johnceggleston

this might help, it sounds good: http://raleigh.craigslist.org/pts/4029492401.html Subaru 2.5 engine - $350 (Wake forest) This engine was pulled from my 99 outback about six months after I had a new not used engine put in I paid 1800$ for it and had only put about 15k miles on it when I was rear ended and it totaled the car includes all the accessory , alternator , power steering pump ac compressor etc it ran perfectly and was never run hot call 919-622-7197

cats dad, you are not helping us. probably a typo, but part of this is wrong. there is no ej22 DOHC engine. again , a typo? but this makes no sense either. but if you are using the 99 ej22 engine to go into a 99 outback, you are going to have issues. he chose the wrong year ej22. you want an ej22 from 95 - 98 w/EGR. either swap one of those in, or swap in the heads , intake, crank sprocket, and cam sprockets from a 95 - 98 ej22 with EGR onto the block you have. but if you want to try and make it work, try gary's suggestions.

1/ do a search for ''torqueconverter'' and read the oldest first, posted by me. you need to make sure the TC is fully seated before you in stall the new trans. failure to do that will kill the trans oil pump, $$$. it is not hard to do , you just need to know it is needed. 2/ if the oil separator plate on the rear of the engine behind the flex plate has not been replaced, do it when the engine is out. it is the only seal you cannot do with the engine in the car. (oil pan would be another but they do not usually leak. rear main usually doesn't either.) i have never pulled both together, but i here it can be done if you can lift it high enough. so i would probably do them one at a time, but others will know better. good luck.

i would not bother swapping just the VSS in the speedo head. just swap the whole thing. and if you are worried about the mileage on the odo, just change it. it's not hard.

grasshopper, 00 was the last year for the ej22 and that was in the impreza. 99 was the last year for it in the lego.

i have not done a speedo and / or a cable 90 - 94, but i'd be willing to bet that the speedo is easier to replace. i know you can replace one in a 95 in less than an hour. when you do the cable , i would try and lube it before install.

BTW, i had an ej25D that had an excessive oil leak from the rear. turned out to be the rear main seal. but not the seal per se. there was WAY too much end play in the crank shaft so the seal had no chance to do it's job. so check the end play when the engine is out. but probably not your issue. good luck.

i'm pretty sure they have used the same rear main seal since 1990, maybe before. yep, starting in 90 with the ej22, right up through 07 in the tribecca 3.6L engine. Oil seal, 806786040 http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/806786040/ Cover-oil separator, 11831AA210http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/us_s10/type_13/engine/cylinder_block/illustration_1/ good luck

grossgary is near morgantown, wv. send him a PM.

by 01 they are metal again and they leak less often. check it first.

what parts are you going to swap over? make sure the torque converter is FULLY seated, before you install it. failure to do so will destroy the oil pump in the trans $$$. search ''torqueconverter'' and read the oldest first posted by me. what are the trans ID numbers on the bell housing at the starter? are they the same? they start with TZxxxxxxxx and have 10 characters. what year, model, engine, trans, miles are we talking about?

the proof is in the pudding. if it is just a resistor, it will turn off the CEL, it is not going to improve how the car drives. iif it drives better, then it is working.

if the cable turns when the wheels turn, i think it is more likely that the speedo head (w/VSS) is bad. replace it. they used that type 90 - 94?, in the lego. i know the 95 lego did not have a speedo cable.

the hood will bolt on no problem. the grille will require the bumper cover as well, unless both are outbacks (maybe GT). the L grille is a different height, and therefore the bumper is different to match.

if the wiring in the 99 is the same as the wiring in the 98 (no changes made that year?) then yes you can swap the ecu and it will run the car with out codes. but that does not guarantee that the monitors will set up. plus when you pull the ecu and remove power it will reset, clear codes etc. you'll be starting from scratch. but even if they made a minor change that year, it should not keep the ECU from running the car. it may throw a phantom code, saying you have an issue when you do not. i had that hapen when i put a 97 obw ECU in a 98 obw. i got codes for incorrect purge flow and a traction control issue. my car did not have any traction control equipment so no possibility of that code being valid. and once i put in a 98 obw ECU both codes went away. i feel like i remember one case where the trickle power wire to the ECU that kept it ''alive'' when you turn the car off failed, and the ECU would reset when the key was off. i think i remember that, but i don't know what year had the problem. worst case if you swap the ecu is it does not help and you have to swap back.

