DaveT

I'll have to investigate TPS soon I think. I see others having trouble with them, it's just a matter of time....

Good job. That's the first time I've seen or heard of the ECU causing this problem.

Propane has less energy per charge than gasoline. EA81 or EA82 engine? Anything you do will reduce the reliability. Cost a lot. Take a lot of time. To get small gains. Parts are rare, and getting scarcer. Install a 2.2EJ engine. A lot of work, but real gains in power and reliability in the engine. And parts are still available. 40% HP increase may not be good for the rest of the drive line, but many have done it.

The vacuum modulator on 86 and up 3ATs is just round, no hex flats. I just use a pair of channel lock pliers to loosen them. Again, I only know 86 and up - on these, there is a switch that the gas pedal trips if you are floored or very near floored. Called the kick down switch, it delays an upshift indefinitely, or triggers a downshift if you floor it and there is a lower gear to switch to.

Slipping is more likely a band or clutch wear. Governor is part of what decides when to upshift. The modulator is on the side, down low. 1 vacuum line to it. Also helps with the decision about when to upshift. Speedo cable screws in on top of the 3AT

Need pictures... I have one removed from an 86 or 88 3AT not sure if they would be different.

As far as compressors and sitting... The pulley is mounted on a double race ball bearing. It freewheels. When the clutch is energized, the compressor rotor is engaged to the pulley. The compressor rotor is connected to the flat plate with the 3 tabs sticking off of it that are for the safety [seized compressor] cutout. That is what you want to turn to see if the compressor is stuck. You do also want to spin the pulley to check the ball bearings, but that's a lot easier to fix than the internals. Sitting shouldn't hurt them, there is refrigeration oil in the Freon loop, and it is circulated through the system. Sitting outdoors, in high humidity, and wide temperature swings, with open lines, well that could cause problems.

I've seen one. Iirc, from reading the forum for years, they seem to fail a lot, so if yours is working, you are lucky. Always be on the look out for a spare.

yep, that's what I was thinking about. There should be a green set and a white set of single pin connectors for diagnostics and reset. they should be near each other. Leave them disconnected for now. Read the blinks on the LED under the steering column for codes.

The only way I've ever seen or read about the fuel pump cycling on off is the diagnostic connectors being connected. Note - there are a few green connectors, are you sure you found the right ones?

I drive one of mine nearly every day. Keeping a close watch on the cooling system condition is #1 thing to do to avoid problems.

Yes, I built my roof rack with aluminum and used stainless hardware. Sometime later, when to check or modify, and yikes, bolts were very stuck in holes. Investigated a bit, and yes, it is a thing, bad combination. I re did the thing using anti seize, been Ok since. I didn't go to steel in that application, to avoid.rust stains on the paint, but on an engine, that's not an issue. The strength and expansion rates are. The anti seize solves the stuck bolts problem on the engine.

My preferred way is to have a spare engine. Rebuild / recondition / reseal as needed, while I limp the car along. Swap engine over a weekend. Like GD wrote, if it's not knocking, The most it probably needs would be rings. You could just reseal from the head gaskets up, and let it burn oil if you don't do lots of miles. I just would not expect any used engine you find to be ready to run without a reseal, as they are over 30 years old. It might be better than what you have though, since it sounds like your engine has had multiple overheats, it needs head gaskets.

Any EA82 you find will likely need a reseal, from the headgaskets up. And you also get the unreliability of the timing belts. You would also have to find a carburetor one, as the spfi swap is a major rewiring project. As long as the engine you have now hasn't been so severely overheated as to wreck the bearings or rings, it sounds like it needs a reseal. Does it make any knocking sounds?

My first hand knowledge is from 86 through 93.

My 92 and 93 have it. They also had the annoying motorized seatbelts.

On the last models of Loyale, they made a solenoid interlocked with the brake pedal that prevents the shift button from being pressed / lever from moving. I'm more likely to disable the "feature" since my 87 is identical, and does not have this interlock.

Oh, 1/4" thick would be enough. Be safer to go 3/8" . If you need more torque than that can handle, you'll probably need to go with my custom air hammer bit to break it loose. It is difficult to get enough force holding the socket engaged with the nut when large torque is applied.

Mine has gotten intermittent. Soon I'll be digging into it.

It's a rubber grommet. Try a good hardware store.

Heat it up with a space heater and a heat gun before you attempt to remove any more bolts. Get it near normal operating temperature, it makes a big difference. When you reassemble, use anti seize compound. I would not use stainless steel in an aluminum block. The electrolysys and corrosion that occurs is worse than steel.

+1 what czny wrote

Weld a nut to the end of the broken bolt. Need a skilled welder. The heat will also loosen it up. Carefully unscrew as soon as it is not glowing. Other tip, for future repairs - before attempting to remove any of these bolts that have never been removed, get the engine up to normal operating temperature. Then carefully begin to work on the bolts involved. Makes a huge difference in getting them out successfully without snapping them.

The only way I have removed an EA82 model's windshield successfully is to use one of the lower note guitar strings from an electric guitar. The ones that have a second wire wound around the main single strand. Cut all the windshield glue you can away with a razor knife. Poke the pointy end through the windshield glue. Once you get it through, attach steel wire to each end, and add a couple of sticks for handles. Saw it and guide it around. It is a real workout. And you have to be careful, as you can break the string. I tried a tool before, it had a L shaped blade on a handle with a short cable and 2nd handle to pull with. It had 2 problems. One, I am not strong enough to pull it single handedly in some of the positions required , and the other, is the blade was too thick, and it cracked the windshields I tried it on.

Might be better to try the newer generation sub forum, since this is an EJ22 related problem.