MilesFox

i took a water pump off an 87 hatch with an ea71 and put it on an ea81 83 wagon, fits the same

i wanted to get a truck plate for my soob. i tell them its a multi purpose vehicle, its a wagon. they have it down as a 4S, which is what i believe to be a sedan. they say it has to be a 4W for the truck plate. the lady tells me they go by the last title. i told them it was a florida title, and the body designation was not listed. when i applied for the title, they had to look up for the designation. i told them that the make is SBU, and it should be a 5w (as it is on my 83 wagon). i had a previous registration, car originally a colorado car, but i got it with an indiana title. it was the mentioned 83 wagon, it was the make was designated as a SUB, but i said it was supposed to be SBU and they found that and corrected it. so that proves the license branch makes mistakes they want to act like i am trying to pull the wool, and wer being "politely Rude" about it. so what is the body designation for the 87 wagons? i know it should be 4 or 5w, my buddy had a truck plate on an 88 gl wagon, spfi 4wdAT wagon

so i got a voltmeter. the temo switch is supposed to read around 700-1000 ohms when warm, but reads about 450. the reference voltage is supposed to be 5 volts, but reads about 3.6 and the tps.. its supposed to read 5 volte wide open, and .5 volts closed. but it seems to read backward, 4.5 volts closed and .07 closed. and now the coil goes out. it was some sort of napa coil, i got a replace ment nippondenso that reads the right resistances.. the old coil was open on the secondary winding. i got a spare turbo disty,(optical type) the haynes book doesnt tell squat about them, i need to fix the plug on it to work. so WTF?

i cant think of anything else that is 86 specific, except for the wiper switch being where the fan switch is on 88, the headlight switch being where the hazard button is on 88, and orange instrument cluster and the windshield washer nozzles are under the hood.

i also blocked off all those pcv hoses and no difference. its too annoying! i am going to get my license back (hopefully) today, and i want to drive MY SOOB, MY SOOB, MY SOOB. let's hear it, someone should know. *screaming like the arby's oven mitt*AAUUGGHH!!! i need a voltmeter!!!!!

funny thing my turbo does the same thing. it runs like a scalded dog when cold, but once warm, she cuts out when you open her up, cant get mre than 1500 revs, and is impossible to start. i changed out my coolant sensor, it didnt change anything(although my replacement may be bad...) i heard a slight puffing noise on thepassenger side, i think it was a cross threaded plug, pulled it and re threaded it. still does all this craziness. if the puffing is there i will check out my intake gasket/ anyway, if you fix your problem, let me know so i cna try that, i will do the same!!

if its idling too high when warm, and the engine has beeb serviced before, suppose the throttle cable is a bit too snug?

wagons, sedans, and 3door will all interchange the same. the trim should be the same for matching years, although rx and loyale should be different. the corner marker lights all fit the same, the only difference is he size of the orange part between 87 and 88

bit dont mill the heads too much, because half the bracketry and the intake manifold are relative to the heads position, milling them down too far will offset a lot

remove the clutch fan using a 7/8 (or 22mm) on the fan shaft, and a 10mm on the nuts. once the fan is out, remove the radiator by the 2 12mm bolts on the top. dont forget the at lines if its an auto. there is a drain plug on the passenger bottom side of the radiator with the radiator out, you got all kinds of room to service the water pump. there are 5 10mm bolts, one of them is shorter than the rest. there is a water tube that goes to the upper hose, it pops put of the pump end, but there is a 12mm bolt that holds it to the driver side head, and a ground wire atatches to it. you may have to swing the alternator out of the way if iut has the panasonic ac system

the haynes book says to let the engine warm, and once its at operating temp, give a couple of quick revsm and see if the middle part raises up about 1/8 inch. ir use a vacuum gage and add 10 inches of vacuum and see if the middle of the egr raises. just read up on that last night , after my ecs flashed a code 34 (or was it 42? it was late....)

