MilesFox

in my opinion i would rather use larger tires and rims to fill in the wheel wells rather than lower the ride. an example would be drilled chevy rims with camaro tires if you get properly sized bigger wheels, even though you might GAIN ground clearance, the stance will still be in proportion

try stacking some washers between the frame mounts and the body "Miles Fox Kit" 3 bucks in washers, to drop it down a half inch, if that will be enough. easier than chopping the swaybar

ok, the agreed date has been narrowed down to late may, early june. if anyone has ideas for which week would be best, lets hear it. labor day may be out of the question, because josh's womand bday falls on the holiday, he's whipped!

but how many ricer import type fellas that would buy the stuff off ebay would be sportin an ea82? not around here, thats for sure!!

http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm check this out. might as well do your timing belts and water pump wrote it myself! with pics

for the most economical approach, i would swap on the carter/weber and its intake as a unit. only 2 gaskets and 6 bolts to do so the 2wd tranny will fit witn no mods. just take out the driveshaft. you can leave in the rear diff and axles, but you can take them out just the same. as far as the 2wd tranny, just swap over the clutch disc and pressure plate. use the existing flywheel the throuwout bearing may be different, you should be able to use the 4wd pressure plate with the 2wd clutch disc(the 4wd and 2wd clutch has a different spline for the tranny shaft) all of the tranny mounts and clutch cable will fit the same. the trans tunnel in the brat will be larger than the one on the 2wd wagon, but there should be no issues there. you might have to take out the 4wd lever , but you should be able to just leave it there. hope this helps, since that is what you wanted to do to begin with.....

yes, i could write up about exhaust, pertaining specifically to subaru applications, combination of parts, et. right now, between my, my buddies, and toms subarus, we will have 4 examples to write about. we will be playing with the exhaust on the RX, so turbo applications too

i have driven on OPEN PORTS, i mean, no ypipe at all. drove it enough to determine it doesnt hurt anything. went baja'n thru mud, water and outran the sheriff one night in the field with open ports if you lost a stud or a nut, you may have blown out the gasket

the ea81 flywheel will be too small for the 5spd's clutch disc. you will have to determine if your stuck 5th gear is the linkage itself, or internal. iu think it would be best to keep the 5spd shifter as it is, and get it to fit your existing shifter console the ea81 4wd lever will just not be connected to anything on the full time trannies

here is what i do. i will thread in the 3 bolts and snug them, then i will install the belts. with the belts on, i will turn the bolts about 1/4 after snug, using a 1/4 drive ratchet. once that is done, then i will adjust the belt tension. the easiest way to do the belt tension without special tools is to manually grab the sprocket and turn it so the DRIVEN side of the belt is tight(the side opposite of the tensioner. that, or use a flat screwdriver in one of the holes on the cam sprocket, and tap it with a hammer to draw the driven side of the belt tight. once the driven side of the belt is tight, that is when you let the tensioner take the slack from the other side of the belt

a brat is a brat, auto or not, i would get any that i could find, with the consideration of swapping in a manual tranny if that was all i could find

i remembered ordering a filter for my 83 turbo wagon, and the screen was a different shape. i had to bend a corner, and almost all of the bolts lined up. but i got it to fit anyway.

so far the rx with ported heads and carbbed short block does not ping, with the timing set at a hair above 25deg, and using 87 pump gas

may i use the link for my website, for my mods page i will be working on?

that was a nissan. s set of soob belts will be about 25 bucks and 4 hours time. dont refuse a soob t-belt motor over a nissan!!!

dont worry about the cam box journals. just keep the original cams with their cam boxes. if anything, clean out the oil passages real good

dont forget the driveshaft, as it is slightly longet than an at driveshaft. the front half that is. you will need along with the tranny, the crossmember and its bolts. you remove 2 of the bolts on the frame, and the MT crossmember fits there swap in the clutch pedal box and its cable. keep the diff that comes with your choice of tranny a 5spd dual range, or pushbutton 5spd from a non turbo will fit your axles no change to the rear axles, just swap the diff with the trans get the entire clutch and flywheel assembly

as far as complicated bends, the only place for that is the rear axle. from the ypipe tp the diff, straight pipe will do. i would end the exhaust right before the diff, or curve it out before the back wheel Dual x pipe on the sedan: http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/88sedan/xpipesedan.jpg Toms dual exhaust made from electrical conduit: http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/82brat/tomexhaust.jpg homemade doit yerself make from scrap dual exhaust: http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/trashwagon5/dualdooktubulars.jpg cherry bomb and straight piupe on single exhaust: http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/trashwagon5/cherrybomb.jpg

skip, i remembered the fan on my grand am had 10 ga wire, and it got the relay hot enough to mely the plastic around the terminals. but this was a GM, this is what i drew my assumption from i would go with a 15 amp rating from what skip said.

try reading this, it describes the entire belt procedure, with pics http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm the haynes book is not wrong, but the pic does not show the crank rotation the idea is rotate the crank 360 degrees, so the cam turns 180. bitche d belt jobs either missed that step, or turned the first cam 360 deg

check to see if a hose leaked, losing coolant. that would explain no heat, maybe it busted a hose, and lost power as it got hot check the coolant level, watch for steam in the exhaust or under the hood

check the front diff gear oil for signs of ATF

it will fit like a 5spd install, but the axles will not work. you will at least need turbo ea81 axles, and an ea82 25 spline doj. the ea81 flywheel will not work, but ea82 4wd 5spd flywheel, clutches will work. and you will need the mechanism for the diff lock, i think a 5spd pushbuttin system will work for the diff lock. tou will have to custom mount the shifter

smaller pipes will give better pull, lower rpm torque, wheras bigger pipes will have better highway mileage and open throttle response at higher rpm my rule to pipes is, use a stock size pipe, 1 3/4 inch from the heads for dual exhaust to a muffler (cherry bomb) and then 2 1/2 to 4 in pipe, for sound single exhausts i run a cherry bomb rught behind the y pipe, and fat rump roast pipe after the muffler

redline isnt so much the motor wants to fly apart, but rather its the valvetrain cant keep up with the rpm, floating and bouncing... its not going to hurt to touch redline, but gouing in the redline has no benefit. but you can take up to 7000 rpm shifting all day if u like the point at which you shift is the rpm you want it to be in for the next gear