first, a drain and fill on the trans should only remove 3.5 - 3.75 qts. maybe a little more if the front end is up in the air, but not much. and the 3.5 qts is only about 1/3 of the total fluid in the trans. 3 drain and fills will remove most of the old fluid, but not all. a fourth d&f will only remove a little more of the old fluid. and finally, the hot and cold markings on the trans dip stick are with the engine running. hot markings for hot ATF, and cold for cold. the difference between L and F is about a pint, not a qt. the dip stick is hard to read, check both sides. after you remove it and wipe it down, WAIT before you re-insert it. give the fluid in the dip stick time to drain back into the trans. most folks have trouble with the dip stick reading, full when it is not.

a $1500 car..... if it has wheels it is worth it. but ocei is right, you need to make sure it isn't going to cost you another $1500 to get it running , on the road, and inspected. you'd be better off buying a $3000 car. and as all used car buyers know, you WILL spend money on it to get it ''right''. but hopefully a little at a time, over time. ALL used cars require some amount of repair or improvement. so be smart, and don't spend your entire budget on the car. save some back for oil, plugs, wires, air filter, ..........

PS: there is a small, 1 -2 inch diameter ??, roller cage needle bearing somewhere, don;t loose it. and try not to mess with the parking brake pawl on the trans, near the bottom. it has a spring attached and with the rear open one or both can slide off on to the ground. i would look at it as soon as possible so you will KNOW how it is supposed to fit together. i do not know if having the trans in N is better than having it in P, but i think N is more at rest, relaxed. i don't know if that is better or not. sorry.

what you HAVE to do is remove the rear extension housing on the rear of the trans. if you can without moving the exhaust, have at it. lowering the back end of the trans makes it easier to reach the top bolts. one wire on the rear housing, remove the bolt and the speed sensor, passenger side, and let it hang. the o2 sensor wire will probably free up when you remove the bolt on the corner with the keeper. start with a putty knife, then a thin blade screwdriver. eventually it will break the seal. and it is full of fluid. when you pull the drive shaft and lower the trans, fluid will likely pour out of the output shaft opening. be gentle with the trans end of the drive shaft. you do not want to damage the out shaft seal. you might drain the trans pan as well, before you lower the rump roast end, and then catch the extra out of the rear. if you catch it all and measure that amount, you will know how much to add back. reading the dip stick can be a b1tch. just 2 bolts and the wire connector. the duty c sits on top of the valve body. the last one i bought came as an assembly, but without the needed gaskets. one gasket goes between the trans case and the valve body, the other between the valve body and the duty c. no sealant needed, just paper gaskets. seal the housing back onto the trans with RTV ultra gray. there is a paper gasket out there, but mine did not have one when disassembled, so i used the RTV. DO NOT pinch the wire when mounting the rear housing. i have only heard of this happening once, but...... the clutch discs and spacers in the drum should be held in place with some tension and should not move. but if the do, just make sure all the teeth are lined up so the drum on the trans will slide into the drum on the rear housing, or vice versa. good luck.

the hard / no start could be the ECTS, the 2 wire temp sensor on the crossover pipe under the intake manifold, passenger side. if the ECU thinks the car is cold when really it is hot, it will / may not start. +1 for thew cheap ebay knock sensor. if you are in a hurry, i would buy one in the US not one coming from china. there will only be a few dollars difference. the ''press the gas and no go'' is a puzzler. i have a similar problem in the mornings before it warms up. i'm thinking , dirty something. i doubt it is mechanical, like a cable, or the fuel pump, but that is just a guess. i'm going to try seafoam, just for grins. i did plugs and wires last year and cleaned the MAF. maybe the IAC ??? even so it acts like a tune up issue. good luck.

i think i know the answer, but at what point do you stop ''topping it off'' and go ahead and replace the o-rings, and refill from empty?

after an engine swap, i had this problem. there was no leak when cold, but at operating temp it would drip. i tightened the clamp. good work on the fix.

the TPS will / can throw a trans code and / or an engine code. the newr cars would differentiate between a TPS circuit problem vs. a TPS malfunction. i don't know about the 90 - 94 cars , not my generation. by ''handshake'' i assume you were reading the trans codes. wiring is a pretty good bet. but maybe the trans wiring, not the TPS wiring, maybe. the TPS is working for the engine and ECU, but some how the TCU and trans do not think so. if you do replace it make sure you adjust it correctly. another thing that will make the trans act wonky is bad / dirty / corroded grounding points / wires.

i'm not addicted. !!!!! i can quit any time i want. i just don't want to now.

the belts are different parts since they have a different number of teeth, but other than that they are the exact same process. wait a minute, it is the same as the 00 - 04 SOHC engines. i ASSUME it is the same as the 07 SOHC engine. but i have never seen one, not my generation.