MilesFox

if it is a manual trans with 23 splines it will be 3.9 gear. the turbo is 3.7 You would have to get a 3.7 trans, or go ahead and swap inner joints and get a 3.9 rear. 3AT turbo axles are 23 spline, and have the larger DOJ that swaps with 23 splines. If you go ahead and get new axles, order them for a 3spd Automatic Turbo. Rear axles are the same on any ea82 The gearing will be different with a regular s/r. Turbo gears are more close together, and on a longer final drive.

yeah if the dash and door plate differ from the firewall, someone did a vin swap. otherwise, someone may very well have swapped in a carb engine. I have swapped a carb motor into a turbo. all i had to dp was change out the fuel pump, and connect the disty straight to the coil. the rest of the mpfi harness remained as loose plugs under the hood. Car ran normally, tach worked, but of course, the check engine light was on! and by doing it this way, i was able to swap back in a turbo motor and plug it in like it was, and go back to the high pressure fuel pump. go look at your fuel pump and see if there is evidence of it being swapped the vin number you posted looks to be correct for a turbo Subaru Vehicle Identification Decoder Look up your vin number online First 3 Digits JF1 Passenger Vehicle JF2 Multi-Purpose Passenger Vehicle (MPV) Fourth Digit Model Line A Subaru XT and Loyale (L series) K Subaru J Line Fifth Digit Body Type A Justy B 4-dr 81-84 C 4-dr 85-89 F HatchBack 81-89 G 3-dr Coupe 86-89 K Touring Wagon 89 M Wagon 81-84 N Wagon 85-89 R Brat 81 T Brat 82-85 U Brat 86-87 W Hardtop 81-84 X XT 85-89, XT6 88-89 Sixth Digit Engine Type 1 1300 2 1600 3 1600 4wd 4 1800 5 1800 w/o air suspension 7 1800 4wd with air suspension 8 2700 9 2700 4wd with air suspension Seventh Digit Model Designation 1 STD Hatchback 2 DL 3 GL 81-90, RS, Justy 4 GLF 81-82, GL-10 85-89, Xt6 88-89 5 86 Turbo, GL-10 Turbo 87-89, GL full-time 4wd 3-door 87 6 Turbo RX 7 GL Turbo 87-89 Eighth Digit Weight Class and Restraint Type A Less then 3000 lbs GVWR B 3001-4000 lbs GVWR with Passive Restraint 1 Less then 3000 lbs GVWR 2 3001-4000 lbs GVWR with Passive Restrain Ninth Digit Check Digit Tenth Digit Vehicle Model Year A 4spd MT B 5spd MT C 3AT D 4spd 4wd MT 81-84 D 5spd 4wd MT 85-89 E 4spd 4wd Dual Range MT 81-84, 85-89 Hatchback, 85-89 Brat E 5spd 4wd Dual Range MT 85-89 F 3AT 4wd G Full Time 4wd MT H 4EAT Full Time 4wd 4 4spd 4wd 87 Hatchback Last Digits 002001 & after Touring Wagon 100001 & after Hatchback 200001 & after 4 Door Sedan 300001 & after Hardtop 81,84, XT, XT6 400001 & after Wagon 500001 & after Brat 700001 & after Justy 800001 & after 3-Door Subaru VIN code Position Sample Description 1 4 World Manufacturer Identifier 2 S 3 4 4 B Line type 5 T Body style 6 6 Engine type 7 1 Model identifier 8 C Restraint type 9 X Check digit 10 3 Model year 11 7 Plant of manufacturer & transmission type 12 1 Sequential number 13 0 14 8 15 3 16 8 17 5 Line types The line type is specified in character four of the Subaru VIN for passenger cars. VIN Code Description A Alcyone/XT/XT6 B Legacy/Baja C Alcyone SVX G Impreza S Forester Body styles The body style is specified in character five of the Subaru VIN for passenger cars. VIN Code Description C Impreza Sedan D Legacy Sedan E Legacy Sedan F Impreza & Forester Wagon G Legacy Wagon (Outback models) K Legacy Wagon M Impreza Coupe P Outback Wagon T Baja X XT/SVX Coupe Engine types The engine type is specified in character six of the Subaru VIN for passenger cars. VIN Code Description 2 1800cc FWD 3 3300cc AWD 4 2200cc AWD 6 2500cc AWD 8 3000cc FWD Models The model is identified in character seven of the Subaru VIN for passenger cars. VIN Code Description 1 Base 2 Brighton 3 L 5 LS/S 6 LSi 7 GT/RS 8 Outback/Sus 9 Postal Vehicle Restraint types The restraint type is specified as character eight of the Subaru VIN for passenger cars. VIN Code Description 2 Automatic Seat Belt without Air Bag 5 Manual Seat Belt w/ Driver/Passenger Air Bags 6 Manual Seat Belt w/ Driver/Passenger Air Bags and Side Air Bags C Manual Seat Belt w/ Driver/Passenger, Curtain and Side Air Bags Plants and transmission types The plant and transmission type is specified in character eleven of the Subaru VIN for passenger cars. VIN Code Plant Transmission 6 SIA AWD MT5 5/R 7 SIA AWD 4EAT 8 SIA AWD 4EAT (Postal) C FHI FWD 4EAT G FHI AWD MT5 5/R H FHI AWD 4EAT SIA=Subaru-Isuzu of America FHI=Fuji Heavy Industries Subaru WMIs WMI Country Description Vehicle Types JF1 Japan Fuji Heavy Industries Passenger Vehicle 4S3 USA Subaru-Isuzu of America Passenger Vehicle 4S4

