MilesFox

aside from no dual range or 13 inch tires my 95 legacy is a total champ in the snow this year, with new winter pike tires, its unstoppable. i can pass on the shoulder on the beltline towing a trailer in the unplowed shoulder. and the car stops and goes on a dime as if it were just merely wet roads, and handles like gran turismo for sure! i was pulling u-haul trucks and trailers out of the snow at work. the car has enough traction that you can stall it before the tires spin out. and this car has 262,000 miles with a used transmission as far as overall traction i think you woukd be best with a manual 5spd, and i believe the rear diff is vlsd the only place i have gotten my car stuck was in my own driveway trying to run the wall of snow left by the pl0w truck when i got a wheel off the ground. nothing some cat litter and a shovel couldnt let the car get out on its own, though

stupid internet acronyms. its so bad that highschool kits can't spell to save their life, and say worlds like "lol" in spoken conversation. so ridiculous. like an argument i heard that email is pointless, just send a text. and to back the argument the acronyms and abbreviations are easier to type on the phone. IT'S A PHONE!!!! PHONE!! dial the number and TALK ON THE PHONE.

i am 6'2 but i like to sit upright and somewhat forward because i cannot drive in a gangster lean posture especially if i have to lean forward to reach controls or even the shifter. i dont think its much of a legroom issue so much as it is a seating position issue.the seat in the subaru sits more like a chair, and that my seem less roomy especially if you are used to domestic makes where you sit with your legs straight out a mile under the dashboard. xt seats do sit much lower (since an xt has less headroom) and offer more headroom,and may give you more of a seating posture you would be used to. i have xt seats in my car and i like the posture much better, i sit down in the car more instead of feeling like ia m halfway above the dash.

i would check the intake gasket or the rubber hose betweent the top of block and the thermostat housing. according to the pic it looks like coolant is running down the valve cover, and then one way to the back of the head to make it nasty looking and the other way to the exhaust stud where it is actuall y dripping off. if it were leaking from the stud bore or the exhaust port you would most certainly have overheat issues or at least exhaust bubbles in the radiator pushing out coolant. the intake gaskets are easy to miss if you hadnt thought to look there first.

a loyale radiator will fit but the only benefit is that it will be newer. the turbo models have the dual core so ask for any turbo model, not just loyale.

what's up fellow fox bretheren. i have an 88 sedan i converted from 2wd auto to 4wd 5spd. it has been t-boned on the passenger side but is totally driveable. i am not sure what i am gong to do with it other than run it on next year's ba/be rally (www.baberally.com) or maybe chop it up into some sort of tube chassis sandrail type thing. i havent considered parting it out just because its still a compl;ete running and driving car. if you would be interested in it i would let it go to the right person. or part it out to put together the right car. my guys in milwaukee have an 87 fwd wagon that owuld eb a good platform to build. if you want a subaru you can just about go with anything you find, just for the simple fact you can put them together any way you like from parts form just about any other ubaru. in fact, your username is the name of my car. i am over here in madison, not too far away. unless you want to go out west for subarus, hit me up. milesfox@yahoo.com here is a pic of the car as it is now, i also have an 87 rx build and a 95 legacy, and i always have an eye out for local soobs to end up with. this car in particular has the following: 87 rx front struts and knuckles. short block and trans from 88 4x4 wagon with appx 115,000 mi. 135,000 mi heads ported with a dremel 87 xt n/a cams(from dual port heads) fold down rear gl-10 seats 60 amp alternator h-style aluminum wheels and 185-75 tires. other than that the car is stock layout besides the fact it once was a front drive automatic. the car itself has about 220,000 miles, was originally a virginia car when we picked it up some 4-5 years ago

i had a battery explode in my face serviceing a u-haul truck. i was popping the cap off and grounded my tool on the frame. i was not wearing safety glasses but i was lucky to escape with my vision. i go inside to proclaim that a battery exploded in my face, and the girl at the counter's response was "would you go pull up this truck for me"

could you have an INTAKE GASKET leak?

aside from argument and dismissal, i remember once reading a post about an overheating legacy. i then the belt broke and the waterpump was discovered to be seized. i would bet on a dragging water pump i have 261,000 on my legacy and the water pump is the only thing left to let go with everything else that has been done

i just get a kick out of the rust misconceptions for you folks wayward of the rust belt. i was at wcss5 in 03 if you want to know what i'm up to check this out http://video.google.com/url?docid=-7140049306933958823&esrc=sr1&ev=v&len=620&q=miles%2Bfox%2Buhaul&srcurl=http%3A%2F%2Fvideo.google.com%2Fvideoplay%3Fdocid%3D-7140049306933958823&vidurl=%2Fvideoplay%3Fdocid%3D-7140049306933958823%26q%3Dmiles%2Bfox%2Buhaul%26total%3D1%26start%3D0%26num%3D10%26so%3D0%26type%3Dsearch%26plindex%3D0&usg=AL29H22Y9jN4-W2sGqvS3CnRP_pzEVoDXQ

the whole car will fit. anything you want to swap but the 86 will have different shape rear quarter window in th elower corner and the grille, marker lites, and gauge bezel will be different. the display will be different color. but other than that, it will all work the same. the front calipers and rims will be slightly different, but whole assemblies will interchange

