john in KY

Don't know if this will help but recently had a very similar problem with my 95. By chance I noticed a small vacuum line, connecting what to whatI don't know, was disconnected.

This is only going to get worse with time. Subaru needs to buy back the car.

Check for spark. Have spark then my guess is the injectors aren't firing. Need to be grounded on the 85 model. One of the intake manifold bolts passenger side.

If you removed the air intake hose doing the spark plugs, fair chance one of the many hoses left unconnected.

No. Has a vane type.

There's a little port left side of the steering wheel. Close to the hood release. Plug in a code reader and done. https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/1997_Subaru_Legacy_L_2.2L_4_Cyl._Wagon/check_engine_light/diagnose

Are 2.2 and 2.5 dual port manifolds the same?

Don't know if this will help but on older Subarus the injectors are batched fired, 2 at a time. Since the other 5 injectors are firing and you have 12V at the problematic injector, my guess is the problem is not the ECU. Seems to me to be a wiring problem between the injector and the ECU.

Misfires, cylinders 1 and 2, have me thinking the coil pack. Photo is the TPS. Don't fool with it.

Almost sounds like the belt is not spinning the alternator. Does this car have a 2-piece front balancer?

Just a thought: Run a new wire directly from the alternator output terminal to the positive post. Fuse the new circuit. Thinking the problem may be all the wiring under the fusible links box.

Check the modulator vacuum line. May be disconnected at the engine. No vacuum, no upshift.

Took all the above advice and the belt is on and the engine fired right up. Too cold here to finish the job and tomorrow will be even colder. Debating whether or not to leave the covers off. As an aside, leave the water in your house dripping during this cold snap. We 2 nights ago had every faucet except the hot water in the kitchen dripping and guess which one froze. Spent most of today with breaks to work on the car thawing that puppy. Thanks for all the advice.

1995/2.2 Had to fix a leaking water pump and for the life of me, I can't get the timing belt back on. Almost goes on but can't get over the water pump pulley. Hydraulic tensioner, new, retracted. How do I get a tad more slack in the belt? Temperature starting to fall again so calling it quits today.

Is the "Eat here, I need the money" diner in Front Royal still in business? Once lived in The Plains about 40 years ago.

https://www.amazon.com/Kats-22400-Watt-Battery-Heater/dp/B000I8XDAS

If the engine 5K miles ago was not overheating and not losing coolant and now is, I would suspect someone screwed up installing the new pump. "When up on the lift, we noticed a drop of coolant on the bottom of the water pump, but cannot see it leaking when watching while car is running." Could be caused by a hose clamp not tight enough. I won't spend thousands or even a thousand throwing parts at a 20-year old car.

Should be 2 small screws, one on each side of the handle/stem. Remove screws and the outer part of the shifter can be pull upwards.

Know next to nothing about this but aren't the keys in the newer models chipped? Thinking just changing the cylinder without getting the key flashed/reprogramed or whatever, what do I know about modern electronics?, will accomplish nothing.

3 engine starts killed the battery seems to me the battery is on the way out. Alternators in good shape will pump out 14.7 volts.

I'd try the dealer. Post is a little vague. What control arms are you using? XT6?

That eBay ECU is from a 1994 Impreza/1.8 engine. Should work.

Want to thank everyone that responded. Got a late start today. Just pulled the axle. The stubby shaft was fully seated. Problem is the inboard joint. Axle could be turned but the joint remained stationary. Pulled it apart and ???? All looked good. Based on a video I found, I installed that cage with the 6 ball bearings backwards. Flipped it around and will reinstall tomorrow if the rain holds off. Getting proficient at pulling CV axles. Didn't take more than 15 minutes this time and that includes punching out the roll pin. Again, thanks for all the advice.

Face palm time. Went to Utube for some how-to videos and keyed on "removing the roll pin". What? I just pulled the axle free. Doh. So the stubby shaft came out with the axle. I'll pull everything in the morning and hopefully get everything right again. Thinking I may have reinstalled the inner cage or whatever it is called, the part the holds the bearings, backwards. Thinking this because I don't recall the inner joint sliding on the shaft. In my defense, just did the same job on the 08 a few weeks ago and it didn't have a roll pin, or I least think that now. thinking I better check it also tomorrow. Isn't old age wonderful? Just returned from a nursing home down the road where I feed 4 feral cats. Got there, cats waiting and guess who left the cat food on the carport?

I'll have to check that. Could not being fully seated cause the no PARK problem? Been thinking about the problem and so far the only thing I can envision is the axle is "slipping" at one of the ends. Either at the hub or the differential.