SUBARU3

The front bumper would be a good score for somebody that wanted to tow their 4WD BRAT or wagon. It's quite custom and one of a kind. It would not fit 2WD Cars and Wagons though.

That screw on top worked great. I found that you CANNOT use the adjustment screw on the throttle linkage to raise the idle, as the computer compensates and lowers the idle back. Weird! Thanks guys, Todd

The only good tank I have ever got from a corporate yard was a GF tank. It was behind the back seats. Todd

I also evaluated that car today. I actually saw it back in Oct for the 1st time. The car has a fair amount of rust, but not like a northern car. It's 1979 not 1977. Thanks Ricearu for the posting. Hers's my notes: The doors are door except the drivers (rust) and the right rear (dent). Headliner Good Front bumper is for tow bar attachment. There is a receptacle place to illuminate the lights separately. It lookt to be a bear to get off. Windshield is cracked Rear hitch is an aftermarket "Reese" I believe. It is specific to the car though. However, the cars weight is resting on it. One will need a jack to get it off. Interior door handle surrounds are shot, But all door panals are kinda ok, Xcept drivers. Grill good. (Minus nose and 4WD emblems), I took:clap: Passenger and rear seats good. Center console good Car does not have AC Aircleaner assembly good Roof rack is there. Rear spoiler is there.(Small bend). Tailgate... 5 out of 10 Fenders....salvagable Instru cluster good. Tailights...have paint on them. Look restorable. Left back up light broken. I took right backup, but will sell Right front turn signal broken. Left...OK Heavy mechanicals look to be OK and present. Car is pretty intact overall. Hood seems pretty good. Tailgate strut good. __________________

I also evaluated that car today. I actually saw it back in Oct for the 1st time. The car has a fair amount of rust, but not like a northern car. It's 1979 not 1977. Thanks Ricearu for the posting. Hers's my notes: The doors are door except the drivers (rust) and the right rear (dent). Headliner Good Front bumper is for tow bar attachment. There is a receptacle place to illuminate the lights separately. It lookt to be a bear to get off. Windshield is cracked Rear hitch is an aftermarket "Reese" I believe. It is specific to the car though. However, the cars weight is resting on it. One will need a jack to get it off. Interior door handle surrounds are shot, But all door panals are kinda ok, Xcept drivers. Grill good. (Minus nose and 4WD emblems), I took:clap: Passenger and rear seats good. Center console good Car does not have AC Aircleaner assembly good Roof rack is there. Rear spoiler is there.(Small bend). Tailgate... 5 out of 10 Fenders....salvagable Instru cluster good. Tailights...have paint on them. Look restorable. Left back up light broken. I took right backup, but will sell Right front turn signal broken. Left...OK Heavy mechanicals look to be OK and present. Car is pretty intact overall. Hood seems pretty good. Rear strut for hatch good

Could you outline the details up this upgrade?

I don't have any of these anymore. I'm sure some will pop up though!

I see now...I will give that a shot! Thanks you 2 Todd

Yes...all 4 headlight setups are the same within the entire lineup. The grill is the same too. They just add a 4wd emblem to the grill for those cars that have that.

A quick Bump

Oh man....that will be a challenge. I had some until I sold my GF. You will find it though:headbang:

YES...WHERE ARE THE SUBYS???? lol

Did Flatforever get his?

Any way you could email/post a pic of this adjustment? Thanks! Todd

This is a 1991. I'll take a look. Todd

Yea, I learned something too.

Wow...that's an interesting learning piece! Thanks!!!!

What are the correct pressures? Low and high I know it varies with the ambient temp. I believe the low is 30-40 and the high is 2.5X ambient temp when running.

I'll check into that. Although, this engine runs quite smooth at 400. If it was missing a cylinder, I'm not sure it would be so smooth. There is adjustment on the Throttle position sensor, would that change anything?

Is there anyway to increase the idle on a 91 Legacy LSi 2.2? The car runs smooth at idle, but the idle sits at 400 rpm when warm. This is too low for the automatic transmission and I have a slippage/delayed engagement of the tranny from a stop. If the car is cold and the idle is still higher, no delayed engagement. Car has 101K Thanks, Todd

I can't figure out my AC! Compressor will not stay on. It will cycle radomly, sometimes it stays on for 10-15 sec, sometimes just a few seconds. When is DOES stay on, the air is cold and the pipes sweat. I did jumper the low pressure switch on the dryer and it made no difference. Is this a high pressure issue? Like I said air is cold when it stays on. Is there a relay that could be failing? Car has 100K thanks, Todd

How come "synthetic" is the only allowed oil in aviation engines. (Jet, or piston)? I fly for American and I see cases of Mobil one on the tarmac! I have used it in all my Subys and Mitsubishis without a lick of trouble. I also add zinc with every oil change to keep approx 5000ppm. Mobil one 15/50 has some zinc in it too. http://www.buylucasoil.com/viewitem.asp?itemid=10063 http://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10063-Break-In-Additive/dp/B001DKN8ZU

One more neat video:

Any auto paint shop should be able to mix that. It was originally single stage enamel. Todd

So you did the job Paul? Congrats!! I agree....PLEASE check your pedal box. The clutch pedal should not be hard to depress!! If it is, it's usually the cable is old and the lubrication inside is dried up, or the lubrication on the release bearing slide is not enough. GET A NEW CABLE...lubricate everthing that moves!! Continued use will fatigue the "pot metal" pedal box and it will begin to flex. It will collaspe one day. FUN!! It's a PITA to replace the box and that's IF you can find one that is not cracked already. Then you have to pull it in the salvage yard. MORE FUN!! I have one extra that I could sell. It's not cracked. Make an offer. Todd