bheinen74

My newest aquisition, 98 RS production number 174, 2dr, 5spd, with sunroof clean title Not even sure what to do, restore keep it stock, put my ej22T block onto it etc, part it, fix it what to do what to do....

Value is affected by much more than mileage. Paint condition and rust, no rust, lots of rust, rot Leaks, maintenance records current, timing belt stuff done etc. Tire condition I would pay lots more for low mileage and no rust. I would pay more for high mileage if it has no rust over low mileage with rust. Pictures are what sell cars..kinda like dating....kinda like food, if it looks nasty you aren't going to eat it. Good luck.

Front diff failure is a nice way to put as "transmission failure" to make it sound less severe. It could simply be a font axle has failed, or if in fact the axles are fine, then it has either exploded gears, broken shift fork, etc. But anytime someone lists Subaru with "front diff" failure, its more likely they are easing the terminology for transmission failure internal.... That engine, is not very good to begin with as well, so plan on spending money down the road on it as well.

or on a 94 legacy sport....i never thought about the chrome bar, i have some of those laying around too. I used existing holes in the car in all 5 mount locations, had to drill 3 holes in the front of the skid, and bend it a little more in a vice to curve the front up.

yeah until i saw the wire nuts.....holy wire nut spagetti..... you NEED to carry a fire extenguisher.....and need to redo that with a jy harness...

it looked like front bumper lights survived.....never seen that to a soob.

looks like a coffin, you getting in that for some sleep? jk, good idea.hope it works nice. I am working on buliding a platform for the back of the BRAT, to pitch my tent onto.......

something on the belt/pulley looks a little strange like the belt is not wide enuf? How does that work correctly?

aluminum threads will give out before the bolt does..

check out http://www.heubergermotors.com/index.htm?sa=t&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCIQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.heubergermotors.com%2F&rct=j&q=herbergers%20subarus&ei=ZnehTcP0GcmY0QHXkN2TBQ&usg=AFQjCNEb2Ght9WjwGrfN6ILrOJBumV1YlQ you will never ever ever ever find a lower price....if you find something better, then SPEAK up to me first...otherwise, there you go. pick your color, pick your options and laugh at the ones who know no bettr.

my legacy SS sits in the garage on it snow tires, probably til fall fall of 2011 i cannot see spending money on a set of summers. instead i will use my brat and the CRX when gas gets to 5dpg......i hope gas gets more than 5dpg....then i will show how good a old Subaru Brat/ CRX is...dpg + dollars per gallon...

when i sell Baja i donate well.....wish me luck. thanks for the updates and work, if we are going offline, just let us know so we know....

with no job, i cant just go buy stuff these days.... i would have bought it, then drove it home.....darn me....need sell baja... ps i dont think i want a turbo swap, due to premium gas price, so N/A is way to think for me on future....if anyone wants low mileage ej22 i can find them but they might cost a little......

and the other day should have jumped on this. sold for 350....only 95k miles..............and see how nice i was...

i saw a post face lift done on a 91 over on bbs it was a 91 rear with 92+front. I myself prefer the 92+ front and rear, its smoother not as squarish in the back for sure...But, the 91 has heritage of World Speed Record, and it has VLSD. Good things on both. As for interiors, i like the black interior 93+ vs 92- gray with suede. to each his own. Werent the 91 the fastest on the turbo models ecu rev limits?

wow, i guess though, if the tophat bearings won't turn, then something needed to turn, in your case, the shock and spring still turned.....wow. scary stuff to come upon.Miles on the car at failure? any warranty issue on this maybe? Post #21 pn page 3, i see you already swapped tophats at some point. maybe this is related? everything a-ok at that time?

like on AWD pirates, the Flotsam and Jetsam section, to "help a usmb'r out, post your free stuff here" like that new possible section. like ^ said, sometimes we have good stuff just would like it to go to a good home pay shipping and it's yours section, and wfc threads.

Pics....

it has 10mm nuts that mount it. You may have found it, the screws you see may be for the cover for it. dont take screws out, you must find the nuts...wofc....watch out for critters. good to have battery disconnected when digging into spagetti you probably don't want to short something accidently.

pull the plastic cover off under the steering wheel. follow the spagetti to near up above the hood pull, not firewall, just up above.......like behind your defrost and cruise switch......

Yeah, but only on a honda.... No, Legacy era 91-94 its up near the steering column, up from where the hood release pull is....wow. and his is an Automatic ( i can see the ATF cooling lines in the pick) so you have the transmission ECU in there as well. The transmission ecu is the one to the right, the ECU is more to the left up there.....good luck a 10mm socket and long extension will aid in getting the nuts off the studs that hold the ecu in place

If timing is off, it may be what is causing your CAM code....and when the engine is cold it may run well enough to mask the timing issue, when it tries to lean out upon coming up to temp (based on coolant temp sensor) it may then report itself as a miss cutting out.. Timing is a good place to start.you have a interference motor, so this needs to be verified by someone who knows what they are doing. Also, mice may have chewed into the cam sensor wiring...little rats is all..maybe get a snake for your car...unless one has already taken up resident for the free mice meal...

nice...The pict of the harness near the battery, it sort of looks like a yellow wire may have been smashed (broken) Your valve cover is very trashy looking, are you sure this motor was in running conditions?

with all your cranking attempts, you will need to charge the battery with a charger. They are not that expensive to get a charger you will use it many times thru your lifetime. And you can loan it out for a fee to neighbors and it will pay for itself...

ej axles should be same length, maybe one joint on one axle is compressed, and the longer one you measure had a joint stretched out.....very easy to get confused....