moosens

No cover. The oil filter is recessed up between sections of Y pipe and whatever I haven’t discovers yet. This is an N/A car. But where they stuck the filter is blocked by pipes. Maybe I caved in too quick. It was hot and my main job had been accomplished. But I threw my ground cover down and laid under there , worked my way as deep as I could without the car being raised. I can see the oil pan and it’s drain plug. That’s all weirdly placed as well to an old schooler but easy enough. Is what it is. It’s this filter that’s inaccessible from first approach.

And what do you folks do when changing the oil and filter? Putting off any more work for today. But hoping to do the oil tomorrow or soon after. Can’t see the stinkin filter but I can feel that it’s the short type which I have plenty of. So will I not be able to get my old school oil filter wrench up there? I don’t see any easy access. And of course the next question would be what are you using not only to remove but to tighten up the new one ? We can all extract a filter using many crude methods. I don’t need a lesson in that. Thanks.

So you know , this is what happens. And the part is around $34 or so. You’ll get the entire handle as you see the old one presented here with all its assembly.

Some info for the next guys or gals. Exterior handle is broken. Was able to remove door card with door still locked shut. Probably did NOT have to take the skin off since I found that you can get the lock to unlatch using a long screwdriver. Easier from the door inner side but also can be had creatively from the window slot. Look for the green link retainer. I did not take the time to see if I could have rigged it so at least the interior handle would open the door. I’m assuming the lock mechanism needs to be seated in its proper location before the interior handle link can also function. Not the best time for me to be working on this. Had to throw it all back together without fixing the handle. Was going to try to use an epoxy but didn’t have any handy. Besides , it really needs a new handle. I only wanted to try to epoxy it and see if it would work even short term while I order the new handle. To be continued.

Thanks again. Whichever slimy stuff they used last looks to be a plenty so I left it as they passed it to me and sliding well. Next time around I’ll address the whole shebang. Sooner or later I’ll get this car up to Subafreak and give consideration to all things suspension. I just won’t rally the beast until ... ok never.

Been meaning to present this to the great folks here. Recent addition and my friend the previous owner has no idea what happened. His lovey daughter had the use of the car for a lengthy period before our acquisition. I’m confident that once I remove the inner panel I’ll be able to unlatch it and likely spot the cause. But as it sits with the seat in place is it possible to remove the door card ? Another issue I know about but neglected to even give much of a glance at today as the sun baked me for a brake job. Figured there’s a chance somebody could give me a head start before I get time with that car again.

Should have taken pics but should that rear stabilizer link look kind of diagonal instead of more 90 degree vertical ? Link looked weak. Or the bushings of course.

Rear brakes just a bit different in the caliper retention method , and the extension needed to make the pass through for the caliper mounting bracket removal for the rotor swap. Ok yes I’m getting old but man those pads get more and more uhhh tricky to get into their places. Yes I used genuine parts all around. Just an old man rant. Job done , no noise, stops we’ll. But I can see or feel that I’ll be doing the fronts too. And for those keeping score I only did the rear side that was making fatal noises. It’s hot and I’m working with a limited window of opportunity. Lucky me.

Thanks for your time !

Old school folks like myself were taught to use a light weight oil on the winter and heavy in the summer. Back then 1970’s Subarus , we were generally sold on Castrol. And a 10w/40 or as time drove forward more of the market dictated 5w/30. Until recently as many of you old guys know you could easily score 20w oils for summer. Not so easy anymore. So now come the questions. Castrol in your favor or Amsoil (yet to use) or ? The Castrol slogan “engineered for small cars engine” kind of hooked us good. At what point do these modern engines no longer require or feel groovy on varied oils per season ? I’m leaving the EJ22 era now and we’ll be running 06 and 03/04 Legacys going forward. Just use what they say and don’t try to be a hero ? That’s it for the moment. Thanks for your opinions or advice.

Roadster I presume.

And there will be no alignment issues. If you had concerns.

I think you need the small bracket with the newer style to adapt to the older. Give it a good look over.

Danny K from NC drove up and bought a huge amount , pretty much the majority for sure of my NOS and used parts. I might still have one for you in my stash but haven’t had time to play with the parts I’m keeping yet. The storage is coming along but just that super busy time of year. Next chance I get I’ll do a quick search in the most likely boxes. As always it’s good to see you around again. cheers!

Popular again , but maybe not so. As notated the prop shafts do have a center bearing so two pieced. I would suspect these are remnants from the 80’s cars GL DL Loyale action. I can recall ugliness with many of those carrier bearings. Rotted floor/unibody caused one side of the bracket to weaken and mmmm trouble. Don’t have pics. Shame on me. They’re free to a good home.

How about those reverse lights ? I see on my friend’s ‘05 wagon that their lamps take on water. Silicone caulk ?

And brus brother , you sold off all your goodies for these wagons , eh ? I think we have a color matched cargo mat in the back and full top coverage on the cargo area.

Thanks everybody. Wife likes it and the A/C works. See you back when the questions arise.

What do you mean enters ? I’ve been told I’m in the space age since around high school.....

And please also know that we are kind of miffed on all the newer controls and features. Yes there is an owners manual and we will be reviewing soon. Theres also two key/alarm fobs and one needs a battery. Have to set up Bluetooth too. It’s got an Alpine stereo. Again , much for us old folks to discover.

We just took on a 2006 Outback. We’re older and our cars are always older too. So that’s why we have little clue as to what to expect from these “newer” cars. No real problems to report at this time. But we’ve only had it for less than 24 hours as of this post. From what I see it’s a single cam 2.5 You guys know this stuff - what’s that engine designation ? EJ25ZRXFUTVAK ????? Thanks for any advice and knowledge. Cheers!

Heck with Subarus , get back out there on the water ! I see you’re a biologist. And on a work boat. I’m a Shellfishing nut myself. Just never enough time with good tides. I’m a shore goer , no boat. Enjoy !!

Yeah as mentioned carrier bearing. You’ve been under that car a lot. I’m guessing you’d have noticed that by now but if there is one , check it. Used to be CT Driveshaft and I’d see their van everywhere!!! Quick search and I’m not sure about these places now but maybe the one in East Hartford is the original. Curious which yard you go to , and which ones you’d feel are worth investigating. I pretty much gave up on most of that these past couple of decades. Johnny’s in Thomaston was a good place you could roam.

Sorry about your dad. Spray some penetrant into that sliding bushing until it works free. Then re-grease it. Maybe take a few minutes to review some YouTube videos but of course we’ll help from here too. You want those calipers to slide freely. And the pads to slide freely too. Given the vehicle’s age and where you’re at right now I suggest getting new bearings , the ones set into the housing already , and of course fresh brakes. Thrifty guys like me will save the pads you have that don’t look so bad. As long as the wear isn’t drastically angled (pad surface beveled) you can keep those handy just in case. And you can square them up quickly and safely if they’re a little off. You can work that bushing free in many ways but I’m sure putting it in a vice is a very good idea. No heat needed yet. And of course be considerate to the rubber boots or be prepared to replace them.

And you don’t need to do the full deal to just clean and adjust the float. Not sure how deep you’ve gone before but it’s easily manageable with the usual patience required.