MilesFox

86 is the only year where the connectors were different you can swap the wiring harness off the intakes, or just swap the whole intake as well if you notice the 86's intake boot has a hose between the airbox and itself, where the 88 does not. you can keep this boot and airbox or swap use the boot and airbox fro the 88 if the connector on the distributor is different, you can swap the pigtail f ro it or the whole disty itself as far as the individual coponents that the connectors may differ, they all work the same

introduce an exhaust leak, basically soe sort of air entry behind the y pipe before the muffler. this may get a back fire, or atleast cackling when downshifting

how about slotted adjustable cam pulleys?

what is the timing set at? perhaps it is set too low? the distributor and ecu will autoatically knock back the tiing as necessary, but could only increase to the amount set initially. not turbo related but power related as far as the disty is concerned, on mmy spfi sedan after last years subaru alliance off road meet, my car seemed rather boggy and had no rpm power. pulled over and had a look, the disty set screw was loose and the distributor retarded itself from its own rotation. bumped it back up and the car was normal again

155,000 miles is not terribly too many for an older subaru. chances are, being a one owner car, and the mileage on the care now, it most likely seen some sort of service between 75,000 and 125,000 miles. please report back with the servicehistory if it is available i wouldnt worry about a new motor. if the car runs fine and no onementioned the copression, you would never have thought it needs a new motor. you can run 10w-40 or 15-w40(what i use) oil if you like. as far as additives, you can use valvoline max life oil to prolong the existing seals max life also comes as an additive bottle to put with your favorite oil if you spend mmoney on the car keep it within 500 bucks for the timing belts/cam and crank seals/oil pump SEALS/and NEW water pump. this would be sound investment for the next 75000 miles at least you could attempt the work yourself if you are handy with your hands-on-ness. for the steep hills downshift,use3rd gear even. the rpmswont hurt the otor, better than bogging it down. if you shiftinto a gear to keep the rpms between 3000 and 4000 rpms theotor will perform very well. this is with the short throw of the crank and the gearing of the transmission. the engine is most efficient between 2500 and 3500 rpms andost powerful between 3500 and 4500 rpms

there is a 1/4" inch hose between the therostathousing andthe top of the block, chances are this is leaking

take off the driver side timing belt cover. turn the crank until the dot on the cap faces up at 12'o'clock position. on the flywheel the 3 marks will be in view. turn the crank from this point until you see the 0deg btdc mark once you align the 0 deg mark, check the distributor rotor position. chances are you were 180 off and now its a shotinthe dark with the o deg marks lined up, alicn the rotor to the #1 position, which will be farthest back just to the right of the screw for thecap

pop out the off button and the DEF button. remove the screws. leave the selector unit with the car

indiana, ohio, and presently wisconsin. i represent all 3. i did meetwith a guyin chicago but dontknowanyone in illinois been to iowa too. michigan as well. milwaukee wisconsin is fairly equidistant for this region of the upper midwest imm down for a meet this summer should any of us organizes a place and a day

that is cheaper than what tim paid for a lexus es250 (toyota camry) radiator

with all the malarky of remmoving the crank pulley, the dipstick, the ac/alt assembly, i would recomend reomoving the timing belt covers. this will make future maintenance breezy! normally one would say do the water pump and oil pump at the same time. but if time or dollars are a limit, leaving the belts open will allow for future replacement of the waterpump without removing the crank pulley or a bunch of plastic. doing the oil pump would require removing the belts, but changing the belts would only be a 15 in job using 2 tools lining up the cam pulleys witn no plastic reference marks, the dot on the ca will line up to the valve cover gasket seam read more: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm

once i get y flash card back from T-dub and a pair of AA's then i will put up pics! so long as i dont go to jail or let the car get impounded. believe it or not TRASHWAGON5 holds the record for the longest i have owned, and escaped impoundment all the while, even during the going-out-west wcss5 ordeal, all the way until the EXACT MOMENT it returned to Butler, IN as far as trashwagoneering goes, i think(for now) i will restore it to its forer glory, fix the rust and replace the stereo console with one that isnot chopped up with soe junk rump roast cd player, i would prefer the factory radio and an ASHTRAY i do have an 83 turbo wagon that could lend its doors, sae color but i will gain 4x4 TURBO graphics fixing the rust, obviously it will warant paint, so we may get some sort of trashwagon striping on the original gold body color, the paint from the trim up is PERFECT and will BUFF TO A HIGH GLOSS!

1. There doesn't seem to be enough suction getting to the lever thing. However, there don't seem to be any leaks or cracks...all of the vacuum connections suck at about 20(on a vacuum meter guage thingy) the 4wd is actuated by vacuum to a diaphragm at the transmission. check your vacuum there. suppose the diaphragm itself has a leak? 2. We discovered that you can get it into 4WD by taking the right solenoid hose and switching it to the left solenoid(the one that is activated by pressing the 4WD button) and plugging the left hole with the tip of my finger(This was with the button at the ON position) This caused the dash light to come on also. Suppose the 4wd was working to begin with, switching these hoses will cause the swithc to work inversely. that is, when the button os off the 4wd will be engaged, and it will disengage when pressed 3. While taking the car for a quick spin while making sharp turns the rear was similar to a live (1 piece) axel. the inside wheel would spin, while the outside wheel would slide. Not good. torque bind fro the differences in rotation between the front and rear axles across the transission 4wd "transfer case" (really a direct drive off the front diff) 4. It also got stuck in 4WD until I drove in reverse. same as above. 4wd should be used only on slippery surfaces, ud, snow, sand, gravel HEAVY rain. engage and disengage 4wd with the steering straight ahead while moving. what you describe is typical of 4wd engageent such as when you drive onto a dry surface before disengaging it So what do yall think? i think this: we know the 4wd mechanism itself works. you know you have vacuum. i would suggest the diaphragm is bad on one side, or there may be a vac leak between the solenoids and the diaphragm if you disconnected the diaphragm fro the threaded rod to the tranny you can manually operate the 4wd mechanism in the tranny. this is what subieecch refers to by "getting rid of all that crap and install a lever" to source another diaphragm, any will work fro any 4wd pushbutton tranny, or any full tie tranny with a diff lock one more thing you can try is: do like you did switching the vac lines to engage the 4wd this way. then re-connect them like they were, then turn the button off to see if it disengages. if this works, then you have no vac on the engage side of the diaphragm if this does not work, then you possibly have no vac to the engage solenoid, or that solenoid couldbebad. check for volts at both solenoids