the haynes book will throw you off with the pictures of the cams up. Yes it shows both cams up, but the body of text describes rotating the crank 360 after instsalling the first belt line up marks, install first belt up. rotate crank, first cam faces down. now install second belt up, rotate again, then find odeg and install the disty. do a search for " EA82 timing belts" and the link to the timing belt article will be thrown all over the place:grin:

not carb will be MPFI. you will need an adapter plate to go EJ

Now i have gone ahead and torqued everything up. I felt better after completing the task. Everything went together very well. The signs of failure on this example are consistent with photos i found online(skip's 2.5 headgasket page) The failure was at the bottom of the cylinder between the 2 water jackets. Thanks for all the advice

If the heay is blowing cold, then the goolant is too low. If you have bubbles in the radiator, you may have the beginnings of a blown head gasket. I suggest running a can of block sealer. Otherwise it will get worse. Try filling coolant by removing the upper radiator hose to fill the block. this trick has worked for me Try that, and if you still have bubbles, do the block seal. I have had success with 'liquid glass' type block seal, which contains sodium silicate. You have to follow specific directions for the block selar to be effective. DO NOT use bar's leak powder or pellets. this will wreck your heater core

the ea82 crossmember is physically wider than the ea81 framerail

you should be able to go with a 95-96 2.2 engine. I have performed the swap myself on someones car, although i dont recall the exact years. the intake plugged in the same and the only difference between the recipient and donor cars was the ac compressor itself. you will want to look and see if you have a dual port or single port exhaust

ej18's will share dimensions with the first gen ej22. Intakes are more or less the same, exhaust fits the same. you could put an 2.2 in place of the 1.8 using the 1.8 intake on the 2.2 motor. if the motor has a flywheel it will most likely be a FWD 5spd you can put 2.2 heads on it to change the compression

you might find a good bottom end in a used engine if trying to rebuild this particular unit. You can likely have one given to you by someone around here if you are near any one area. On opinion here, if you know enough subaru folk you can likely get an engine avg 100-150,000 mi for some 50 or 100 bucks. May be overall cheaper than sourcing rebuild parts. If you don't know any subaru folk, then no one is going to know what you are talking about:-p. get a good block and use your own heads Not to say you shouldn't rebuild an engine. If yours got cooked you should consider another block that you can rebuild without an overbore. With a cooked block there is a chance you could spin out a sleeve during the bore and then your block is ruined. Cooked blocks are more likely to strip threads on head bolts if you torqued them again this is general knowledge coming from me. Someone with such experience will chime in.

