john in KY

Only the XT got the NA MPFI engine. Better than average chance what you have is the turbo version of the MPFI (the turbo was removed) which means it will have the super low compression. Can't swap intakes and the SPFI ECU won't work anyways. Only way I can see this working is the heads and intake manifold have to be reused. If the pistons in the long block are dished, this means it is a turbo engine and this makes the swap a no-go also.

Try running a wire from the battery positive pole directly to the positive post on the coil. If the engine fires I would think the CAS is good and the ECU is bad. If it doesn't fire, my guess is a bad distributor (CAS).

If you are sure the whine is from the alternator, then it is on the way out. Another "test" is to feel the alternator after the engine has been running for a few minutes. Too hot to touch means it is dying also. Those voltage amounts don't sound all that bad to me. You can use a much newer Subaru alternator if you want. Only difference will be the alternator plug. Lot easier to find a 95 and newer alternator than that old one. Just take the plug.

Correct me if wrong but fairly sure the fuel pump to run, there has to be a signal from a turning distributor.

Have you checked for a broken timing belt yet? ECUs in these things almost never fail. If the timing belt is not broken and the fuses are good and still no spark, I would suspect the CAS located inside the distributor. Edit: Located on the coil bracket is something called a power transmitter or something like that. If it fails, no spark. If the coil bracket is not well grounded, no spark.

May want to check this out, located under the passenger seat:

Car is located way too far from me to fool with. But you should have no problem selling it if listed on Craigslist. Nashville, Knoxville and Chattanooga are the 3 cities I would use.

I live 40 miles from you and could be interested in the whole car if you can send me some photos.

Engine had to turn to install the TC bolts. Have you attempted to turn it in the other direction? Thinking one of the TC bolts is hanging up if you are lucky. Also, if you didn't fully seat the TC, you just repeated your HS experience.

Radiator in the car is a two row if it has never been changed because of it being a turbo. Temperature problem is almost certainly a leaking head gasket, passenger side. Nice looking old wagon. Someone in Wisconsin or Michigan just a few days ago offered for free a good turbo engine. May want to hook up with him. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=941324#post941324

You do know about the 3 marks on the flywheel used to time the belts? After 1st belt installed, rotate one full revolution and install the 2nd.

Very easy to break the 4EAT when you install the engine if you have never done it before. Just a warning.

To correctly install the belts, when the timing mark on one cam is in the 6:00 position, the other timing mark on the other cam has to be in the 12:00 position.

Can't be a Loyale because none ever came with the air suspension. If a Legacy, I have a set of new rear air struts. Edit: $325 shipped for the pair.

The fan should work when the AC is on. When the AC was blowing hot air this means it wasn't engaged. System could be low on refrigerant or the AC compressor could have gone off line because of the underhood temperature. Don't quote me on this but I think the compressor has a thermoswitch somewhere. When the compressor gets too hot, the switch turns off the compressor. I know my wagon will do this on very hot days and when I sit for 30 or more minutes with the engine just idling. The fan has to have a relay somewhere. It may be failing. Easy way to determine if the fan has not failed is to unplug it and then run 12volts to one side and ground the other. If the fan turns then you know it is not the problem.

Just replaced the one on my car and Heartless has the correct location. Really way down there but it is down there. Don't overtorque the mounting bolt. Thinking something like 17lbs.

May want to check for fuel pressure before tearing it down too far.

Should be a sticker on the bellhousing. Maybe a dealer could tell you something with the number. Just thought don't all newer cars have the vehicle's VIN stamped on all the major components?

Post a photo of the "wolfhound". I love big dogs.

Pull a spark plug and check for wetness. Also pull the FPR vacuum line. If fuel pours out, or if any fuel in the line, the FPR has ruptured.

Little knock sensor related story. At least once a year I make a run home to Ohio, a 600 mile trip. the old wagon used to do it on less than two full tanks. Last few years noted it was taking almost 3 tanks to make the trip and the old car just didn't seem to have the get up and go it once had. Chalked it up to age as I don't have what I once had. Returning from Ohio, threw a check engine code that turned out to be the knock sensor. Removed it and noticed its housing was cracked. New sensor and the engine now runs great and the old fuel economy has returned.

Use a stack of washer and a longer bolt and that will reposition the alternator out where it should be. You sure when you took everything apart the alternator didn't have two spacers?

I am thinking it is possibly: power steering rack any help would be appreciated. What ever happened with this problem? Check the bushings that hold the rack in place.

My money is on the TO bearing. Only once had an input shaft bearing failure and it sounded nothing like what you described.

One easy way to differentiate between XT6 and newer knuckles is to look at the two strut mounting holes. If both holes are the same size then it is an XT6 knuckle. If the top hole is larger because it is used with a camber bolt, then that is not an XT6 hub.