MilesFox

now it s my turn to sell you parts:lol:. Subaru XT's in Indiana? Unheard of!! i need rear hubs:slobber:

engine temp sensor, the one withthe green plug(88+) on the thermostat housing. This will tell the Idle Air Control valve to open or close(like a choke) If the car is idling high, the car may think its still cold when its warmed up. Also try cleaning the IAC, located on the front of thethrottle body. You can soak it in Sea Foam. Try pinching off the hose and see if the idle changes.

Any of the 5spd 4wd trans will fit the same with the same bellhousing conversion kits. Beware of turbo trans since they have a 25 spline axle, which does not fit for the brat. It is possible to swap out 23 spline axle stubs in a turbo(dual range rx) trans to be compatible with the brat axles. By this route, i would recommend the xt6 trans for regular street driving, having gearing more suited to the ej22 135 hp since the xt6 has 145 hp

use an impreza adapter. that has been done. splines are the same.

after popping out the stud, i would put the castle nut back on and whack at the control arm with a 3 lb hammer, and use pipes between the body and control arm to push down. clean out the rust really well and use anti seize compound when going back together

for 200 bucks, put on a timing belt and go. no one drives on a bad head gasket waiting for the timing belt to let go. while you are in there, do the water pump and engine seals. but to just get it going, you will be fine just doing the belt and hitting the road.

use ea71 pistons in the ea81 block, go for a cam, do the custom header. it would be neat to see someone build a custom intake the same. no luck on the points disty you can even make a carb ej22 with the right imported parts

Please refer to this video series "Art of Subaru Maintenance" 1-3 for pulling your engine. Although the videos demonstrate an ea82 engine, procedure will be mostly the same. Follow the advice on where to place the jack on the trans, and how to separate the bellhousing and torque converter

Roll on rustoleum is the only way!!! I have spray painted at least 20-25 cars, and this time around i have moved onto roll-on rustoleum out of the quart cans. They make matte and semi-gloss finishes. Ise the 4" foam rollers, and only pour out a little bit of paint in the tray at a time so it doesnt get sticky on you. There is much less prep and masking doing it this way, and a whole quart will coat the car 2-3 times at least. save yourself the hassle of masking, overspray, wind and dust. If you are painting under a light, expect a bug or 2 to land ont he car. if you make a mistake or get a bug, let the paint dry and wet sand it off. Much faster and less messy! Spray paint is only good when you can make it look like it has not been spray painted.

I wouldnt be afraid to use it. It can't be any different than sitting on a parts shelf for so long.

I have had the luxury of using the u-haul hitch bay as the shop and access to tools and materials. I used a pneumatic riveter. the one at u-haul was actually the harbor freight model (blue-grey hammered color). I used 3/16 x 1/2 and 3/4 rivets and 3/16 drill bit. You might be able to buy rivets by the box at the u-haul if you ask the manager or the hitch guy. Although its not a normal sales item, they have the ability to sell it for retail if the manger choses to do so. I would otherwise suggest semi trailer repair shops or rv shops for rivets if you cannot source a supplier. go HF for the tool, but better for the rivets themselves. Use aluminum since it is softer and hammerable. steel flashing can rip the holes out while drilling, and will tear if its too thin. the material i used was rather thick for sheeting, the flashing stuff at home depot will be much thinner for tight clearance.

The layout is based on a FWD with output to the rear. You are probably experiencing torque steer on the front wheels, as far as the power will pull in the dirextion you are steering.

Trim out and scrape down any rust you can get at, and seal it up with a good enamel paint or por 15. I have rebuilt door sills and rockers with aluminum roof skins from u-haul trucks. Personally, i like rivets and sheet metal vs sloppy bondo. You can make a panel that futs just under the door trim and wrap it around the seam of the door and pop a rivet all the way through. It would probably bebest to drill and pop your first rivet before drilling the rest of the holes. Pop your rivets as if it were a torque sequence, as the sheet metal can buckle and be wavy if you move too quickly or in the wrong order. work from the center out. here are some examples of the work i have done:

Replace the head bolts with studs since the bolts will limit the amount of torque you can apply before the aluminum threads rip out. The problem with this is you won't exactly find this as a kit, so getting some rounded up will requre talking to parts suppliers or going with bulk stock of threaded rod and making a kit. There are a few that have beat the ea82t into oblivion, reaching 250 hp, and their associated reliability issues. search all the WJM mosts on the usmb. Are you allowed to swap another engine with the same displacement(eja8) or are you stuck with what comes in the car fromt he factory?

