joostvdw

as long as the engine stays cool and doesn't leak it can easily drive 20hr straight (if you keep filling it up with gas I might add...) I drive my XT turbo every other weekend 250miles at 95mph @ 4000rpm and it doesn't mind at all, in fact, it always seems to run better after that...

the heads are almost the same, combustion chambers, valvetrain and all that is the same (cams may be different, depens on donor vehicle) the PS turbo heads have an extra oil passage for the turbo on the backside which can easily be plugged if on a NA engine, the other way around is a bit harder since you need to drill the port or get your oil from somewhere else.

Where do I order one Please, let someone try this, I don't have the money right now to spend on toys like that, but it definately sounds like a solution! And for $90, what the hell?!

it didn't come from europe, in 1995 there was no such thing as a WRX and especially no 2-door version so it either had to come from japan (which is not very likely since it's LHD) or it's swapped OR it's not a 2.2

I think your uppipe/manifold is leaking, either warped at the flanges or a crack somewhere. This wil result in lower boost and lots of strange noises, so check it out.

and we have the hole in the ozone layer to prove it...

your instructor is doing it the right way, because a reaming bit is more precise then a drill bit, so in the end, the hole is more precise. BUT, since you're going to ram a stud through, I think you'll be fine if you just drilled it. Just make sure your new holes are smaller or as small as the original ones, you don't want the studs working loose.

Because RAM askes quite a bit of money for them and if you have acces to proper machines and some heads you can do all this for yourself on 1/10th of the budget. And something else comes to mind, people often do things because it hasn't been tried before, even if it doesn't make sense. If nobody did this we wouldn't be swapping EJ22's in our EA cars now

he ment casting, look at the underside of the head (the exhaust side) and you will see the different styles of "EA82" cast into the head.

if there is lots of rusty flaky stuff in your tank, you can clean that out by filling the tank with petrol and a couple of handfulls of nuts and bolts, then shake the tank around, not too hard, you don't want to put "inverse" dents in your tank, but enough to knock out all the loose stuff. you can then use certain epoxy resin kits to coat the tank from the inside, in fact, you're then making a new plastic tank inside your old metal tank of course, if you can get a better gastank from the junkyard, by all means, do so, but if you have no choice...

it could be a viscious LSD, these only display the typical LSD behaviour when up to speed, it relies on oil being pressurized to be an "LSD"

I think you would be better of with a custom transmission tunnel, perhaps just use one from an 87+ EA82

I cannot quote a sourse, but I recall that the stock cams are the best on turbo engines... hi torque doesn't give enough flow at higher rpm (usually where the turbo kicks in) and hi rpms loose lots of torque at the bottom end and help in the top end but the turbo is already there, so the added bonus of the cams is barely noticeable stock cam is a nice mid-way solution, only thing that might help is increased lift, but that's not possible on the EA heads. again, just heresay, correct me if I'm wrong.

what is so special about these heads? As far as I know, they are "less prone" to cracking (re-design? tempered?) and were only fitted as replacement instead of stock on a car.

if the car doesn't have LSD's it should be perfectly fine just towing it in neutral gear (put the hi/lo selector in hi, you don't want that to slip into gear when driving) towing it in neutral is the same load as coasting down a hill with the engine turned off, which is no problem at all.

I think the ER27 will be fine with 2 turbos and with those coatings, treating and work you're doing to it just be sure to watch your mixture and knock sensor and don't be upping to boost too soon (I know you want to ) When will you be back working on the engine?

I foresee some mad fender flares in your future :cool: any idea how this will effect your wheelbearing lifespan? or is the offset still stock, but with wider tires? (don't think so by the looks of it)

I believe it was the filling of the coil that caused the trouble combined with the mounting position. The older coils had a harder composite material inside, and the newer ones have oil like materials. When these (the newer) are mounted horizontally, the oil doesn't cool enough and the coil fries. The older solid filled coils didn't have this problem.

can't you tow it back with a tow-strap(sp?) if you can find out which side the HG is blown (assuming this is the problem) remove the plugs on the bad side, it should be able to run and drive on the other 2 cilinders, sounds exactly like a 2cv

40 psi is like 2,7 bar right? that's nothing for a car tire, I run mine all day long at 2,5 bar, and when tires are mounted on the rim, they use in excess of 5 bar (that's 70 psi) and are just fine afterwards no, I'm not saying you should run with 70psi in your tires, but 40 psi is no problem at all. Do realize though, if you live in an area where the outside temperatures are higher, your tires warm up quicker and get hotter and thus tire pressure increases, keep that in mind.

and of course the lines to and from the pump and rack be sure to pull the parts from a model with the same type of belt as your current model (either V-belt or ribbed belt). I don't know for sure, but maybe the alt is in the middle on the non-power steering EA82 instead of to the drivers side, so you might want to snag the alt bracket as well. But this is easy to tell if you compare to engine bay shots.

how can the engine be running with no oil pump? the oil pump is driven of the timing belt, so if the oil pump doens't turn, the engine can't run. or are you talking about the water pump?

Almost all well educated europeans speak english, english classes here in the netherlands start at the age of 12 and continue for 6 years, so yeah, our english is atleast understandable anyway, the XT looks good! like any other almost 20 year old car it will need regular maintenance and it will break down, but it's a very easy car to work on (except for maybe 2 hoses that are hard to get to) so if you're somewhat good with wrenches, you're good to go have you already checked http://www.subaruxt.com/forum/ ? there is a FSM (Factory Service Manual) available to download and that's very handy.

If it really bothers you and additives won't clear it, you can always get your hands dirty and replace them for like $6 each and reseal the oilpump, that ought to solve your ticking.

mmm, oke, only thing I can think of is that the jetting you currently have is too big and when you had the vacuum leak it evened it out to a nice mixture. oh, and, when you changed the gasket, you obviously removed the intake and perhaps the carb, check the fuel lines and filter for small cracks, they may be leaking