MilesFox

take off the fan and radiator to pull the motor jack up the TRANNY so that the motor mount studs come out of their hole. do tha same for installation the ENTIRE FRONT CROSSMEMBER< MOTOR< TRANS< SUSPENSION, can be dropped as one unit. but you have to get the car up in the air to drag the whole thing out. same can be done to install, i installed my crossmember, lower control arms, 5spd trans and ej22 as a built unit into my 87 wagon i left the struts, axles, and brake lines hang on the car from the strut tower, just disconnected the tie rod and ball joints if you pull all that, disconnect the parking brake cables from the lever, and let them come out with the frame

i run without belt covers. i drove 2300 miles west with open covers and used belts. the RX has open belts. the motor we put together for alleyboy has open belts i have never had a problem wiht the belts jumping, or debris. i keep the plastic piece behind the idler pul;ley there, because that looks to be the only place anything can find its way in the belt(debris) the weather may shorten the life of the belt, for example, a new belt may go as long as 100,000 miles, but should go all of its recommended 60,000 miles at least. and with open belts, you can replace the belts in 20 minutes, all you have to do is take off the ps and alt belts. saves you from having to pull the crank pulley, the ac mounts, and the dipstick the oil pump is also easily serviced from under the car i swear by it

doing an ea81(xt turbo) will need an adapter plate. but if you do that, and go with an ej22 motor later, the ej22 has a different bellhousuing(you will need another adapter) and it will have another ecu. something to keep in mind, but nothing to stop you from doing it

i dont expect anyone to kiss my A. i post from EXPERIENCE, what has worked for me. let it be up to the one who asks to decide what to do with his car, i just give some options to consider. believe you me, i have done some "unconventional" practices to soobs, and thay are all good

m10 (10mm dia.) 1.25 thread pitch(metric)

skip, the haynes manual that every one hatges so much, has scheduled maintenance. anyone who can READ the haynes book rather than just look at pictures, they can understand how to fix a subaru if he wants to do his timing belts, he can READ this http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm

the mounting is diferent between the doors? try rx sedan mirrors

the ignition amplifier module takes the signal from the ecu, and amps it enough to trigger the coil. that is the round nougat on the COIL BRACKET. you can get one at the junkyard for any fuel injected soob. the sensor in the distributor is the CRANK ANGLE SENSOR, and it is optical, with a disc and 360 noches.the ignitor is most likely, having gone bad 20 min after a new coil if for whatever reason the wires on the disty is bad, the wire itself will unplug and swap if it were determined the sensor in the disty was bad, it would be more economical to replacethe whole dist with a known working unit

a dude at work, an auto student, got me a full schemaic for the legacy, that will help me out with the extra and same colored wires. i have what i got figured out connected and soldered. all of the ngine sensors are wired to the ecu, but i need to hook up power and grounds, fuel pump relay, and a bunch of other maybe eliminate loose ends

john, good to go with theheads, as i have seen cracked ones in perfectly running cars. the staking of the valve seats will help the head last LONGER, even tough it will hold up anyway

5spd dual range will swap in the same, mount the same, existing driveshaft can be used. just make sure your rear diff is 3.9, if not, het the diff with trans. make sure trans has shifter your existing clutch and flywheel will work. all you need to swap out inside is the shifter cover plate so, you need only: trans, diff(if yours is a 3.7) and the shifter plate

maybe the ignitor dooked. mine dooked when i was swapping distributors, i had to replace it on my 87 turbo, fixed her right up

i submitted pics of trashwagon 3(79 pinto) to beaterz.com many moons ago, but it eppears thet the site has been idle for the last couple of years

come on skip, give the guy more credit for what you dont think he knows. im sure the guy can read if it DOES say ea82, and the guy isnt on mushrooms, then, it must be transplanted. the ea82 will fit rather easily, and anyone who can swap a motor could possibly inadvetently invent the upgrade without knowing about the mod to begin with, "just swapping in another subaru motor"

but when a diff is locked, it behaves like a part time unit. my point "This kind of speak is not appropriate for the USMB, except for moderators" knowing what the subaru tastes like will help please all your 5 senses

hub and axle. unless you swap to a 25 spline tranny, OR see if a 23 splined trubo ea82 doj will fit on a legacy axle?

i know that on an analog gauge, the part behind the prndl on autos and 4wd hi/lo on mys will swap out. so the light assembly itself must swap out? dont know for sure on the digi. the bulbs are kind of like christmas lightsm (the bulb part)

use a brass wheel for the drill chuck. the brass is almost softer than the aluminum, and it wont scratch, and it will buff the metal and make it have a "hardened waxed" look

i would say the man only questions it because he is not too experienced in the soobs, as if he doesnt see them very often but perfectly good heads have cracks in them, cracks are expected but if the guy knows what he is doing and trusts his own work, i say its a go what i would think you could have him do is stake the valve seats in, so they dont drop out not that they will all of a sudden, but i have seen heads let go of valve seats, if the cracks expand too large but if the crack is small enough you cant relly catch it on a fingernail, youre ok. as long as the crack doesnt splay open, and the cracks are flush, there is nothing to be too concerned about

look again

last year's attraction

get yourself a test light or a multimeter, to see if yo have power at the coil also, the haynes manual has very useful wiring schematics you can go from, for troubleshooting

does it have a diff lock? licking the center diff will make it behave like a part time unit in 4wd

the easiest way i have ever done is partially pulled the motor what i did was pull the radiator, removed the niuts from the motor mounts, and disconnected the heater hose. i used a crane to pick the motor up enough to slikd it forward in the car. i had a jack under the tranny so the motor would slide away without the motor mouhts catching. took me about 2 hours, taking my time

i would guess they are bulbs, the little 194 looking but smaller bulbs .i can tell you for sure they are bulbs in analog clusters. my car has a digi dash, but its a 5spd from my experience jumping the neutral safety, i hve found that the harness in the shifter itself lights the indicators, so lift up the console plate and do some troubleshooting there, too to remove the digital cluster, remove the screws on the bottom edge of the instrument bezel. pop out the OFF and DEF buttons on the heater control, remove the 2 screws remove more screws on the underside of the top, and all your switchg knobs. the area of the bezel arnd the ventsw snaps in hope this gives you an idea of what to get into