I can see the argument in relation to a rod or a crank bearing, but a cork oil pan gasket is a moot point

(fox's NAPA friend on his screen name) After hearing about this thread from Fox I feel compelled to put in my two cents worth. I've known Fox for a bit now, and have helped him track down multiple oddball items for EA-series Subaru vehicles through my work. I'm a car enthusiast at heart, and I have been doing parts for fast approaching 6 years now. The "OEM or Bust" mentality is pointless, in my opinion. Here is the reasoning: OEM manufacturers use (and often switch) suppliers mid-run at their leisure, strictly to fill orders, and to make the accountants happy. What was made by Febi/Bilstein for my Audi in 1990, could be made by Meyle now, yet still sold under the SAME EXACT part number. The manufacturer does what it takes to fill their shelves up to what they need, regardless of where it comes from. Aftermarket works the same way. I can't even begin to comprehend how many times I have opened an Echlin box at my work and found Ford, Denso, Delphi, Fuji, etc. tags on them. Now mind you that this is supposedly an AFTERMARKET replacement unit, but it has an OEM part in the box. The head gasket set for an EJ25 DOHC motor that Fox purchased had National seals for the cams, and a Fuji tag on the actual head gaskets. Classic example of going elsewhere to fill the box. OEM isn't always OEM, and Aftermarket isn't always aftermarket. You are dealing with a limited number of makers for pretty much every part out there. (Autolite makes Motorcraft plugs, and VW now uses NGK as OEM...) If you say OEM or bust, you are wasting your time. It is what is INSIDE the box that counts.

I'll take pics of my sealsets. i am curious to go buy a subaru oem set and compare to the felpro sets i have around. so far for comparison, i can take pics of the other 2.5 head gasket before i install it. I also have an unopened ea82 head set(felpro) and will have an er27 set soon to post up for comparison if anyone out there has a SUBARU oem seal, please describe the markings on the individual parts

point the rotor at the master cylinder. #1 is just to the right of the cap screw/clip when the flywheel is at the 0 deg mark, the passenger side cam is pointing to the hard corner on the valve cover. this is TDC when you think you have the distributor in correctly, make sure you can see the dot on the passenger side. leave the timing cover off on that side till you get the whole deal running properly

that is hot exhaust there on that pipe. it goes to the EGr. RTV would stink and burn uo inside there

well, of you can drive it as it is, try to get by and do the head gaskets on the old motor. Then you have a fresh motor to swap in that you know will be good. Which one did you twist the intake bolts on? if the loyale is not rusty, keep onto it until you get a good engine lined up, so long as you have the space to keep it. it can't be so bad it's beyond diagnosis or correction. only junk it if you decide you are done with subarus. I can understand the lack of old subarus in nebraska. these cars are cheap enough to come by if you know how to source them. you have to beat them to the junkyard!

sounds like your efforts made the spark/distributor work, but the fuel had to catch up once the pump was seeing a signal. If she does it again, see if the leads going to the distribitor are not cracked or loose at the distributor housing. could be an intermittent connection

I had a car die on me. I walked home, towedit there, and sat on it for months thinking i had a broken timing belt, and was too lazy to inspect it. It cam down to being forced to move the car, and only then did i bother to check the set screw, and there she be. If i would have though if that, i could have fixed it there off the side of the road to begin with.