its easier to to trannies, exhaust, driveline if you jack the car up on it s SIDE thw 2wd auto to 4wd5spd we dit we drilled the spot welds on the carrier bearing from the parts car, snad chiseled it off. then we tack welded it to some squares of sheet metat and then tacked them and with screws under the car, after bloting it to the bearing. make sure you dont have any mcdonalds trash near your center console! or you may burn down your ride(like i almost did!) you may want to pull the carpet before you cut/weld the holes for the rear diff mount will be punched out on the outer layer ov metal, you will see the holes as a guide to drill thru. other than the carrier bearing and the diff mount, everything else is bolt-on! the wholw rear suspension can be swapped over in one piece. make sure you undo the brake lines, undo the rubber lines where they meet the body. also the main fuel line from the tank runs thru a tube connected to the rear suspension tube, so pinch that off before you pull it. 2wd and 4wd tanks are the same for ea82 models, so tank swapping will not be necessary(unless one is in better shape than the other!)

check then pitch bar and what angle it makes the whole thing sit at. also if the tranny mounts are bad the rump roast end of the trans will flop around like a fisha nd smack up the bottom of the car.

zANNY DOOKS WAGON DID THE SAME THING. WE RAN A WIRE TO THE SOLENOID AND MAD A PUSH-BUTTON START, and it never had a problem after that

what tom said. the wiring should come up into the car at the [assenger side taillight and along the side, you may be able to access some of it for poking with a voltmeter under the rear seat (it flips up, exposing the floor, brake, fuel lines and some wiring)

suspect the hill holder if you had a manual. autos ned not apply!

she still rund good cold, but last night we went for a cruise, and performance dropped off as she got warm. i let danny drive, he stalled it, so we had to wait almost an hour before she would cool off enough to start. i ran the trouble codes, it came up with code 33, 34, 42, and 51 the speedo works, one of them is the (idle Switch) but i replaced the TPS 42 i think is egr valve and 51 i cant remember off hand. i did another round and got code 22 but i probably should clear the codes too, because it has ben running around with a carb motor! so i shoild reset them and try again and see what it says. i am thinking it is the therm switch by the turbo. i will see if i can get a volt meter today. so what do we know thus far?

those loose connectors by the front drivers side corner, there should be 2 or 3, those are diagnostics clips and dont go to anything. what trans do you have? my wagon is an 87 gl-10 with turbo and 5spd. yours being an 86, you would have a points type distributor with a standalone knock unit, wheras my 87 has the optical type dist with the crank angle sensor, and works with the ecu. you can tell by looking at the dist. cap, does it have sctews or clips? 2 wires to the coil or a big white(or black) clip?

yo! i have built a 3 inch and a 6 inch lift, and just recently helped in a bolt thru lift(for the rear of the sedan, which included suspension lift, and found its way onto the rx!) if you have a decent automotive knowledge of suspension, have welding skills, and get a good look at the underneath of a soob, you would probably not have much trouble building a lift.' if you decided to, o can tell you what WONT work, but because of what didnt work, now i know what will. i had a rear end collapse on me, but i did fix that, but i took the whole lift ouy due to the front not being straight. but i used cheap materials and a crappy welder, but HEY, it worked! my 2 builds, plus getting to see a real lift in person, the next one i would build would be strong, straight, and sturdy. ea81 would be easier to lift than ea82

i poked mine out with a dremel and a "snake" extension. i ground away that little nougat you speak of, and i blended in the area around the valve guides. there are a few casting seams in there, i blended those in and smoothed them out. and i straightened out some of the curvature of the "walls" in the ports, so air had more of a straight shot. i blended in the valbe guide ribs in the exhaust port, too, and blended in the webbing of the exhaust port, and opened it up a little. i did this to heads with questionable cracks, but the car runs. it had real good low end response, but i cant get above 4500 when she is running good(whatever it is, its component problems, not the heads!)

all the brake pads on fronat anr rear discs are the same. the onlt difference between the fwd nad 4wd REAR is the HUB itself. pads and rotors the same!

