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just swap in a used engine if you can. search for one in your area at : car-part.com

I just did my wife's Headlights with the Maguires Pictured below, the top two show them just polished (1k then 3k sand then polish) the bottom shows with the "sealant" Its not terribly difficult to do, really. Just wet sand <---> with each sand pad/disk evenly. then wash and dry. then apply the polish. The drill bit is for the polishing part - same method. slow and steady then wipe, clean and dry. The sealant (make sure you have gloves on!) just wipes on evenly by wiping across the lens. Took maybe 10 min each light? edit: they give you more than plenty that you can keep the kit for other vehicles. I plan on doing her tail lights as well as the taillights on my car, too. edit: Had to finish it off with a full wash "Abby" Cleans up so nicely! -Justin

It doesn't work like that. The crank will be trashed besides. We never reuse cranks. 100% new replacement. DO NOT split the block. The skills required to be successful at it are hard won. Without hands on training the first time is sure to be a total failure. GD

Trying to run with the IAC valve disconnected, who knows. I never did that. I had one die, electrically open, and the car would shut off if I let it idle. THE CTS can cause all kinds of crazy drive ability problems, idle all over the place, shut down / stall, etc. It can be bad in a way that causes this, and NOT throw a code. Reason is that it is telling the ECU how cold / hot the engine is, and this information is used to adjust how much fuel is sent in. If the mixture is way off from what it needs to be as determined by the temp, the engine won't run well, if at all. If you have an ohmmeter, you can check it. Run the car until it's at normal temperature. Shut down. Disconnect the CTS - the 2 wire sensor on the thermostat housing. Measure the resistance. Note it. Really helpful if you have a thermometer also, so you know the temperature of the housing. Wait a while, until it cools a noticeable amount, repeat the readings. Do this a few times while it cools to ambient. #1 thing to watch for is the reading is STEADY vs jumping around. Also, it should drift in the same direction each reading. There are temperature & resistance range notes in the FSM. I bought an OEM CTS a few years ago, from a dealer. It was around $90.00. But the previous one lasted nearly 30 years. Not to bad, $3.00 per year.

found the culprit vacum line was torn off at the boot at the firewall thx

https://www.autopartsearch.com/catalog-6/vehicle/nissan-datsun/1986/nissan-pickup/transfer-case-assembly Yeah, I know how rare as hens teeth those are now. BUT, just last week when I posted that row52 there was one in Phoenix AZ. Gone now. Actually there are some out there but you may have to go out of state for Nissan Xfer cases. Don't overlook Nissan D10, 620 trucks.

My lingering suspicion (read: fear) has been that this connects to the crossover pipe, and that I missed it because it's one of the miserable things you have to attach while lowering the manifold (e.g. the coolant temp sensors). But (naturally) I was sure I got everything under there. If you're right, I should be able to peek under the TB just by taking the air box off. Will advise... [edit] Yup, that was it alright. I'd attached the driver's side hose but not this one on the passenger side of the TB. A million thank-yous, gentlemen.

You might even find a 4 cyl 94 Chevy S10 truck one barrel throttle body & make an adapter plate, use a mag pickup EA distributor & lock the advance, TBI harness & 7747 ECM from a small block V8 90-91 Chevy truck. Add a 4 wire heated O2 sensor in exhaust wired to relay power/ign started. Get map sensor, ignition module & coil, etc from the 94 S10. Strip down harness to basics, tie both injector pigtails in parallel. Single barrel, single injector. https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/chevy/432269-working-stock-tbi-harness-conversions-picture-intensive.html There is far more support for modding GM V8 ECMs on forums like Gearhead EFI for remapping the prom. Its been done many times. Data logging first after you get it running: http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?7559-1991-chevy-dually-chip http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/forumdisplay.php?25-Old-School-EFI http://www.gearhead-efi.com/gm-ecm-pcm-conversion/tbi-efi-conversion.html Example, a TBI converted Toyota 4X4: https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/895975-22r-tbi.html And on Binder planet: http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/index.php?threads/toyota-22r-gm-tbi.116623/

hearing gurgling in the dash usually means air in the heater core. it needs to be bled more.

This diagram should help https://www.subarupartsdeal.com/parts-list/1992-subaru-loyale/heater-blower.html?Diagram=722_A1 Check that the actuator holds vacuum. Check the vacuum supply. Make sure the flap is free to move. It would be easier to answer your questions if you put the year/model of your car in your post. Good luck. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/45707-loyale-heater-defroster-repair/

You're Welcome! ... and you gave me an Idea: I'll post this Ideas on the USRM, because the Threads in the Forums tends to fade away with time, but there this ideas could help more people. Kind Regards.