MilesFox

iwould suppose maybe the head dropped a valve seat.

are you meaning the axle wobblesaround on the tranny stubs? both trannies have 23 spline shafts what part of the axle specifically "moves in and out"?

i find the HAYNES schematics quite helpful myself

pretty much thread the nut on till its snug with a breaker bar, then torque it down 1/4 turn and this will approxiate the torque value

some points to remember about 4wd- engage-disengage 4wd when the wheels are straight if the lever wont disengage, reverse the exact same arc which you had just turned. or run the vehicle straight, backward and forward about the 2-3 car lenghts also if the 4wd is stuck find a patch of sand or gravel, or some grass, maybe goose the throttle to ghirp a tire and relieve its bind fwd and 4wd can be engaged on-the-fly at any speed. 4wd can be driven at any speed. at any one constant speed without accel or decel you can shift into 4wd without clutching you can shift lo range at any speed but its necessary to clutch as if downshifting. 5th gear lo range is about the same as 3rd gear hi. this is what i mean "as if downshifting" lo range can be driven at any speed but its geared uch lower. but 4500 rpms at 45 mph in deep snow is how the car is meant to operate, and the way the engine is designed with its short throw and large bore the subaru owners manual will not recoend using lo range at hiway speeds or speeds excess of 55 mph in 4wd. this is mainly concern for fuel consumption and not so uch the limits of the car welcome to the USMB! you found the most comprehensive compilation of subaru information on all the internet! check out my website as well, http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/subaru.htm

cost vs availability i would suggest trying to find a set of mpfi N/A cams as they definately have ore profile i run them on my spfi with the dual exhaust. y dual pipe is broken, going back to a y-and a cherry bomb. anyway it likes the timing up higher(with half open duals) i put it back down to stock and it dogged out(but this may have been better with the y pipe anyway my car pulls real good in lo rpm and opens up mid to hi rpm comes alive at 2500 rpms, torque curve is more like a turbo(at lo rpm)

good work. keep the old distributor around it should be handy one day:clap:

aftermarket vac solenoids and such coolant temp, throttle position, mass air flow sensors 25 SPLINE EA81 AXLES!!!!! stereo install kits metric bolts subaru size, mainly exhaust studs and mounting hardware(i.e. transission crosseber bolts with bushings bolt kits with nuts and washers for such applications as (exhaust studs and nuts) (engine bellhousing and motor mount) (intake bolt set) (flywheel bolts) (roll pin kits for axles all around) farm out byb and allied armament as vendors for custom parts and lift kits

crank angle sensor. take off the disty cap and let it air out. do you have a spare dist? sounds distribulator related to me. i myself would try to somewhat disassemble the disty and blow it out, etc

take out the 12m bolt. take off the long hex part. the pullet will come away. thread on the long hex part to the stud so you dont lose it. you can femmove the stud by sliding it all the wat to the hole on the end of the slot

Miles Fox's Subaru- Timing belt procedure http://www.ohiosubaru.com/forums/archive/index.php?t-949.html http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?p=15718

i have seen this before, on a loyale at jon's auto and truck. he got a 92 loyale and a parts car 86 sedan. in case the otor was bad anyway. i took of the cap and found the middle little nugget had fallen out. jon was surprised, gave e 10 bucks on the spot. gave e the parts car(runs and drive) and sold the loyale for $2,300

going to the BABE rally on the 23rd, so it will cut close with the proposed schedule this sumer

weep hole on the wather pump. when the car is warm its drying off faster than it can drip. the puddle under the car would be the overnite accumulations of drips off a cold motor

i'll go ahead and take credit for any inspirations:brow: !! anyway, covered vs not covered. oil and gunk vs projectile/debris open belts: pros- visual inspection. less work to do belts or seals or water/oil pump cleaner look. oil that leaks can fling off or drip away, rather than accumulate on the belts. if the belt is getting bad you will see it right away, rather than poking fingers thru holes off the side of the road cons- keep your loose rags tucked away securely! speculation about the bearings in the idler pulleys from being exposed. watch danglies when under the hood(as you would with all the rest of the belts anyways) projectiles/debris vs oil and gunk: i like a clean looking motor. uf anything leaks the ol car wash will take care of that. so far the ONLY REPORTED FAILURE DUE TO OPEN BELTS was from a loose rag that caught around the crankshaft, blowing both belts. this was on my car. so far not a problem in tall weeds, taller than myself, saplings, rocks, gravel, snow, water, mud. every now and then i'll find the evaporation canister riding on top of the timing belt, no harm(flip it back over the spfi inlet tube) one time i lost either a bolt or the oil fill cap, somtething of that nature, i discovered it riding atop the driver side belt between the oil pump and the tensioner it is to my belief and might as well say from seeing so myself, any debris are going to be knocked away by spinning belts before they would have a chance to get anywhere i might as well had a hay bail under my radiator when i pulled the motor but the belts have been just fine! tall grass and depris are more likely to puncture the radiator than to throw a belt last and not least. why worry when all you need is a spare belt and a 12mm deep socket?

put me in on this one

lots o' baja'n, open belts all day long. many motors, any miles (i invented open belts)

the ea82 strut cap SHOULD fit on the ej strut, thus not having to slot the holes. the axles will be 25spline,the proper lenght. 2wd impreza 1.8, 91 legacy 2wd AT are 23 splines work may involve the tie rod ends. the ball joint hole may need drilled out, can use xt6 lower control

suppose when you unplug the sensor and the car thinks its cold, wouldit run better?and if so there is your proble with the tmp sensor try unplugging the maf while the car runs. if the car stalls the maf should be good, but if it keeps running the maf is bad

you should get about 40-50 psi at 2500 rpms,per the HAYNES manual

check the engine temp sensor. its the one on the therostat housing with the green pigtail see if the car runs different when unplugged, or try cleaning the contacts pocket item at the junkyard, just bring the 17m wrench may as well get the MAF sensor too, just unscrew it fro the housing. be careful not to break off the filamments(if you put it in your pocket) beware that loyale MAF fits differently than pre loyale spfi's with the shape of the hole on the housing, ,but work the sae essentially

im in the iddle of a 2wdstickto4wd5spd conversion rught now. did the sae for soeone elses car. converted a few fwd autos to 4wd stick as well this essage board is where you'll find it, search for "4wd conversion"

tou will have to figure out the wiring for the reverse lights, or simplt mount a pair of rear facing fog lights and a toggle and leave it at that, but if you got the reverse4 lights working you can use the fog lights in conjunction or independently as far as the heutral safety, the car end of the connecotor for the AT shifter handle, its the 2 fattestwires in the iddle, jump them together and the key will work the starter or just use a pushbutton:D

speaking of porting and thin walls in the passages, i was porting a pair opf carb heads when i went through the exhaust wall to the dead space around the port casting where it would be above the motor mount. i craed jb weld putty in this cavity to block the hole, but i alsi figured it woule reinforce the head around the exhaust port, and act as a heat sink to keep any one particular spot fro being too hot. filled in the other head too for the sake of reinforcement and heat transfer i would consider doing this again to any other heads while they are apart. i would consider this a modification

if the threads seem intact enough to hold torque, use some loc-tite red to hold them in place i tile to use hi temp copper silicone rtv on both sides of the gasket. i have also tried the "gasket sandwich" with silicone when inventing ways to keep the exhaust. on. sure enough when you get the y pipe to stay on the heads the rest of the exhaust will fall apart!