MilesFox

really if you took the effort you can throw the whole 4spd in the rx with the ea81, its a little more involved say tou will need a tranny mount and a pedal assembly, but its all bolt on from there. you would be better to find an ea81 flexplate with the right bolts, since ea81 bolts are skinnier and automatic bolts are shorter. aside from the flexplate, you can use the existing one if you find the right bolts(hardware may have them). the holes on the ea82 flex plate are bigger then the bolts for ea81, but the 'plate will center on the crank anyway, and the bolts will torque it still.

its the mass air flow sensor, its located on the air box where the intake hose clamps to. normally when this is disconnected, or the hose is disconnected, the car will start and run for about 5 seconds then die

are the clamps to the intake loose, any unplugged hoses. wire to the MAF loose?

you can use the ea81 flexplate, the ea81 and ea82 auto trannies are the same. i think you r problem with the turbo lies in with the cooling system or something related to keep it blowing hg

yeah they will be 23 splines, all 3at turbos are. but i dont know if it has the fat doj on the ea81 axle. ea82 turbo 3spds have the fat doj for the large dia. axle (3 bands)

your oil may possibly be coming from the oil pump seal. there is no oil passages in the exhaust stud, but, however, oil will have a tendency to soak and draw up into threads. sometimes if you take heads off you will find oil sludge baked into the threads

if you can find a parts car get the motor, or atleast everything to it and the heads, the ecu. cut off all the clips to the car side, as well as the ecu clips. you can make your own wiring in between. you can use your existing fuel pump and coil assembly, and most likely the same distributor(depends on the shape of the plug) you will have to get a turbo motor or heads because the ports are different for the turbo intake, and the turbo doesnt fit with teh spfi manifold in stock fasion

yippee! took her for a ride. the throttle is smooth other than where the bulk of the carpet hits the gas pedal. she idles a little fast, enough to diesel when off. i had to wire the coil to a switch as for some reason the +coil terminal is inly showing 13 volts. i think there is an ambient short somewhere behind the dash(hence why this car has a carb motor) i do plan on going back to turbo eventually, have the parts and all..................... anyway, i need to swap back in my carb dist. it has one from an 86 turbo now since i swapped it in thinking it had a bad disty. the car likes to cut out at rpm but seems fine under load. i like high rpms i want them back!

well i was out in the alley parting off a throttle cable from the 86 sedan. im going to replace the one in the rx, with a carb cable for the carb motor, the turbo cable was too long and began to fray with all the custom mounting i had to do for it.

welcome! glad you found the information helpful. enjoy your timing belts for the next 60,000 miles. enjoy all the snow coming your way!

bent trailing arm doesnt help much either

i have heard of lsd's being swapped into front diffs, but i dont know what's all involved.

get the whole motor,trans, and driveline from the legacy. pull the motor and have the yard man flip the car over. take the whole underneath! take some bolt cutters for the parking brake cables if you didnt undo them from inside the car. take some help, too. one time we went to a yard and got the whole underside of a legacy and its motor, as well as a motro and trans from an xt, ad the rear end from a wagon, some axles, all in about 3 hours time. we were pressed for time so we took the legacy suspension off as one unit and dragged it with the truck outsude the gates, where we later broke it down and loaded it up

rwd with a broken front axle is a no-go for snow! the rx had a stub axle in front because it broke in fall. the car has been sitting mostly as of recent. it snowed 8 inches overnight. i tried to move the car in the alley and got stuck. after a lot of 3rd gear wheelspin and near-headgasket-blowing flogging. i gave it a rest and decided to put the axle in where it sat. much easier that way, it walked right out. yeah i figured i should have put the axle in before it snowed, but i though i would have fun with RWD. well, not in 8 inches of snow!

as corky says you can also swap to 5 lugs. you would either have to some modification of the ball joint hole and tie rod holes on the 5 lug knuckle and ea81 lower control arm. the axle for a 5 lug you can use an xt6 or legacy axle, but once again these axles are too long. and an ea81 pressthru type outer cv is different than the splined cv of the 5 lug axle. but also, the suspension mod mentioned above for ea82 axles will also accomodate the 5 lug setup as if it were on an ea82 but you will have to modify the strut cap or tower to use an ea82 or xt6/2wd legacy strut. if you go with an ea82 platform for a suspension mod you can swap an ea82 strut cap onto an xt6/2wd legacy strut. or you can adapt on the ea81 strut cap there is a little more involved with tierods too for this, just throwing up possible combinations

i highly recommend skipping the toll road(80-90) thru the indiana stretch, as a lot of it is under construction, the weather, chicago etc. you can take us 30, jump on it from joliet il, you can take it thru to fort wayne. as far as the toll road, there are signs posted from indy north that say "expect long delays) this route will bring you through fort wayne, IN, feel free to stop by! if you want to take the toll road from fort wayne you can jog back nortn, its not so bad from there going east. but its all toll road pretty much between chicago and toledo. i would take another route around that if toll costs are an issue(toll+axle=axle< towing) i once took a van and trailet to chicago, 2 azle trailer i was hitting 4 dollar toll booths for the extra axles

http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/parkingbrake.htm are all the clips in place, especially the on eon the caliper end of the cable?

