MilesFox

yeah you can, we drove the RX with the diff locked and no rear axles. as far as the diff lock dont actuate it while the car is moving!!!!! leave it locked and dont touch it as far as the driveshaft just take out the rear half, leave the front half mounted to plug the tranny.

well what you can do is use your own switch to simulate tha fan sensor, and kick on the fan manually using its same circuit on the sensor itself, the sensor is actually a switch, and when it closes it continues the path to ground. you could wire up a switch in between the wires that plug to the sensor, or just splice into the ground wire and run it to your switch(to ground). having it the 2nd way will allow the thermo swithc to work(with a good one) with the option of manual activation

one way to you have this vac leak is that all of the other heater selections still blow out of the dash vents only under the hood on the passenger side firewall there is a white vacuum canister, and there should be a skinny hose going toward the motor. make sure this hose is connected. the 4wd uses vacuum pressure to actuate itself

sounds like the inner end of the axle, the DOJ. generally the noise comes and goes depending on the torque load, (gas vs. coasting) the good thing about this is the inner side is rebuildable, if you had a parts axle around you can change the race or the balls if you had to. if you take it apart and clean it up good, you could put a new boot and grease and get more life out of that axle. a likely candidate for a parts axle would be one that is broken on the cv end, but good on the doj end. do you feel any wobbling or jerking of the steering wheel? as the inner side will do that as it starts to get too bad as far as the cat goes, it generates a lot of heat that wears out the boot. the cat has a metal casing around it. but you can take a piece of sheetmatal, say leftover construction aluminum, and make a shield and atatch it with self tapping scres. this will go a long way for the inner boot on that side.

i would figure there should be some kind of check valve for the vac system jon as the throttle plate opens and air rushes into the cylinders, there is an equalizing of pressure to the outside, so therefore vacuum will decrease. as far as intake gaskets go, if there was a profound vac leak the car would idle fast and run lean. but there is a coolant passage as well as the air passage, it is possible for the coolant side to be bad and ywt the port side to still seal i would consider changing the gaskets if you could eliminate othere sources that may be the problem. gaskets are cheap, and there are only 6 bolts total to the intake, its designed to come off all in one piece, including the hoses. there is a small hose under the intake to the block for coolant, it by the thermostat, check that hose for leakage as well as the ones behind the throttle body. 1/4" hose will fit as replacements make sure if taking the intake bolts out TURN THE BOLT SLOWLY with even pressure, dont jerk on the tool, so the torque wont twist the bolt faster than it will loosen, you dont want to twist them off!

what does the oil pressure look like. there is also an inner o-ring on the inside of the pump. without that the oil pump wont make any pressure

1. use a 3/16"inch punch to knock out the pin on the inner side. disconnect the balljoint either with a separator fork, undoing the pinch bolt, or by dismounting the lower control arm. remove the 36mm axle nut and take off the rotor and caliper, and the caliper bracket. drive the axle out using a 3lb hammer and something to protect the axle threads, i like to but the round end of a ball peene hammer agaist the dimple on the axle shaft. to put it together, put the inner side on first, then slip the axle shaft thru the knuckle. tap around the knuckle with ahammer to get the axle shafty to poke thru. put the nut on a nd turn it so it draws the axle thru enough to put the rotor on, then do the same till you can get the washers on. make sure the round washer faces the concave side inward. 2. read this http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm 3. you can connect a aftermarket tach to the - coil terminal

the haynes manual "subaru 1600 & 1800 has pretty good electrical schematics for all models, and has a chapter for testing sensors and engine components

the disappearing coolant and the vents switching to ac under load i would suspect the intake gaskets i swapped a motro for a dude, he thought his heads were messed up. turned out to be a bad intake gasket, there is a coolant passage thru the intake and intake port

since you got a jdm motor it must have sat for a while without running, the lifters can go dry. now that it all runs it will just have to pump themselves back up. run the engine nice and warm and let the oil pressure do its trck, the noise should go away after you start putting miles on the motor

undo the 2 bolts at the bottom of the struts, and pop it out of the knuckle. after that unbolt it from the top and pull it out. you will have to disconnect the brake line from the caliper to get it off the strut bracket

you will want to advance your timing for power at higher rpms. try 22 deg

try clocking the tps sensor, you can loosen the screws and turn it a degree or 2 either way, makes the car think the throttel is a little more open or close, this may clear it up a little. it helped on our rx when danny had it. before the car was jerky at about 2000 rpm till you mash it

you can cut the bad section of line out and splice in the new section with COMPRESSION FITTINGS. get a new length of line from napa, they will have fittings. cit the one end off and splice that to the old line with the compression fitting, and the other end you can screw into the original brake fitting make sure your cuts are clean, a hacksaw or a dremel will do the job. the fittings and lines will be 3/16"

yep yep yep, that is the piece i leave in, and also cut the hole off in front of the oil pump. this is how i have my cars set up, as well as 3 of alleyboy's cars

try checking for burnt wires that may be shorting out in the ign circuit, around the coil also check the pink clip near the passenger strut tower if there is still volts to the coil it will run with the key off. if you want to fix this problem cheap put a switch between the + coil terminal and its power lead

i like to use a wire wheel on a bench grider, or a wire wheel for a drill or drill press. also if you have any kind of acid cleaning chemical that deals with rust or hard water stains, toilet bowl cleaner, it will help get in all the pits

hook up mthe fuel pump relay to the ej ecu

if you plug the green test connectors in, then turn the key on, the fuel pump should cycle on and off. cneck for voltage in this mode. if you dont have voltage check the relay. the ecu is in the trunk, not sure where the relay is. i believe the fuel pump relay has a green connector

i would go with the broken timing belt idea. i take it the car didnt run when you bought it. take the disty cap off and see if it turns when you crank. if it doesnt then you have a broken belt

the subaru radio has a common ground for the speakers. left and right, 2 grounds, one each for front and rear when you connect an aftermarket unit you will use one ground from either left speaker for both the front and back, and vice versa for the right. the leftover 2 ground wires on the aftermarket unit will not be used

the clutch cable may be too loose causing the clutch to drag with the pedal depressed. also, if its too tight, the pedal will engage at its higher position and grab all at once at the last moment when adjusting the clutch cable, you want it to be pretty much finger tight and a turn or two. you want it to take the slacjk out but not yey pull in the clutch fork. make sure the lock nut is tight or the cable can loosen itself as you drive

the throwout bearing will fit onto the shaft, and the tongs on the side will be horizontal to the fork. there should be a pair of clips that hold it on, they look like paper clips somewhat, and one will point up and the other will point down. the clips fit into a small hole on either side of the fork and go around the tongs on the bearing

if the splines seem sloppy on the new axles, try inspecting the splines on the hub itselfalso you should have the height adjustable struts, if they are maxed out they can wear on the axles. try lowering them to half way if they are cranked up

on a wagon you can mount the amp in the floor box in back. lift up the carpet and there is the smuggler's box! also on a wagon you may be able to fit an amp under the bottom of the back seat on my car i have the amp on the ceiling, mounted with screws to some modifications under the headliner, and with that, i have a pair of 8's under the seat with a foam enclosure that seals up against the carpet if anything you mount will be visible, be sure to have it mounted securely to foil any would be thief's tools or time. if you park in a high risk area you are almost better off with a door unlocked, cause if they were gonna steal it anyway, at least you wont have a broken window if you have a wagon you can mount everything under the rear cargo cover if you have one. i have a 3-door, and i made a cover out of a suzuki tracker piece modified to fit the car in a sedan you can mount the box close to the back seats, way up under