your plan for getting a replacement?
  13. 1 point
    Okay, go to p.44 of the PDF, titled "13. ENGINE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM LHD model" (it says p.51 at the bottom of the page). There's your fuel pump on the left side of the drawing. Print this page - people who try to debug stuff like this on their phones drive me nuts. As you can see, the connector at the tank is R58. Look at the bottom of the page and they describe it. Pins 1 and 4 are the ones you're interested in, and the drawing says that the positive side (which goes to the relay) is LY (Blue + Yellow) and negative (ground) is B for Black, respectively. Don't ask me why they chose L for Blue; I think it's stupid too. Confirm that those are the wires that correspond to the correct pins. Unplug the connector. Connect pin 1 to the positive (+) side of your battery and pin 4 to the negative (-), and you should hear your pump run. There may be a little spark when you connect it up; as long as the pump is running, don't worry about that. But if you get a spark and the pump doesn't run, the motor may be seized/shorted and you'll start burning wiring if you leave it connected, so unhook it without delay. Be careful. If you short the wires together - even with a battery you don't think is very good - you're going to get some or all of: sparks, heat, melted insulation, burnt fingers, and damaged connector pins that will add to your repair job. I do electronic stuff, so I've got lots of little grabby clippy things around; if I didn't, I'd go to the junkyard and snip off one of those connectors with as much wire as I could manage to give me a "pigtail" connector to do these tests with. How you do it is up to you based on what you have around, how much of a hurry you're in, how close the nearest wrecker is, etc. Follow all that?
  14. 1 point
    Don't worry, you're not going to need any electrical theory - or a mechanic. But you will need the diagram, because that's where you're going to see which pins on the fuel tank connector you have to connect power to. Assuming it's like the later ones I'm familiar with (I've never had to mess with the fuel assembly in my '95), there's a single connector that supplies power to the pump and sends the fuel level information back to the dash gauge, and you can mess things up if you power the wrong pins. Next, what is your power supply? Are you just running wires back from the battery, or do you have something else that can provide 12V at the back of the car for this test? [Edit] Here - go get this: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/1995/1995 Legacy Wiring Diagrams.pdf and I'll walk you through it.
  15. 1 point
    Well I finally did it. I created the Mr Loyale youtube chanel to document my Loyale repairs.
  16. 1 point
    I have used the Ebay ones without any trouble. You can find them here. Ebay EA82 Lifters Try Mizpah precision for rebuilding yours. You can find them here. Mizpah Precision