moosens

Been meaning to present this to the great folks here. Recent addition and my friend the previous owner has no idea what happened. His lovey daughter had the use of the car for a lengthy period before our acquisition. I’m confident that once I remove the inner panel I’ll be able to unlatch it and likely spot the cause. But as it sits with the seat in place is it possible to remove the door card ? Another issue I know about but neglected to even give much of a glance at today as the sun baked me for a brake job. Figured there’s a chance somebody could give me a head start before I get time with that car again.

Should have taken pics but should that rear stabilizer link look kind of diagonal instead of more 90 degree vertical ? Link looked weak. Or the bushings of course.

Rear brakes just a bit different in the caliper retention method , and the extension needed to make the pass through for the caliper mounting bracket removal for the rotor swap. Ok yes I’m getting old but man those pads get more and more uhhh tricky to get into their places. Yes I used genuine parts all around. Just an old man rant. Job done , no noise, stops we’ll. But I can see or feel that I’ll be doing the fronts too. And for those keeping score I only did the rear side that was making fatal noises. It’s hot and I’m working with a limited window of opportunity. Lucky me.

Thanks for your time !

Old school folks like myself were taught to use a light weight oil on the winter and heavy in the summer. Back then 1970’s Subarus , we were generally sold on Castrol. And a 10w/40 or as time drove forward more of the market dictated 5w/30. Until recently as many of you old guys know you could easily score 20w oils for summer. Not so easy anymore. So now come the questions. Castrol in your favor or Amsoil (yet to use) or ? The Castrol slogan “engineered for small cars engine” kind of hooked us good. At what point do these modern engines no longer require or feel groovy on varied oils per season ? I’m leaving the EJ22 era now and we’ll be running 06 and 03/04 Legacys going forward. Just use what they say and don’t try to be a hero ? That’s it for the moment. Thanks for your opinions or advice.

Roadster I presume.

And there will be no alignment issues. If you had concerns.

I think you need the small bracket with the newer style to adapt to the older. Give it a good look over.

Danny K from NC drove up and bought a huge amount , pretty much the majority for sure of my NOS and used parts. I might still have one for you in my stash but haven’t had time to play with the parts I’m keeping yet. The storage is coming along but just that super busy time of year. Next chance I get I’ll do a quick search in the most likely boxes. As always it’s good to see you around again. cheers!

Popular again , but maybe not so. As notated the prop shafts do have a center bearing so two pieced. I would suspect these are remnants from the 80’s cars GL DL Loyale action. I can recall ugliness with many of those carrier bearings. Rotted floor/unibody caused one side of the bracket to weaken and mmmm trouble. Don’t have pics. Shame on me. They’re free to a good home.

How about those reverse lights ? I see on my friend’s ‘05 wagon that their lamps take on water. Silicone caulk ?

And brus brother , you sold off all your goodies for these wagons , eh ? I think we have a color matched cargo mat in the back and full top coverage on the cargo area.

Thanks everybody. Wife likes it and the A/C works. See you back when the questions arise.

What do you mean enters ? I’ve been told I’m in the space age since around high school.....

And please also know that we are kind of miffed on all the newer controls and features. Yes there is an owners manual and we will be reviewing soon. Theres also two key/alarm fobs and one needs a battery. Have to set up Bluetooth too. It’s got an Alpine stereo. Again , much for us old folks to discover.

We just took on a 2006 Outback. We’re older and our cars are always older too. So that’s why we have little clue as to what to expect from these “newer” cars. No real problems to report at this time. But we’ve only had it for less than 24 hours as of this post. From what I see it’s a single cam 2.5 You guys know this stuff - what’s that engine designation ? EJ25ZRXFUTVAK ????? Thanks for any advice and knowledge. Cheers!

Heck with Subarus , get back out there on the water ! I see you’re a biologist. And on a work boat. I’m a Shellfishing nut myself. Just never enough time with good tides. I’m a shore goer , no boat. Enjoy !!

Yeah as mentioned carrier bearing. You’ve been under that car a lot. I’m guessing you’d have noticed that by now but if there is one , check it. Used to be CT Driveshaft and I’d see their van everywhere!!! Quick search and I’m not sure about these places now but maybe the one in East Hartford is the original. Curious which yard you go to , and which ones you’d feel are worth investigating. I pretty much gave up on most of that these past couple of decades. Johnny’s in Thomaston was a good place you could roam.

Sorry about your dad. Spray some penetrant into that sliding bushing until it works free. Then re-grease it. Maybe take a few minutes to review some YouTube videos but of course we’ll help from here too. You want those calipers to slide freely. And the pads to slide freely too. Given the vehicle’s age and where you’re at right now I suggest getting new bearings , the ones set into the housing already , and of course fresh brakes. Thrifty guys like me will save the pads you have that don’t look so bad. As long as the wear isn’t drastically angled (pad surface beveled) you can keep those handy just in case. And you can square them up quickly and safely if they’re a little off. You can work that bushing free in many ways but I’m sure putting it in a vice is a very good idea. No heat needed yet. And of course be considerate to the rubber boots or be prepared to replace them.

And you don’t need to do the full deal to just clean and adjust the float. Not sure how deep you’ve gone before but it’s easily manageable with the usual patience required.

Have you ever taken the carb off and soaked it , refreshed it with a kit ? Float needle could be an issue here. My opinion. as you mention , the valve that fills the float bowl.

Holy resurrection!! Skip , we miss you buddy! RIP I would say this is for N/A and not the turbo - my opinion.

I love reading posts like that last one. 50 years experience! Thanks for sharing your knowledge here. Folks keeping these car will need this info down the line for sure.

Throw out bearing is p-n 30502KA000 - that was hand written above the crossed out original p-n which looks like it may have been 03151 4700 The little springs if you need them (2) are 83173 8620 And the big one .... drum roll please ....clutch disk is 43012 7030 - also hand written over old number which had the last four digits as 7011 it looks like.

Debated use of oil pan gasket. Some just use Fuji-Bond - which is cheapest at your Nissan dealer. Oil pan gasket p-n 41160 7000 should you choose to.