Let me know what you guys end up doing this weekend with yard runs, etc. I still have a box of random ea82 parts and a complete gl-10 dashboard. I probably have some steering knuckles laying around, and still have a front axle that is rebuildable.

Welcome! If you find your way into Milwaukee, you should stop by. The car would have a 2-row from the factory being turbo. I would go with a new thermostat and waterpump, as the car will only be as reliable as the cooling system. Where did you get the car? It's pretty clean for a wisconsin car, unless it came from somewhere else. If you ever need to do the head gaskets on this car, i can help you as i have done no end of them. I encourage you to catch up to the milwaukee old-school crowd (Subaru Alliance) on any given weekend. you can keep up with us on http://www.dirtyimpreza.com for weekend meets http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14090

Tom, i found the gasket to that crusty rump roast water pump you are riding on. It goes to show that leftover parts from a blown headgasket can resurrect a $500 car. I painted the blue legacy white on the bottom. My girl had a real issue at first, but after all, I am Miles Fox and this is a Subaru. She got over it. This will be her car. I'll get a picture. The XT-6 is next. Scott, the Volvo may as well be TW11, and the legacy 12, you have 13 for the ranks.

do the heqd gaskets and be done. replacing the head gaskets is a permanent fix. going with a used motor is asking for a head gasket job later, unless it has already been done. if everyone tells you to get an ej22 or ej18, then get a different car that comes with it. i dont know why everyone is down on doing HG

Looks good!. I suggest you should paint the inside of the grille bars orange, but leave the outside of the grille black. The original trashwagon had a chrome grille. I think a white grille would look good, also(with a white bumper.)

Sounds like an inefficient radiator. It would be a good idea to consider replacing the water pump also, since they can eat away the impeller and not flow as effectively.

Look up "The Art of Subaru Maintenance" for a step by step engine seal and timingbelt procedure for an ea82 engine. The smaller seal you have in the picture looks like the oil pump shaft seal.

Car: 2000 Ford Taurus Wagon, V6, 135,000 mi Symptoms: No fuel pressure at the fuel rail, fuel gauge does not work(pre-existing) Scenario: By buddy gave me a call to rescue him after his car ran out of gas(fuel gauge stuck on F). we added about a gallon of gas and got the car to start and make it to the gas station. There was no fuel pressure until adding the gas, and the car started when i was checking for spark. Several hours later, he called me again saying the car broke down again, after 30 dollars in fuel and 25 miles of driving. No pressure at the fuel rail once again. From what i know, the car drove fine and had no issues up until the gas station scenario. my questions are: Is the fuel pump accessible from a panel inside the car, or does the tank have to come out? Where is the fuel pump located, and does it have the special ford clips requiring the tool? How much is the car worth to sell as is with no fuel pump to someone who woud fix it? I have a general idea what is invilved, but i have no experience working on this model of car outside of a p/s belt.

the trans, rear diff, and rear disc setup are worth going after the who;e car for. the engine will physically bolt up, but you have to swap the harnesses.

pull the motor out. mkes life easier, you only need to pull it up about 2 inches and forward 4 inches to do the sork. yo can leave a lot connected thie say, but yank the whole thing and do engine seals while at it. legacy engines are simpler to pull than the ea stuff, less overall individual connections

the water pump will leak behind its pulley when the bearing starts to go. it is designed to leak out of a weep hole when it wears too much to indicate it's due for replacement. any timing belt job should at least include replacing the water pump with it's bid for the work, standard procedre. of the WP fails, there goes the belt, and the valves.