MilesFox

have you pulled the engine codes? maybe the TPS is bad my car sometimes bogs a little at low rpm upon acceleration. my ecs stays on code 32 o2 sensor. i conneced a grond to the exhaust, the car would run good and the ecs light still on. then the ecs light goes off, i can feel a difference in the way she pulls and the smell of the exhaust. but every now and the n the ecs light returns and the car bogs out again it hasnt been so bad lately, no code pulling this time. maybe its off just enought o affect how it runs but not throw a code my exhaust is not hung on the mount below the tranny, i have read about the o2 sensor grounds thru the exhaust(and not the exhaust stud on the head) and adding a ground wire seems to be helping, although it took the car 200 miles to notice it if i have any more problems my next move would be throttle pos sensorn related, my car is an 88 sedan with a motor from an 86 wagon and the spfi intake form a 91 loyale

keep the stock y pipe intackct if its not rusted through i have a cherry bomb on mine, i am using the stock y pipe and have a cherry bomb mated up to the flange and custom length after that the stock y is perfect for the engines performance characteristics, but if you have a new y pipe made keep it close to the original's dimensions. use 1 3/4 oe 1 7/8" pipe till it joins into one, and use 2 or 2 1/4 after that make the muffler in the middle after the y pipe, and rn open pipe thereafter

i know of 2 guys who bought perfectly good soobs because of improperly installed belts one was an xt6 that was abandonned at a shop, the guy got it and checjked the belts, it ran like a scalded dog and then he parted it out(no title) the other guy bought an 88 dl for 85 bucks, after the previous owner paid 400 bucks to have the belts done. i took a look at it and sure enough the belts were on wrong. re aligned the belts and now the car has seen many miles with nmo problems i wrote the timing belt article, the original article is on my website http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/subaruframe.htm

as long as the car was not left in 4wd it would be ok, as the rear wheels and driveshaft would spin freely and is not engaged with the tranny in front wheel drive towing on all 4 is ok for a few miles, but the pump in the tranny wont be circulating the atf but in fwd mode if the front was on the tow truck and the back wheels on the ground this is ok

tim hansen, i could see about making a leg of the power tour we'll discuss this when i arrive to wisconsintune

there is a dust cover on the bottom of the bellhousing, you can remove that and the wrench may just fall out

check the fuse for the ign and charge circuit also check the wires at the back of hte alternator to see if they energize and to see if there is continuity from the pwer lead to the battery with the key on, these fuses should have power on both sides. i fried something in my car installing a radio, and the ecu had no power, because i accidentally grounded out the green wire to the radio(hot at all times) i was a moment away from tearing out the dash until i jumped a wire from the battery to the green wire, and behold i had power to the ecu and the car runs now. this is temporary till i sort thru the wiring harness. check for 12 volts at the green wire. if its not present you can try what i did, at your own risk

get ahold of the Hatch Patrol guys as they have built ea81 with spfi pistons for higher compression and such. dont know all the details about the buld but i have seen one example in person, they also used a turbo crosspipe and built up an exhaust from it, instead of using a y pipe

the inner side of the axle is called the DOJ (double offset joint) and it allows for the travel of the suspension. when these go out you will feel it tug on the steering wheel upon acceleration or deceleration, the trasition between such the inner side of the axle can be rebuilt yourself rather easily, and taking the axle out of hte knuckle side is not required. what i would do is get a new boot kit, it will come with clamps and grease. take the axle aprt and clean out the grease and inspect for garring or chunks of metal. if everything looks good go ahead and reboot it with new grease, if it looks bad then get a whole axle

i was listening to paul harvey on the AM radio and they siad there is a prakn in the UK where people will bust out a window to parked cars on hills and release the handbrake to watch the carnage someone did this to my car, i went out to go to work and found my car a block down the road up against a curb. left the door unlocked, no broken window, in fact, its the same sedan tomrhere has right now anyway email me an addressand i'll pull it up on the mapquest on my way to milwaukee

one method which i like to practice, as ina n off the side of the road repar(change axle) loosen the castle nut on the bottom of the ball joint. thread the nut on backwards so that it is flush with the bottom of the stud. place a jack on the nut and jack it up so that it loads up the sispension. use a 3 lb hammer to tap on the lower control arm on both sides and the tension of the spring will pop the lower control arm down and away from the ball joint use a long bar about 3 ft long, feed it thru under the axle so that it rides along the inside of the raduis rod and wedge it into the radius rod mont. then you can push down on the bar to pop the ball joint stud out of the lower control arm hole(after you take the nut off!)

