DaveT

I just looked at one of my spare engines. You might be able to do it without removing them - But you have to remove the idler / tensioner for the belt that goes under the pump. If you put the engine in the position for installing that belt before you loosen it, and pop it off the pulley, you should be able to get it back on correctly. I just never bothered, having done the belts countless times, it doesn't bother me. How many miles are on them?

I think gear lube rated for LSD just has some additive / characteristic for the friction / clutch parts that make the LSD function. I don't know of a reason that it would hurt a non-LSD diff.

these engines are made to turn high RPMs. It's not a problem for them. It's why they have the double valve springs. Lugging them down [too low RPM with heavy throttle] is not good for them.

To replace the water pump, you have to remove the plastic covers and the timing belts. I would replace the pump also. If stuff got hit that hard, and the fan won't come off, something's messed up with it. Who knows if the seals and or bearings are still good.

I've been using Amsoil Synthetic gear lube in them since 1988.

I have been driving 3AT loyales for many years. Normal to be 4000rpm at 65 mph.

Could be intake manifold gaskets leaking into the intake. Also the gasket under the throttle body. It is odd in my experience that the recovery bottle level is dropping - unless you wait until the engine is cold

It may also stop the sensor from working as it is an insulator. Just be sure to check.

The easiest way I have removed the intake manifold bolts is to run the car until it's up to normal operating temperature. Then shut down. Immediately remove the bolts. If it can't / won't run, heat gun and a space heater to cause the same effect.

I'm curious to see what you find. I've read about this stuff various times over the years. I have a big electronics & science background, and fall more in the 2nd group. Most of the sites I've read about it, turn out to be someone trying to sell stuff, or someone that doesn't really know what they are talking about. For those who are running some variant of this, I'm not questioning that something you have done has made a difference in MPG, but why it's different.

I recently bought a 1993 Loyale. I've had to do a bunch of work to get it ready for daily driver use. Among other things, I discovered that the heater core tubes were crushed by someone overtightening the hose clamps. I did not want to remove the core and replace it with one of my spares. I used my 1/4" drive deep sockets to un crush them. Put a little grease on the biggest one that wuldn';t slip right in, and tapped it in. Had to use channel lock pliers to pull it out. Turning the socket with the ratchet simultaneously helps. Once I got to where the next bigger was too big, I used brass shim stock to gradually get as far as possible to original ID. Place the shim in the pipe, then start the socket. I decided that since the tubes had already been crushed, it would be good to reinforce them. I found that sweat couplings for 1/2" refrigeration tubing are very close to the correct size. I had to grind them down on my belt sander about .010. Put a little grease on, the tap into the tube. Took a while, this is a job for patience and being careful, but still far less time than pulling the dash.

Then use the spring compressor to safely unload the makeshift clamp / strap. Be very careful, lots of stored energy there.

If my strut spring compressor wouldn't fit in there, I'd put the cat on the ground, use chain or straps to tie the coils in place. At least on 2 sides. Then jack it up. Depending on how much wiggle room to get it out then remove things mentioned in the post above.

If you remove the a,le, you can see the seal. I have not done one of those yet... but I have replaced seals in similar situations. I've done it 2 ways. Either drill or punch a small hole in the seal. Screw a sheet metal screw into the hole. Pry on screw to pop the seal out. If you choose drilling, be careful about chips and slipping too far in when it breaks through. If you choose punch, be wary of pushing the seal into the case. It likely will only move in until it hits the bearing, but I am not sure of the design of this part of the 3AT.

The lowest speed resistor often fails on it's own. Anything that would block airflow over the resistors would accelerate their failure.

I've thought about adding a 5 point also. Be curious to know how it shifts the risks.

On the older models - Loyale and back - the front drive and the rear drive do not have a center diff, so power goes to at least 2 wheels - 1 front & 1 rear, even if you are on ice. Somewhere [manual or shop manual] I read that some models had limited slip diffs.

Oh, yea, sorry, I am asking about GL / Loyale EA82 wagons. It sounds like you are saying they went to the DL style meter in the 1993? My 1990 FSM does not show anything for DL. Only GL / Loyale with meters. I'll have to check my 1986 FSM to see if they have DL schematics...

Hi, I'm looking for the schematics that would show the wiring for a 1993 4WD wagon - specifically, the harness between the engine and the combination meter. The 93 I bought from CA has only a oil light and no voltmeter. I have a few combination meters from my previous cars that have oil pressure and volt meters. I have the schematics for 86 and 90 versions, and also have a 92, and they all have the gauges. It would make it a LOT easier to retrofit if I can find the schematics for the 93.

My guess - intake gasket. Also, possible the weird o ring between the throttle body & intake. But most likely, the intake gasket/s

offer to pay the difference in the insurance price?

Bumper bolts I use a socket wrench, with a 6" extension. The crunched side, yeah, might be tough. I'd pull the radiator to be able to work on the bent stuff easier, and to check it.

GL / Loyale = no airbags. One reason I like them.

Here's the hitch I made: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/hitch.html

Sounds like the solenoid may be the problem. I've always driven my 3ATs using the shifter to up shift when I want it to, because even when working normally, they up shift too early for me.