SUBARU3

Hey guys: There is local young man near me here in Dallas, Fort Worth, TX and he needs some help with his car. Here's the situation. He has a 99 Impreza Outback Sport. (SOHC 2.2) It has 136 K on it and it seems to have developed, (suddenly) a zero compression cylinder. The car starts and runs, but there is no compression in one cylinder. I'm not so sure that this may not be a complete external blow out of the head gasket, but I'm thinking it may be something in the head. (There is no significant metallic noise). There is no oil/coolant mixing anywhere. Your thoughts? The car is in nice shape and all other mechanical items are in good condition. (Tranny, brakes...bla, bla_). I suggested that he should just have the head pulled and inspect. You will know if it's the gasket right away. Then do the cylinder head work if it's a valve or something. I think the engine is worth repairing. Replacement would be significantly more and most likely much higher mileage too. Any thoughts on what this might be? Also, he needs to find somebody that knows Subarus in the Dallas, Ft Worth Area, or someone that could help him out. (I do not have the time or space) He had the $$ for the repairs, but does not want to be jacked around with someone who knows nothing about these cars!! (You know what I mean). Thanks, Todd

I just have a 65K tranny that I don't think I will ever use. I'm selling it, but thought I'd keep the TC just in case. (Sell the tranny without the TC)

Thanks again guys!!! Much appreciated.

2 quickies: Is the torque converter from a 1995 2.2 Impreza 4EAT automatic AWD the same as the one in a 1995 2.2 Legacy 4EAT automatic AWD? I know the trannys are different numbers. Do torque converters ever fail, or wear out? Thanks!

Thank you guys.....I have the manuals for the car, but it just shows the parts and not so much how they go together. Thanks for the links though!

Yes, the 25 amp fuse is a common problem. It heats up on almost ALL gen 1 cars and BRATs. There was a recall. Problem: THE DEFECT INVOLVES THE 25 AMP HEADLIGHT FUSE HOLDER. THERE MAY BE EXCESSIVE ELECTRICAL RESISTANCE CAUSED BY THE LOOSENESS OF THE RIVET HOLDING THE FUSE HOLDER TO THE TERMINAL PLATE. EXCESS RESISTANCE MAY CAUSE THE SOLDERED END OF THE FUSE TO MELT. AN OPEN CIRCUIT COULD OCCUR AND THE HEADLIGHTS WOULD NOT OPERATE. Recall Details - 3/3/1983 Make sure you pinch the fuse holder clips to make them tighter. You can rewire and add a separate/high quality fuse holder to this circuit. Todd

Actually, here's the story: In 1996 these cars changed to a metal flap lid and no interior cable release. The 1993-1995 Imprezas had a plastic flap and an interior cable release. The plastic lids get brittle and the hinges break, (may be gas fumes that cause it), anyway, I have replaced with the "metal flap". The portion of the latch that is on my car differs from those 96 and up cars. I have the parts for the 96 and up, but I can't figure out how it all goes on. Thanks

Nobody with a 1996 or greater Impreza?

Not sure what you mean by that Turbone.

Auto2...oh my! That's a lot of force!!! I hate to do it, but I guess it's headed to the recycle bin! More hassle than it's worth.

I'm over the axle....I took off the inner DOJ and saved that, so mushrooming is no biggie, the hub is no biggie....I just wanted to save the knuckle. (In case I need a knuckle again for the same reason)!

I will give it a try. I have it already soaking with PB blaster. Time will tell. Thanks! Todd

Well car is back together and all is well!! I had to get a replacement knuckle. Now....I would like to save the old knuckle. Is there ANY way to get the axle out? The machine shop could not get it out, but they said maybe a higher pressure press might, but it might snap with more pressure. I tried heat....nada. I just HATE to give up and throw it out!! Todd

If anyone has a 1996-2000 Impreza, (with the non-cable operated gas flap), could you snap a photo of the latch assembly on the body side and also on the flap side? (and Post or email) I can't figure out what is missing on mine! Thanks!!! Todd subaru3@aol.com

Thank you VERY much!!!

Anyone have an unlimited CARFAX account? I love a look at this 98 Legacy 4S3BG6852W7639021 Thanks a million! Todd email is Subaru3@aol.com

Well, I will save the inner joint and make yard art out of the rest!

Now I have a nice paperweight!!! All I have to do is de-grease it!! I will CERTAINLY put anti-seeze on both of these!!! I just hate throwing away a perfect hub....just because of a torn rubber boot!

Well, yesterday I thought I'd take a couple hours and change the "original" CV axles on my Impreza. 2 boots, one on each side, finally split after 20 years and 74K. Well I have changed many axles and I figured a couple hours tops. Started on the right side and all went well. The axle just slipped out of the hub, the ball joint fell out and all is good! (Thanks to a TX car and no rust I thought). Well on to the left. all went well, but the axle would NOT come out of the hub. Despite, heat, PB blaster, a hammer, a sledge hammer, 2 different types of pullers, a few bad words and a nights sleep. Nada...it WOULD NOT EVEN BUDGE. So I decided I would have to take the knuckle and axle and take it to the axle shop. Guess what....they could not even press it off with a massive press! WTH! Its trash! What a waste! Has anyone ever had this issue with an original axle and hub? So I had to source a used one fast. (I found one in about 2 hours and they pulled it for me) I'm just to old to do this grunt work anymore!! It was $45....well worth it to have it handed to me! So it's getting a new bearing and seals and I should be good. But my 2 hour job turned into 3 days! Now my question: When I took the old knuckle off, I marked the alignment spot on the adjustable top strut/knuckle, (strut to knuckle). Now that I have a different one....how best can I set this? Do I really need to get an alignment now? Thanks!! Todd

It could be the contact inside the switch. Remove the steering wheel and "lightly" emory cloth the contacts and bend to make a tight contact.

Hey guys: I wanted to post here, as I thought it would be seen. In addition to my Subys collection, I have a Dodge Colt and a Plymouth Champ (79 and 81) Both are Mitsubishi cars. Front wheel drive with the 1.6 /twin stick 8 speed tranny. Anyway, I am at a loss with my 81 Champ carb. I cannot get it to idle smoothly. It is a rebuilt carb, professionally rebuilt, (fresh). Symptoms: Starts fine cold every time. Runs smoothly at idle until it warms up and choke opens and idle speed drops. Drives OK and has plenty of power while driving, accelerating, etc. Just has this erratic idle when warmed up and at idle! There is one vacuum port on this Minkuni on the back that is sucking air when it's warmed up. If I plug it, I hear "click" and the car stalls. The car has new dist, wires, plugs, headgasket, timing belt, so it's pretty much related to the carburetor. Oh,Compression is good and Vacuum gauge numbers looks good too. Does this sound like some slow jet clog, or some vacuum leak that I have not been able to locate? I love the Subaru Hitachi carbs sooooooo much better!!! Any quick thoughts? Todd

Ready to sell it??

GL Brats and wagons in 79 had: Chrome wheel well arch trim Ashtray light Tach AM FM radio 4 headlights Cloth interior Body side moldngs Electric clock Delux interior

Looking for the wiring harness, or even just the fan switch for a 79 Gen 1 vehicle. York system/ NOT the Sanden system with the temp selector on the lower left of the dash. In particular, the fan switch that has the rheostat, (temp selector dial behind the fan switch). If you have the harness, parts of the harness, or a good switch. Let me know. Part # SOA203130 14-7501 See Pic Thanks in Advance. Todd

If you get no bites on the whole system, I'd be interested in the wiring harness. Todd