I got a generic Bosch unit for 2 bucks(tech's price) the other variant that was more expensive had the molded plug specific to a subaru. the generic unit was just a bare wire at the end. No other difference between them. This is often an arguing point or suggestion for advice. please continue this discussion here! OEM gaskets vs Felpro, and others http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108259

look for chunks. could have lost a piece and jammed up the whole works

I had a ford pinto. i changed the head because the old one was ate up from bad oil pressure. I torqued down the first bolt before threading in the rest. i found out why you dont do it like this when the last hole did not line up. i broke a TTY bolt on a ford 1.9 escort. It had a cracked head so i got a replacement head. I had the HO motor with domed pistond and the new head ras a regualr and did not fit. I used a worn down metal blade on a circular saw to ream out the combustion chambers to fit the domed piston. Then i broke the TTY bolt when it called for a 90 deg turn. i did not know to use new bolts! i was already used to subarus then:lol: I drove around for a while in one car for a good bit before i noticed i forgot to install a motor mount on the motor i used I had a vibration in my wagon once. thought it was the driveshaft or lugnuts. got out and looked at both fronts and the passenger rear. got in the car and drove a few blocks and made a turn. The driver rear falls off the car, and is punctured by the rusty fenderwell. It was the one tire i did not look at. I flagged someone down to borrow a jack. He asked if I had a spare, but i did not. I had to borrow the jack to remount my now flattened tire. I had to borrow 1 lugnut from the rest of the wheels to mount the tire, and drive another 45 miles home. I'll just say i had an 11 inch rim by the time i got there!

ok. I guess felpro is a big enough company they have many outsources, including oem manufacturers to be sold under felpro kits. I would like to see some more input on this. I want this thread to avoid"this brand is bad, use oem only" and focus on the actual source of parts suppliers, and their relationships. For example, for something like a car battery, there are 3 manufacturers. for oil, there are a handful of manufacturers. And if you select different brands, you get a part, although maybe of a different grade of quality, from the same manufacturer. Every time i go to NAPA looking fo soob parts, they cross reference with other makes, especially true with a lot of jhapanese manufacturers. For example, i used a 86 izuzu impuls cap and rotor on my 86 3door, after cross referencing because the specific one was not in stock. I have seen the same NOK cam seals come from different brands of packaging. I have seen NOK or "made in mexico' for the same part in the same kit with the same part number at different times of purchases And OEM subaru oor nothing argument sounds more like brand recognition. If you get a subaru kit you wont have a 'made in mexico' seal, but that does not mean you will not have a subaru oem supplied part with another brand. you could use a turbo temp sensor from a nissan, would be the same part from manufacture, but would be 'genuine' to who ever you got the same part from I would have to show this thread to my NAPA guy, he could probably rattle a few examples off the top of his head I'll try to come up with a list of all the major manufacturers, and compare who gets what from who

ouch! you should take off the valve cover and have a look inside. make sure the gear on the cam is intact

probably has a bad valve guide, or somehow you flooded the cylinders with oil wrangling it around. do you know the motor you swapped was good? maybe you got the pcv routing wrong. make sure you got that right, that is the only thing i could think of that may be different now you completed the swap.

There is always the argument about using Subaru OEM vs other makes for gaskets. I Have a felpro set for 2.5 dohc, head gaskets and all related. I know that NOK is the oem supplier for cam seals and the like. i have ordered sets or random brands, some have NOK, some have"made in mexico" Everyone is giving me hell for using the felpro gasket set. One thing i have noticed is there is the fuji logo stamped on the head gaskets in the felpro set. (2.5 dohc, 1997 outback wagon, 4eat) I have seen the same for ea82 gaskets in the victor reinz sets. I get the impression that although felpro stamps their own gaskets, they will source other makes to make a complete set for specific applications so what gives? is the argument superficial, or is the felpro fuji stamped head gasket originally made by subaru and packaged as a felpro set? seems to be more speculation than anything. the advice i have is to stop assembling my engine and go to the subaru dealer. I already have the parts. they have fuji stampings on them. My own judgement tells me to use what i have. as far as speculation is concerned, there are those who cant predict their under 50,000 mile cars, and there are those who routinely keep 200,000 mi cars going all day long. Speculate what to fear of the unknown, or go by what is proven over and over. If a new subaru is built as good or better than an old subaru, then why does it seem like the newer the car is, the more likely it will break? old school vs new school, etc.......