all the carb ea82 i ahve seen have no oxygen sensor. the one i had i put in an 83 wagon, went out west with 30mpg..... had another one with all the vacuum manifold stripped off, but it ran a little rich

all the original mpfi was left alone. the only thing from the car that was hooked up was the coil, and that was to the 2 wires from an 86 distributor, installed on an spfi BLOCK, with a CARB on the intake. the turbo motor was put together from being in the back of the car with both blown head gaskets when i got the car. I tell you what, she runs like a scalded dog, will squal first just putting it down after she's rollin' i replaced the fuel pressure regulator, the throttle position switch, and that solenoid on the throttle body, all from an intake that came off a car that i knew ran. (the intake had the old bolts stuck in them, otherwise i would have used it to begin with!) after i replaced these components, she ran real good, parked the car, then got her to start later, but was hard to start, and it wanted to cut out at 2500-3000 rpm i found what appeared to me to be a thermo switch near the turbo, it has a plug on it like a fuel injector, but the one that was on had funnt un-stock wiring, so i replaced it with the one from the spare intake, and its wire. i figure it is for the mpfi computer, because the one on the water neck should be the temp sensor for the gauges. so i know the car will run like its supposed to. but it is near impossible to start when warm, and it dooks out at 2500 rpms and such. i checked the auxiliary air valve, it is closed with the engine warm. the rubber hose that goes from it to the manifold, i will pinch that and give it a rev, and it wants to bloat a little from boost. i did the same thing to the RX(which runs fine), and the rx does the same thing. so i would surmise the thing is working like its supposed to. i need a stupid volt meter to test the components according to the haynes manual, but i need one first. the clip for the aav does get voltage with the motor running, as i jumped a wire on the terminals and got sparks. the motor wanted to cut out during the spark, but i pulled the wire off right away, she kept idling. if i were to get her started while warm, she will idle all day, but cut out when you open her up. the inlet i fabbed up has 3 holes for the pcv lines, wheras a stock inlet has one on the inside of the motor, and a vapor can hole on the other side. my fabbed goes to the middle of the car, its made from the 2 turbo sides of the turbo inlet, a turbo plenum rubber hose(turbo side hose), vinyl tape, and a hose clap holding on the top of an spfi inlet, with the maf to it. the first turpb inlet piece has a pcv line on it from the passenger cam cover, the hole on the spfi unit is connected to the crank case vent, and the third hole is connected to the T that is to the tight of the throttle body, that comes from the right side of the bottom of the intake, and connects the ilet system to that T, and also the driver side cam cover. i know the stock system draws all the pcv vapors into the inlet, but thru one hole, and not 3. so having 3 holes, will that decrease the air flow across the MAF? i may disconnect all of them, except for the vent on top of the block, having only one hole used. it does seem to be a vacuum or lean condition to me, definately fuel starvation, bu thter is no visible leaks. i had a budy pull the brake booster hose, and it ran more dookey in the same manner with it off, so i surmise it HAS to be vacuum/lean/or inlet tube leak before the maf. but it does run way better than she first did, just got to get around the warm start issue. so far when i start it when cold, she runs fine until i turn her off, but i havent driven it more than a few minutes from a cold start. even though running fine after a cold start, she still cuts out at 4500 rpm, it may be the fuel cut off, i disconnected all that jazz vacuum lines from the turbo, and made the hose go from the turbo to the wastegate (like on the 86 xt) maybe the thermo switch is still bad? what can you guys tell me, this IS my first turbo!

an ea82 isnt so bad if you are mechanically inclined enough to do timing belts and whatever preventative maintenance. if tou are skilled enough to swap motors from one body to the other, then timing belts should not worry you. i personally prefer the ea82, it gets better high rpms, and the 5spd transmission that comes with them takes full advantage of the power curve. some like the 5spd in their ea81 cars, but i have an ea82 with a 5spd in my ea81 body,,,,,,the ea81 doesnt really get the rpms up there for the 5 spd trannies, but are just right for the 4 spds that come with them (4wd's)

the coil is fine. let me make the point that this car has seen the last 800 miles or so with an spfi motor and carb, with the same coil. but, however, it was doing similarly with the carb when i first got IT running, come to find out the dist was way off, but not a tooth off. but i found this out after putting the THIRD carb on it (the other 2 were most likely bad) but i think it has to do with fuel, myself, but a timing light could be very useful!!!! do these symptoms sound like the problem of something else?