DaveT

Re check that everything is tight. Switching 2WD to 4WD or 4WD to 2WD may cause a clunk under certain conditions. Maybe from drive shaft worn needle bearings in the U joints. Are all 4 of your tires worn the same? Tires of un equal diameter can contribute to noises when switching.

The head thread was named something like "post apocalyptic head resurfacing "

Gurgling is usually just air. Constant coolant level rising in the recovery = failing head gasket. Not just the temporary rise from normal expansion, which is drawn back into the engine when cooled to room temp. Everything I have seen say no sealer or the like is to be used on head gaskets. Do be sure the block and heads don't have impressions from the fire rings of the old gaskets. Get the Subaru re enforced o ring for the oil channel that suplies the cam.

I know the feeling. I've had to give up a few due to rust getting away from me. But the parts live on in my current cars.

Interesting

I have searched for stainless studs. Never found any with the same pitch threads. I use stainless nuts, and anti seize. Real stainless flanges and washers and lock washers help too.

The problem is caused by the amount of power dissipated in too small of an enclosed space. The common failure is the solder corrode and opens the circuit. You don't need to replace the parts,just re solder. BUT it will just fail again. If a bigger wattage resistor were mounted outside of the clock, it may work indefinitely. The other mod is separate , it just makes the clock more resistant to power glitches.

With 4, I'm sure at least one will be fixed by doing this mod.

I have to come up with a power supply I can get more of. I could do some, maybe trade for parts or something? Most of mine have the same failure.

Around here, these cars are rare. I paid a bit over 3k for a loyale wagon 4wd wi with no rust not long ago. Plus had it shipped a Ross the country.

Make sure your alternator is actually charging the battery.

I don't see anywhere in previous posts where you used an ohm meter to test to locate the short circuit... To use an ohm meter, you have to disconnect the battery.

Here is my fix for the clocks - Replace the Zener and resistor with a switchmode power supply. The original resistor has to dissipate almost 1 Watt. In an enclosed space, where the sun can heat it to over 120 F ambient. It runs so hot, it oxidizes the solder. The second part, is adding a diode and capacitor to the always on line that keeps the clock keeping time when the car is off. But any glitch in the power can reset it to 1:00. The capacitor holds some power to keep it alive for a short time. The diode stops the energy from the capacitor from going back into the car electric system if you remove the battery, or use the starter.

I that one is the alternator main feed, ignition switch main feed. The output of the alternator may be shorted. Disconnect the battery. Connect an ohm meter to the white wire & ground of the car. I expect it to show a very low number of ohms. Unhook the white wire from the alternator. If the ohm meter reading changes significantly, that may be the problem. If not, pull fuses, dissconnect harness connectors. See if you can find something that changes the reading.

Just a wild guess, but on the driver side where the fuse box is, there is a LOT of heavy wires, power distribution. i would be a decent place for a mouse to make a nest. They usually go for the HVAC system though, and cleaning that out is NO fun. The harness from the fusible link box is mostly visible under the hood, so you can check that fairly easily.

Intake leaks, yeah, that would mess things up. Extra gasket thickness, yeah, they would loosen up. Be careful with torque with anti seize. I have found it usually lubes better than what the manual recommends when torquing. Which can lead to stripped threads, or stretched bolts.

Made another attempt at removing this axle from this diff... Man, that is stuck. My Dynahoe 190 is not a small backhoe. This is a spare. I'm not sure what else to try, or just give up on it.

The regulator I used is an LM22674MRE-5.0NOPB Because I had some surplus scrap from the place I work, with these built on board. The actual clock has the main power at 4.5V so I put a diode in line with the output to drop the 5.0V down a little. The clock main current is a little over 100mA. A switcher that can deliver 150mA to 500mA should be workable. Too light of a load tends to make them unstable. And the one I used fit inside the existing clock case.

Nothing to loose checking the intake and the throttle body gaskets & seals. But with black in the recovery, repeated over normal temps. Constantly small amounts of "air" in the coolant. I bet the headgasket /s are failing. It may slowly get worse. Maybe a few days, maybe a few months. Voice of experience, more than a few times.

What I would check: tee in a fuel pressure gauge. Measure voltage at fuel pump while trying to start and run. Rig a temporary way to power the fuel pump - run wires from the pump connect or to the battery.

Will it run if you hold the gas pedal down a little?

Could any crap have been left in the line to clog the new filter? Even a little water can interfere.

Could any crap have been left in the line to clog the new filter? Even a little water can interfere.

Could any crap have been left in the line to clog the new filter? Even a little water can interfere.

I'll see what I can do while I upgrade the next one...