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ThreeEyedBandit

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Everything posted by ThreeEyedBandit

  1. I built lower arm's for an 84 wagon, they were really easy to build. All I did was right after were the radius rod bolts into the control arm make a cut parrell to the holes, then weld about 31mm diameter tube the direction of the holes and another parrell to the back. Now take measurments for how long the need to be and cut and attach with your favorite method to the car. We used heim joints so you can adjust the caster and camber. Matt
  2. Tony, if you want to see how to wire it in and mount it let me know and I will swing by, it is a easy job. Matt
  3. Tony, If you want a Toyota Tercel Wagons axle next to your wagon I have one you can use/have, I was thinking about using it for a project and now it is just sitting there. I even have the coils sitting around somewere. Why not use a semi-floating rear end using the existing rear sub frame, for fabbing one up of your own? You can even keep the torsions to keep it independant but allow the whole shabang rotate. Matt
  4. Is next weekend the 'Mud Run'? Just cant rember the date. Matt
  5. I have to work saturday but I might be also going riding sunday, so I will be free during the day but not sure what times. Just make up some times and Ill be there. Matt
  6. We are running a Sammi T-Case with the 4:1 Low Range gear set in it, it now will climb a hill at an idle with 31's and either break traction or roll we guess. And also tuck up in the tunnel really nice, all in all a good little package. Matt
  7. Who are you 'sources'? Just curious if they might have any more, I am really digging this idea of using this case. Matt *Edit* Just re-read the post and answered my own questions. */Edit*
  8. Cool, another transfer case and full time. I like the sound of this, the only problem is you need to lift it enough to keep the front diff from hangin down to far. But shouldnt hang up on stuff in the middle of the car, with it not stiking down as much. How much is $40.00 CD over to US Dollars? Matt
  9. take a look at the rubber mounts holding the steering rack into place, I find this often is the problem in my wagon. Try grabbing the wheel in the front and back and see if you can change the wheels idirection, it will be even easier if you jack up the car. Matt
  10. Saturday mike and I get off at 6:00 and Robert has the be at work at 6:00, but sunday after 5:00 should be fine when Mike gets out of work. Matt
  11. Same story here, just name the time and place and I will be there. Matt
  12. Mine gave me good performance for about a year then it all ended with a quick exchange of words and a good heaving. Going to try the MSD Blaster coil next to see how it goes. Matt
  13. Yeah, keep a spare with you at least. My accel took a crap last thursday on the freeway, started to stumble then just died. Let it cool off and it would fire right up. Got to a place were I could fix it and it wouldnt fire at all. Matt
  14. The diff lock will lock the center diff to make the front and rear diffs connected at a 1:1 ratio. Matt
  15. I just took a grinder and leveled out the back of the hub were the stud would hit, and just pull the stud through. It is just a close fit in there but enough room. Matt
  16. Subadoom has had the GCK Axles for around 6 months and has had no problems yet. They are now riding in the front with an 87:1 low range and all that has happened is blowing the rear stubs. Matt
  17. Two of the tabs on the relay are basically your switch, so just wire them up as a switch for the acces. on one side and the power on the other side. Now the other side of the relay is the coil which you wire up like an accessory, so you run V+ to on tab and V- to the other side. If this make no sence I am going to draw up a picture to clarify. Matt
  18. Sweet Should be there. Do you think you might have the stickers ready for this event would love to get some, maybe we should all get together before hand to discuss stuff. Matt
  19. I would go to your local Tool store and get a good quality "E-Z Out", it is a kind of reverse spinning drill bit that has a taper to it. All you need to do is drill a hole in the broken bolt, and insert the E-Z out and most of the time spin it out. Or just get a new Fywheel. Matt
  20. It is the inner CV joint. DOJ = Double Offset Joint Beat me to it this time Matt
  21. On the lower ball joint right above the A-Arm there is a 14mm bolt, take it all the way out and then you should be able knock the A-Arm down so everything is being supported by the strut. Now you should be able to take the inner DOJ off the stub and knock the axle out of the hub and steering knouckle. Matt
  22. I think he meant axle stub as inboard DOJ.
  23. Cool just name the time and place to meet and I will be there. The simple version still looks great and should get lots of attention. Matt
  24. I was wonder what the distance is from the center of the input shaft to the center of the front output shaft? And the distance from the center of one of the two to the bottom of the transfer case? Matt
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