you can use a hammer to whack the side of the ball tie rod end, and tap on the knucle where it goes thru, and a lot of times this will pop it out

the speedometer cable is soleley mechanical, there is no electrical to it its possible that if you were working under the hood you may have tugged on it and popped it off the back of the cluster. i have seen this happen when someone was changing the heater hoses, and pulled it out from behind the cluster

check the continuity of the battery cable that leads to the starter. i have seen cables that look good baut have a break inside the sheath of the cable. if that cable were to be bad, you still would have power to the fuse links, but not to the starter itself

a 4x4 with lo range would be better than a turbo without lo range, as gearing will play more in towning and hlls than horsepower. as far as what you can tow, i have never towed a boat, but i have towd other subarus with my towbar and 88 sedan, 2wd at to 4wd 5spd conversion towing another soob on the highway i can go 55 mph in 4th gear at about 35oo rpm, once on the highway it wuld carry 5th gear ok but the occasional downshift to 4th for hills the nice thing about a dual range is you can take off in low thru 3rd then shift into hi. if this were to be tha case on pavement only, you could remove the rear half of the driveshaft to use lo range 5th gear lo is just a tad taller than 3rd gear hi if you are talking about a john boat or aluminum vessel, you shouldnt have any problems, and all the 5th gear you want if you can trailer the boat versus loading it on the roof, i would recommend towning as anything on the top will create a bunch of aerodynamic drag that will bog you down at highway speeds

cleveland isnt far i could alwas come out and give a hand, or maybe find some parts for you

http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm

aany ea82 front window glass is the same between wagon and sedan, 85-94. manual glass will fit on power rail and vice versa the only difference is the back door windows, the wagon has a different profile than the sedan i got a fiew pieces of glass myself, which side do you need? i may be rolling out to wisconsion i could leave the window for you wherever you will be. let me know what side you need and if you are interested, my email is milesfox@yahoo.com

DAMMIT!

would ea81 nuts and washers work?

so how dos that thing run now? did you get the coil; pack problem solved? the last time i saw some donting was mostly dust and dirt, i was inside and missed some of it.aybe you should send a tape to the butler maintenance dept!

if there are no stampings on the washer, you will see that it is slightly convex, the convex side will face out and the concave side in, so that it clamps down along the outer diameter of the cone washer the spacer, when you pack the bearings with grease pack in the space around the outside fo he spacer as well if the the axle stub can be driven out in the same fashion as a front cv spindle, once you remvoe the rear axle first. there are roll pins on both sides of one axle, drop the diff from the rear hanger and move it sideways to take out he axle

yo tim its likely i could make the wisconsin rather immediately after my duration here in columbus. i will be sitting on a little bit of $$$ for fuel and insurance. plus there is a guy along the way in indiana looking for a motor, if i could set something up with him tht would go a long way. soon woule be better than leter as i have a whole month to do things and wont have to be back till my court date on may 16. what about the wagon in iowa, maybe a chance at running after it? officer planck said they can relaese the 3 tapes see what you can do about that as if i could bring them to you

sounds like the axle tou have is too big, a 25 spline on a 23 sline tranny. what tranny do you have? 5sods have 23 splines, and turbo 5spds have 25 splines. all automatics have 23 splines the roll pin on the inside does not take any toque load. the splines take the torque. the pin is htere to keep the axle from sliding off the splines if the axle fit loosely over the spline it is indeed the wrong one if you want the fattest axles or if you converted a turbo 5spd to a dual range non turbo 5spd, you can order or look for axles that go to a 3spd automatic turbo, as they have the same diameter of the shaft and doj as a turbo axle, and the spline count is correct for any 23 spline tranny otherwise, you can use any 3spd automatic turbo or non turbo axle, 4wd, 2wd, and non turbo 5spd 2wd and 5wd axles

no the rear diff wont bind since the rear is open, and the front is open, any differences in wheel speed will transfer across the car diagonally now, one of the axles on the front will be locked in with one of the axles on the rear. so this means that when you are turning, the axle that is MISSING will take up the slack and expell it to thin air, the other axle on front will be going withthe free spinning wheel on the inside of hte rear while turning. so when you are turning the power to the outside wheel that is sriving the car wil be transferred to the free axle stub in the air now the one thing youDONT want to do is try to go betwin 2wd and 4wd while rolling, because the front diff will not be engaged withteh front wheels, and engaging or disengaging will grind the center locking gear because of the differences of speed between a rolling rear diff and an idle front now, thisa would be safe at a stop, but there is no need to do so once its in 4wd(rwd) it will stay engaged all the time unless you move the lever, and it wont pop out lie say, going too fast in reverse and it pos into neautral if you have a dual range tranny with hi and lo, you can go between hi and lo in and out all day long and not hurt anything, since both hi and lo will still be engaged as 4wd(rwd). so you can leave it in hi for cruising or drop it into lo for holeshots