bheinen74

no they had the indestructable ej22. it had no problems, but then they had to make bigger heavier cars that needed more power so we got stuck with a failed ej25. many people are very happy with slapping headgaskets on the ej25 at 100k. Those people need to recognize the fact that is bad engineering, the ej22 was perfect. no piston slap no rod knock on the ej22 yet people love the ej25 and its rod knock, piston slap, burned bearing and headgaskets. i dont get it. come on Subaru.

correct.. bummer subaru. oh well. plenty of ej22 to retrofit when the new subaru owners start to dump their HG car.

I assume you read post on here and only went to you Subaru OEM for headgasket dealer on this. They do leak oil. about 80k is the expectancy. Nothing the same as prior year leaking coolant or exhaust into the coolant. Yes. the 2005 -2009 leak headgasket oil. this has been discussed. \ too bad the ones on here have not chimed in on this so much yet. maybe cause those cars are not yet the mileage yet. subaru 2.5 is always destined to leak a headgasket. dohc 98 era most often leaks internal, exhaust into coolant. 99+sohc leaks external, they weep coolant. even the 05+, leak oil. no ej22 had this issue. If you want a Subaru that has not had head gsket leaks, stay with 1994 and older stuff ej22. the ej25 is junk.... end of thread/

who did this.?

went back to wrench n go today (120 miles roundtrip distance from house) to help dennis (subiemech85) pull the ea71 out of the 68k mile hatch. I bought the radiator/fan assembly. cost is as: radiator unit price 34.99 core: 7.00 env fee 1.38 radiator fan motor dual type unit price 24.99 core 2.00 env fee 1.00 so 42.87 plus 27.99 equals $70.86 add 6% sales tax... yeah used parts prices are going up big time. at least it only had 68k miles on it. plan to use it on my next ea81 vehicle that has a radiator need. going into the rafters until then.

why? what a waste. keep with the original to the year panels. You are making something that is a mess otherwise. If you need gen 1 parts i can find them if you need gen 2 parts i can find them Why make a mess.

yeah when you go to sell it let me know as well. Love stanley. nice.

someething with the alternator or charge system failed. I had a alternator voltage regulator go bad, and a turn of the key would send the tach needle to like 3000 room without even kicking the starter on. Wipers would move around, even though the switch for them was off....

^ whats up with the shift knob ?

if it has a ea81 engine, no need to ever swap that it will run a bazillion miles.....just somewhat underpowered. I heard Isuzu makes engines needing to be swapped every 25k miles due to well, you can chime back.. Why go and swap put a perfectly reliable engine, it will NEVER go bad, ever, not like your isuzu. Welcome to subaru.

as long as you are okay with it not being a Brat when it arrived ashore here...nice looking all the same.

GSKT CYLINDER HEAD Make: Subaru 11044AA610 2 $ 30.92 $ 61.84 ^those are the latest design as of 8-x-2010....for DOHC GSKT INTAKE MANIFOLD Make: Subaru 14035AA281 2 $ 3.56 $ 7.12 WASH ROCKER CVR Make: Subaru 13271AA051 18 $ 2.52 $ 45.36 don't get 18, i was doing more than one on that order.... GASKET ROCKER COVER Make: Subaru 13270AA062 1 $ 10.76 $ 10.76 GSKT ROCKER COVER Make: Subaru 13272AA063 1 $ 10.76 $ 10.76

do not use el cheapo intake gaskets. good grief.

closer to 500 in just parts, thats to do it right: all oem except t belt kit. HG's valve cover gaskets rear separator cover new metal seal. screws for separator cover (not same screws as the plastic cover) water pump and gasket cam seals oil pump oring roller/idlers t belt spark plugs intake manifold gaskets exhaust gaskets etc. if you have a 5speed, inspection of clutch may reveal additional 250 in clutch stuff.... so then you are talking near 750 and that is not LABOR

I've removed many 100's of handles on all assorted cars. They all have a "c" clip on the backside you need to grab it from the back side and slide it off. screws? on what? or it could be reversed like this:

In this case, a lack of options means less things to go wrong.

the quarter cut is more than we are using. we are going to drill out the spot welds, on both and re-skin the car. Car only has 75k one owner miles and has no mods. Doing it with no bondo, it will be a good car and last that way.

interior baffle plates are different too. I have seen half a dozen designs, all interchange though.

gotta save this already got doors as seen> my brothers car.

anybody done that?

My first suggestion is to thoroughly look over the remaining 99% of the undercarriage, front to back. I would hate to see you go to fix this overlooking other rot too. IF you find other serious rot, then you will have to fix it as well. If you are lucky, this will be the only rot, but i highly suggest digging around other parts on the front too. IF you find more than this, than it will be a judgment call. I have seen people fix rear rust, only to have the front frame collapse and then its a goner.

cool i only want oem stuff. sell the good stuffs, get it running if you can, maybe a good rustfree shell will come up.

Sounds like a nice swap. "60hp and 80tq over the turbo 4-cyl that was in this truck" How much more weight does this swap add? not much, little, or lots more? Sounds like the way to go.

yeah, overall complete, but there is some very serious rot (affecting safetey integrity) in the right rear quarter in front of the wheel where is meets the rocker panel. and in photo 22, thats serious rot. I will buy the gen 2 rollbar, since its not period correct to that one. I would say its good for parts, but not to repair and make safe on the road. good parts car