dude, go to milwaukee or madison. why not? subaru folks in both places! you dont need your mom to go with you, just someone you know with a license. go meet some people with licenses, and subarus, and there you go. wait a year and that wont be a problem. i usually see original belts let go between 135 and 145,000 miles. as this is the miles range i find original cars with broken belts go open covers. i do that all day long. if you plan on fixing your car the next time it takes the job down from 2 hrs to 20 min for anyone experienced. and what is all these MYTHICAL NOTIONS ABOUT RUST!?!?!?!?!? i swear to god the whole rust thing gets blown out of proportion. how about seeing rusty cars or having one before you think your car is junk because it has a paint chip. cam pulleys will not rust apart. only if they sit in a field with grass growing under the hood for years on end. there is enough of a slight oil film and war pattern to keep that from rusting out. give me a break. like i said, THE LOYALE, if you want help with the belts i will come over and whip it out in an afternoon just for something to do on my way back and forth from milwaulee to madison. i have done a complete headgasket job from a running and driving car to a running and driving car within the span of a saturday. i roll waukesha more than you know. i drive the car in the "waukesha off road" video on youtube. other than that, get your hands dirty and some miles behind you. use 30 wt oil. do donuts at wal mart. paint orange stripes on your car.....

there is no gasket between the cam tower, its a bead of silicone. anearobic or ultra grey is what you will need "import grey" as it may be referred to here are some pics of ea82t in various stages of headgasket repair

i went to the parts store once. looked up a temp sensor for an 89 gl-10 turbo touring wagon. not in stock. ok then, how about an 87 rx? not listed. ok then, how about a nissan 240 sx? here you go. i walked out with the part i needed and it worked. so look up a nissan if you must

The message you have entered is too short. Please lengthen your message to at least 1 characters.

your best bet is to find a whole car for parts, say one that has been wrecked, or has quit running and the owner would soon junk it. at least for the major components. aside from parts sourcing it can be done either way. i have performed the following swaps: fwd 5spd to 4wd 5spd 4wd 3at to 2wd 3at(bad diff) ea81 5mt to ea82 dual range 4wd 3at 4wd ea81 to ea82 5spd dual range(and another between 2 ea82's part time 4wd to full time 4wd and finally: 3at fwd to 4wd 5spd dual range (twice) 95 legacy with a 93 transmission

the h4eads on the spfi will be missong the ports for all that anti backfire tubing running off the back of the heads. you can eliminate all that. you wi;ll gain compression with using the spfi longblock and the carb intake. other than that, it will all fit the same

valve cover gasket

i did some internet searches and read the foloowing: cant put studs on used tired because dirt gets in the holes, studs may fall out stuts are installed with a gin, according to the picture they look like rivets, i have a pmeumatic rivet gun i also read that some folks will take the tires and drill the holes thru the tread, and thread half inch screws fom inside and install a tube. i have some half inch screws with 5/16 hex head with slot for standard screw driver. the thread is corse and the tip very point. i chopped the ips off so the overall lenght is 1/4 inch i threaded one in with a dime and it seemed to fit snugly. if it stays i may do more my tires are pre-holed for studs i was told that a powersports shop may have them(snowmobiles, atv's) aside from studs, the ice we have would be snowmwlt that freezes the next day. my tires are siped rather well, and grip VERY WELL, i have read that the studs will affect traction on non icy surfaces as they sdont let the treads fully contact the ground. but i was entertained byt the guy at auto-zones notion to use screws, so i thought i would give it a go on the inner curcumfrence of the tire(to not be visible

my legacy has 261,000 miles. the belt let go 4,000 miles ago. i re-used the original tensioner. the tensioner is original for all i know, from what i was told they rarely fail. it's your call, but i ould only replace it if it has obvoius sighns of wear or has been squealing

i had a ford explorer with a clogged cat. glowed cherry red. it fould out the plugs and burned up the ign wires. i poked out the 2nd cat and changed the plugs, and made a 600% profit on the turnaround. i had the exhaust off my legacy to swap the tranny and holowed out the cats just because they were looking at me, and come apart at the cats themselves(try doing a y pipe without cutting it!) anyway, i do way more illegal things than drive with no cat so that is not a concern of mine

i have driven at highway speeds in 4wd with mny dual range. you can use it in the ran as well. i woud advise using 2wd in rain at slow speeds around town on surface streets(turning involved) but on the highway you will be fine, and you will feel more stability in the steering wheel once engaged. at highway speeds in the rain nothing is really going to bind because the natural effect of hydroplaning will relieve any binding. as far as the rest of it goies, the 4wd is just a pto to the rear, there is no transfer case, averything spins the same as it otherwise would in 2wd

I'm sorry but i moved from that area to misconsion. i uded to go back between ohio and indian fixing various soobs. if you entartain an engine swap a 2.2 will fit as a direct swap in. the 2.2 is a very good motor, better than the s.5 for longevity. mine has 261,000 miles be careful of any small time shops around there as they are going to be oldschool redneck domestic mechanics who never seen a horizontal motor before. your best bet for a "backyard mechanic" would be someone familiar with older volkswagens. there are soob people out there, mainly its a matter if they all know that are not the only one who likes subarus, and a lot of people in that regionm are not connected online as an everyday thing

m12x1.25 w/ 30 deg seat if you go buy some

where can i find tire studs and how are they installed. i have hancook snow tires wit holes for studs. how much would it cost to have 4 tires studded? the tire dealers in wisconsin wont sell them or install them, dont carry them. i am this close to threading sheetmetal screws in the holes