yeah i not trying to be rude or showing off, i have bad luck but it sees to be parallelled by equally good luck. i started out once with a 400 dollar car, soaked in it with parts fro all y other cars/junkers, have about 1500 spent on road trips out west, going to jail, and bringing it back a year later, just to wreck/part out/junk the dan thing. but hey, the costs were worth the experiencees, ,even though i no longer have this car. makes for a good movie, and the driveline exists in 2 cars, one of which is a replica using the same motor. fun ties, like i said. read the first sentence

Found me an 83 Gl wagon 4wd dual range. gold with tan interior. new exhaust, 75,000 original miles! BUT, broken front axle, 3rd gear synchro is out, wont go into lo-range(donut time!) so not bad finding an almost MINT ea81 with a "rwd conversion" picked it up for 200 bucks. removed the bad axle immediately with a haer and a punch the steering was funny so i got underneath and saw a bent radius rod(opposite the bad axle) so at work today u-haul lent its services with the hitch rap, air tools, and the good ol carpet steam cleaner. now only if i had enough money left to put gas it it! the body is ROcK SOLID except fpr the typical rust on the rear wheel arches and the bottos of the doors. rockers are pretty solid but surface rusty i would like this car to last me the next 20 years and 300,000 miles

lets compare this to what it could have been: car: $800 maintanence(water pump, t belts, etc.) 50-75 bucks if you did the work yourself exhaust: 20 bucks for pipe lenghts, 20 bucks for a muffler, use of a welder tint: $50 bucks self-installed head gasket set: $80 altenater: $65 labor (stuff i didnt know how to do): didnt need the heads shaved new engine: still didnt need the heads shaved Tires and misc parts: $150 total:1270, still within the book value now lets compare this to one of my cars 88 sedan: free car less motor, already converted to dual range 4wd fro a 2wd AT motor: exchange for doing work on soobs, with seals also(had to put them on) another crank seal: 10 bucks (after filing the burr off the crank snout) exhaust: 20 dollar cherry bomb, a 5 dollar flange, and soe pipe laying around mass airflow sensor, ecu temp sensor, and 02 sensor: pocket items at junkyard-free tire after driving on rim-25 bucks mounted and valve stem another motor and transmission: 440 dollars, from a parts car, half the miles gaskets:150 dollars(head set, exhaust gaskets 2 oil pan gaskets), u-haul discount from napa, only because i ported the heads impound fees: 340 dollars (non-registered car abandoned in us after stuck) grand total: 850 bucks substitute the impound fees for title and registration total:610 dollars doing the head gaskets instead of swapping from a parts car total: 170 now if i couold find a way to spend 5000 dollars on my 800 dollar car..........

for those who fear electricity read below. for those who dont , just use the ol button alone. the "horn button switch" fro autozone is perfect. any moentary push button for an autootive application will work just fine such as my sedan that has had the pushbutton for over 20,000 miles the only button that "failed" as in the aforementioned fear of electricity, was one that came with a set of foglights to deonstrate the led ring while still in the box on the shelf

do this once: change the heater vent selections fro DEF, BILEV, FLOOR, etc. if all of these settings blow out of the DASH VENTS only, thgis will confirm a vacuum issue look for a rather skinny line coing off the passenger side of the intake going to the vac canister. a lot of ties this falls off when working under the hood, and is overlooked! also follow the plastic lines fro the vac canister to the other side of the car

pump shafts and torque converters fit too. all this fits between ea81 and ea81 turbo and non turbo 3at's the only "physical" difference in torque convertersis the stall rate

if it dont fit in your pocket toss it over the fence! you could replace the u-joints with toyota's, if you had the tools to unstake and press the out as far as the driveshaft, both u-joints are on the rear half, so next time just take the rear half and continue your 11.50 price. you just have to do omre work(separate the 2 after its out of the car) just to leave behind a part that will be useless for anyone else, unless you can talk themm into giving it to you for free. and also, the rear half is the same lenght for any at and mt tranny

its like the time i left this dude in my garage to strip down a soob while i ran after something for a few minutes. when i come back, the dashboard is still in the car. whatever had been removed was broken. and i find dude in the driveway telling me my camper is stuck in 4th gear, and the trashwagon was stuck where it sat. and this dude just doesnt get it, asks be to borrow my car after not returning with it the day before.

(mods im not sure where to post but there is no new post button except for this forum, please move this topic to the most appropriate forum) I have captured a great many of the diagrams from the FSM pdf files posted here recently. the diagrams are JPG format for your viewing and linking ease! here is where they are hosted: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/gallery/diagrams/ feel free to link to any of the diagrams for posts or articles, or download them for your own use

Lafayette, IN. subaru legacy is built there. the BAJA is built EXCLUSIVELY there as well for those of you with legacies look for the indiana logo on the side windows