johnceggleston

i may be able to get one for a 96 lego, but the car is up in the hills covered in snow now and it may be a month or so before i get to it.

shipping maybe, but tax is in addition to the price of the part.

i'm in the oem camp. i looked at o2 pricing recently and studied bosch and denso from just one vender online. i do not remember which brand was more expensive but one, bosch i think, was more across the board than the other. they were both less than oem. but here is what i found interesting. both denso and bosch made a "regular" class o2 sensor and a "super" class o2. the regular class items were around 50$ - 65$ while the super class were 75 - 90$. this info is from memory so the prices are guestimates, but an 88$ super class o2 is only ~12$ less than oem. i assume that a subaru oem o2 is a super class sensor. any one have any idea what the difference is between regular and super class?

did you pay some one to do it last time? they may not have filled it all the way.

oem online is ~100$.

the head light bulbs are accessable from the back side, turn signals may be the same, i haven't done one yet. polishing the headlights to brighten them up is pretty easy and you do not have to remove them to do it. (the covers do not come off but the housing is removeable if you really want to do it, but not necessary.) you can search for 'polishing headlights' or restoring or the similar. auto parts store sell a kit with all you need ~$20.00, i think. the pieces parts can be had for less, but the kit has it all in one place for one price with instructions.

comparing this pic to your first it seems to be "more" seated than it was. does it look that way to you? you are there after all. what does the ruler say? now that you have done it once, try it again. being able to seat it every time you try should relieve some of your fears. i found it easy to do once i knew how far it had to go.

very hard to tell but i vote no. compare to these pics. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81925&highlight=TORQUECONVERTER

of course this is possible, and given the symptoms maybe even likely, but i have never read about it here, and more often than not, compression problems like mentioned above, especially when they are on the same cam, are timing belt related. bent valves?

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=895308#post895308

this came up last month and i do not know the answer. i think you are correct since the rear sensor is primarily a monitor only, it just reports that the cat is there and working correctly. but that aside, there are now 13 threads with p0141 in it, all but one of them was posted in the cold 6 months of the year, most dec - mar. there is a chance that this could be an electrical connection corrosion problem. maybe due to salt on the roads. especially considering it is reported as a "circuit malfunction". i'd check that first. any chance you live in the snow / salt belt?

awd / tcu info. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=905699&postcount=9

IIRC 90 - 95 ej22 is dual port 96 - 99 ej22 is single port 96 - 99 ej25 is dual port your engine is probably a 97 or 98 swap, or at least a head swap.

rear extension housing w/ transfer clutch and duty c solenoid duty c

uh ...... swap them back? are the part numbers the same on the units? did you swap the ECUs?

i've never done one, but i remember reading something about an arm? bolt that is a real bolt breaking bear to remove due to rust?. so the general consensus was to leave the arm? on the knuckle and disconnect the other end of the arm from the frame? anyway, some one should know for sure. good luck. edit: maybe not in florida.

the speedo gears are plastic and in no way will they effect the way the trans works or damage it. you just will not know how fast you are going. and with out the front speed sensor, there is a good chance you will not have AWD.

i used to do remove the lower control arm but now i prefer removing the top strut bolt and loosening the lower one. you can use a cold chisel to mark the bolt head and the lip on the strut bracket so you put back the same way it was before you started. this is way easier than messing with the stuff below the knuckle. i don't know if they still do, but i remember hearing that mwe would give a price break to board members. free shipping or no core or something like that. worth asking about. re-booting a used axle ends up costing me more than 50$, next time i need one i'm call mwe and see what the final cost is after it is all done. napa re-man ~95$, i think.

i routed mine down behind the side trim piece (pretty easy), under the floor piece on the left side of the cargo area (easy) and leave it in the spare tire compartment. when i need it i feed it out the hatch, flat, with no problems. this keeps it out of the weather 351 days a year. are you going to use a tow dolly or a tow bar? have you picked out a name yet? ps: i hope Blu is terribly unhappy with his little brother, gets jealous and sits in the driveway pouting and weeping oil. so much so you have to sell me this little justy just to make Blu happy. i am envious.

the 98 GT has the same final drive ratio as the 96 - 99 GT auto trans and the outback 96 - 99 auto trans.

i'm impressed, i never would have thought it would matter. thanks for the info. so an outback TCU from the late 90s would be best.

i've never heard this, but i guess it could be. it would be much simpler for the tcu just to compare front and rear speed info. if they match do one thing if not, depending on the degree of difference, do another. if one goes out then default to NO awd. how would the rear diff play into it and mess up the AWD? thanks.

AWD basics (for US auto trans), maybe it will shed some light on your situation. the trans fluid pressure causes the awd transfer clutch to engage the rear wheels and the pressure is regulated by the duty c solenoid. no pressure, fuse in, (all fluid pressure is dumped off) causes FWD. full pressure, not regulated by the duty c or a bad duty c, causes 4wd locked (this would include torque bind in tight turns on dry pavement.) if you have awd drive for a bit and then you do not, something is changing, obviously. either the fluid pressure is bleeding off somewhere or electronically something is telling it to. there were / are some old posts in torque bind threads that talk about ''worn leaking housings or something or other" which would cause AWD problems but i didn't pay attention because it didn't apply to me. and i assumed the leaky what ever caused torque bind, but i don't really know. i guess it could cause no fluid pressure and therefore no AWD, i guess? the Tcu compares front and rear speed / sensors to control the AWD and regulate the duty c. the rear sensor is a very simple magnetic pulse type thing very very similar to the abs sensor on a wheel or a cam sensor. the front sensor is only slightly more complicated, but it sends its info to the speedo which then sends it to the ECU & TCU. you should have a cel if either one is bad. if the front fails the ecu will use the info from the rear to operate the car. but again you should have a cel. front speed sensor (vss2) should be readily available for pretty cheap at parts yards and easy to replace. but if your speedo is working i do not think it is bad. if electric info to the tcu is the problem it maybe could maybe be bad / dirty connections from the speedo cluster to the ECU/TCU... but who knows. if the rear speedo sensor (vss1) is bad it too is easy to replace but you have to splice the wires, there is no easy wire connector. the tcu is also easy to replace, challenging only because it is under the dash, drivers side. late 90s, all of the circuit boards are the same and will plug in, but some have a different mounting bracket on the case (95 to 96 i know there is a change). but you can swap the boards in the case and install what ever year you have around. but the closer the new is to the old, the better. outback to outback is good, a gt may have different shift points then a lego. the tcu is a low labor try at a fix, but i'm leaning towards a fluid pressure problem in the rear extension housing. but that is more labor and parts, more money and more risky if you are not sure. for those who know more, could the transfer clutch discs work / grab and then fail in a matter of a minute? every time you start the car?

did you make sure the flat spade like cable end was aligned with the slot in the speedo gear end.? maybe try fitting a screwdriver in there and turn the wheel by hand.

alarm system? remote entry?