dmanaenk

rear main seal retainer - its what comes up on genuinesubaruparts catalog if I enter part number for Oil Separator plate. So how exactly did you figure that your 2.2 has metal one? I distinctly remember posts on this board claiming they have found plastic ones on 95 2.2

If I was in Arizona I'd also do that too. I had my parking brakes freeze on me once, so I couldn't move So now I set parking brake depending on weather forecast

My point is simple - softer tire grips better, but wears out faster. And the other way - the higher is the "tread warranty" number - the more like plastic the tire is, wears out slower, grips worse. Thats all I have to say. And it does not matter if its Michelin or some other brand - if it doesn't loose half the tread in 20-30k I will stay away from them. Anyone else can do whatever they like. Some people run re92 and never complain. Some people never use winter tires, etc.

Lazy bum, you did not paint black trim piece on sidemarkers

Why not go to autozone and ask them to clear it?

Is there any difference performance-wise from moving gear selector vs stepping on gas when you want to go a gear lower to speed-up? During my short experience with 4eat I did not feel any, except that stepping on gas is simpler. So I do not see why would you want to shift down to accelerate over flooring gas. I only see why one would downshift for slowing down on slippery roads.

1) If the tires do not wear out in 40k-(maybe 60k if you drive like grandma) miles - these are crappy tires with plastic instead of rubber and I would not trust them with my life. 2) For the price of Michlens there are typically tons of better and cheaper options. 3) You cannot have 5 tires and rotate them on a Subaru

Me likey. I want one. No idea how this one got past my automatic searches on ebay As for adapter - why oil filter adapter? Why not oil galley plug?

Thats what I thought... Many people dump these re92-s right after they buy a car, and for a good reason. I honestly think that any decent tire will not (should not) last past 40k with average use. If I were you - I'd change the tires asap. Your experience says that tread depth is no longer enough to direct water away from contact patch, and it's gonna be getting worse every day. Sure, you can drive these until they become illegal to drive on (and even past that) but if you choose to do so - at least slow down.

Let me guess, still on original tires? AWD/traction control/stability control etc help manage existing traction. Existing traction depends only on tires.

Swap plastic oil separator plate for a metal one.

Change PCV valve. 1L per 1000miles is not ridiculous for a 100k+ car

Few more lights and they will actually start slowing the car down when on

I ordered some groupN sti topmounts And those were cheaper than kyb ones tirerack sells.

Try NAPA, I buy Seafoam there.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=351010&postcount=22 I just pull the hose pictured from the intake (other end is harder to pull), put your hose on, put hose into the can and suck

So I pulled the wheel, banged on everything with rubber mallet, pulled and greased sway-bar bushing, inspected ball joints, and doublechecked from below that two holes in topmount face outwards. Retorqued topmount nuts and strut piston rod nut. The only thing that made noise similar to what I hear when driving - is if I directly bang the coil spring, and seems to be coming from the top of the strut, so seems like you guys are right - should be a bad topmount. The question is - which ones should I get and how many (just one or two?)

I changed the whole assemblies, there was no obvious slop in topmounts. And like I said - shouldn't they clunk if I jump on the suspected corner?

Changed old shot struts for some medium milage used ones. Now getting clunking/knocking sounds in the front left wheel going over even the tinies bumps and road imperfections. Incidentally, left strut to knuckle bolts were the hardest to break loose. Noise does not depend on wheels being turned. Does not clunk if I just brake/accelerate/turn on a smooth surface. Struts seem to dampen fine, no noise if I just push them down while parked. What could I have damaged while installing struts? Sway bar bushings? Shouldn't these clunk if I just turn or brake hard? Control Arm bushings? Top mounts? Shouldn't these make noise if I push that corner down?

Just change the oil soon. I change oil after running seafoam through top end, just because some of it will get past piston rings and thin out the oil.

I wonder if there is a way to make it show coolant temp instead of outside one, and oil pressure instead of athmospheric

I'd either wait until it blows headgasket and change rear main/separator plate then. Or, if you decide to pull the engine - do headgaskets before they blow on you. I also have the rear leak, and since I have a stick-shift, I am waiting until my clutch is due for a change, keeping an eye on oil level. Mine leaks/burns about 1-1.5qt between oil changes

Very high milage from NJ with a stick? Good luck getting more than 6k for it. Btw, Edmunds.com says 6k

Any other legacy except brighton has disk brakes. I am thinking about it, just don't have much time now. You'll need complete rear hubs with brake lines and e-brake cables.

search not for 'shock' but for 'strut' replacement.