i strongly recomment using a 1/4" drive ratchet when turning these 10mm bolts that thread into aluminum. its too easy to over torque them, the smallet tool lets you feel the torque more. you can tighten down a bolt and it feels like its starting to tighten. at that point it is tight, and any more will strip the thread or even snap the bolts. if you do need to get some torque on them turn the bolt SLOWLY, with slight pressure, so that you arent turning the bolt faster than it can torque up one example is people breaking off intake bolts. the bolts will come out, but if you tturn them too fast you can snap them off without warning! now, you have floppy cam retainer because the hle is stripped out. on one car i have seen a distributor skip a gear, i pulled it out and seen the tooth was chunked. after pulling the cam i realizes that the previous mechanic had striipped out the cam retainer bolts, and the cam "walked" along its bore and this is what led to the disty jumping gear you may have to re-tap or helicoil these holes, maybe you can get away with tapping in a standard thread bolt. if you are reluctant to pull the motor, you can remove the anti pitch bar, unbilt the motor mounts from the crossmember, and place a jack on the trans behind the motor, or a block of wood on the oil pan. you will be able to raise the motor several inches that way. you may have to go the rout of pulling the cam boxes themselves to get good access to tap them or to have to replace them. i recommend pulling the motor if you are going to take tese off, and you can get at the rear seal too. but, you can take them off with the moto in the car, but the cam cover bolts will be close to the framerail and it may be difficult to get your tools on them, or to get the bolts out without your socket hitting the frame. its more a pain to try installing the cam box motor-incar because the rockers will fall out or get crooked, hence suggestion of pulling the motor. if you do go as far as pulling the cam boxes, you will want to use grey anaerobic silicone(permatex ultra grey, import grey) to seal it up. also, there is an o-ring on the bottom corner for an oil passage, you will want to check or replace those also it doesnt take much torque on these little bolts, my rule of thumb is use a 1/4 drive tool, turn by hand till snug(hand tight) then torque 1/4 turn. if the bolt feels like it wants to turn more, the bolt is at its stretch threshhold and dont turn it any more if you can get the bolt to somewhat catch a tread, try some lock-tite and be VERY CAREFUL with your torque, as long as it can keep the retainer from moving out you will be ok

did the dealer balance the tires. do you feel the vibration in your seat or just the steering. try moving the front tires to the back and see if that changes anything

the legacy trans will have 25 spline axle stubs on the tranny. the hatch has 23 splines now an ea82 axle from a turbo or full time has a 25 spline axle. the doj is considerably bigger than 2wd and most 4wd, but its the same diameter as the legacy axle ea82 3spd automatic turbos have the fat doj and 23 splines. you could attempt tpo put the 25 spline doj onto an ea81 axle, but diameter might be an issue. maybe check out some ea81T axles, but i dont know if they use the small or large doj. depending on the diameter of the axles themselves you may be able to swap the 25 spline doj and the unternal bearings onto an ea81 axle shaft another option would be to offset the lower control arm mount one witdth behind the original to acommodate an ea82 axle and lower control arm. this will make your front track a hair wider and you will have more wheel travel, and it also increases negative camber you can avoid the suspension mod if you have custom built axles. what i would do if i was you is round up some spare axles and compare them, take them apart if you have to to compare

the aav valve introduces a "false vacuum leak" when the engine is cold, and then closes off as it warms. if it is not functioning properly it may still be introducing a leak. run the motor till its warm and try punching off the hose that leads to the intake manifold, and see if that changes the idle.

you can undo the screws that hold the console in place and let the cosole sit out enough to fill the gap of the radio, if you can figure a way to slot the holes to reinsert the screws.

when putting the whole works back together, thread in the bolts for the cam pulley till snug by hand, install the belts, then torque the 3 bolts, the belt will hold everything still. be careful not to snap them off. if you dont have a torque wrench snug the bolts down bty hand with a 1/4 drive ratchet, then 1/4 turn past snug

how about on memorial day, like the alliance meets in butler. if anyone is bust then smewhere between march and april-may. so far at the junk yards this one place has been letting us haul a truckload out for a bill split between 4 people. i am definately down for a c-bus meet. i ts a pretty good central ground for a lot of us subaru people. i could see another subaru alliance meet in columbus minus the butler PD;)

i like them under the instrument bezel, where the hazard and fan knobs are. the lights tie in with the clip to the ashtray light. lights in the vent too! dont trash your 3-door!