SUBARU3

I think the top hose gets a bit firm about the time the fan turns on. I think I will try with the heat OFF and see if that speeds things up. I think the cold ambient temps and the heat on, suck all the heat off the engine! I will try another rad cap too and your test.

The heat is always good, so you may be right in that the heat is taking the load off the engine and keeping it cool. That thermostat on the bottom of the engine is not in a position to get hot quick. Am I correct in saying that the coolant has to get HOT, not just warm in order for the system to pressurize?

It was a Subaru OEM replacement thermostat, no junk. Oh, I also replaced the cap. However, when I tested the original thermostat, it tested OK. I'm just thinking the cold temps have alot to do with it.

Also, never overheated, (temp gauge is always steady) and no bubbling seen in radiator with cap off, or in reservoir with cap on.

I am fairly new to driving my 95 Subaru in COLD weather. Being from TX, things just don't get that cold! Have one of my Subys in PA and have noticed weird things...maybe normal, about my 2.2. Car has 78K on it. 1) I have heard some gurgling in the heater core at times and was noticing the fans were on at idle with temps in the low 20s. Like the thermostat was not opening. (I think the fans were preventing the thermostat from ever opening in the cold weather). The coolant was low, so I added coolant. It then proceeded to blow it all out after driving a good bit! I then did a quick coolant change and did switch out the thermostat just in case..(it was good though). 2) Now I notice the fans turn on when needed, like after idling a long time. So I assume the fan /temp sensor is good. But maybe it's bad? However it seems that it takes FOREVER for the bottom radiator hose to get warm and thermostat to open in really cold weather and also the system never really pressurizes in these cold temps. I also still hear some heater core gurgling, but less now. Interior heat ALWAYS works, but I'm sure that is the bypass system. Is it just normal for Subarus to warm that slowly in really cold weather.....and not really pressurize? Maybe it pressurizes at highway speeds, dunno. Car runs/drives fine. I know the thermostat configuration and location, lend it to staying cold longer. Also temp gauge is always in the normal range after warmup. Just confused about this system and cold weather operation. Thanks! Todd

Call me sometime Paul.

Man 33000 miles in 2.5 years! That's a crap load of miles! Do you have another car? I hate to see these vintage Subys used as daily drivers. Please take care of it, so few left in pristine condition and high mileage is harder on cars this old.

Here's one of the original posts on the Pittsburgh fenders. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/124865-update-2122012-nos-fiberglass-front-fender-available/

I'm amazed he still has those fenders. Very nice guy though, although some that bought the fenders were disappointed. I'd get them while you still can. Todd

Email me djcommie. subaru3@aol.com

Nope....sold. But I do have a set of struts/spring assembly from a 2 wheel drive and the replacement cartridges. subaru3@aol.com

Yes, this is Danny's lot...changed hands.

I will qualify DJ, ( this seller). He is an honest and trustworthy guy. I have known him some time. He adopted one of my vintage subys and is a true vintage Subaru aficionado!!

No. I cannot see it in the box.....just the wire going into the box. In my case, I just "cut" the wire and spliced the 2 ends together. I now have constant compressor operation, but I have to turn it off occasionally manually to keep it from freezing up. I believe that I can get a new probe and fish it into the box and then see how it operates. It may not have contact with the evap core, but it may still work. Otherwise, I will have to split the case.

FINALLY....2015 ....figured out this problem! It was the evaporator temp sensor. Remember, the issue was cycling on off, without allowing the compressor to run long enough to do any good. The compressor NEVER turned on when it was cool , or cold out, so I didn't have the defrost/defog action. Now on HOT days, the compressor would turn on, but not run sufficiently long enough. After lot's of tinkering over the past few years, evacuation, recharge, new dryer, new high pressure sensor, it came down to the evaporator sensor. (Obviously sensing colder evaporator temps than what actually existed). I was taking out the fan motor to clean out the leafs such that managed to get in there and I decided to play with this sensor. I unplugged it and jumped the thing and damned if the compressor STAYED ON!!! The air got ice cold! So I cut the 2 sensor wires and connected them together. Now I have my air back after YEARS! LOL It was the probe in the evaporator. Now I will get a replacement. Feeling happy!

You can use the struts from any 76-79 2WD Subaru car too. You just lost the adjustability that came with the 4WD struts. But that was really worthless anyway. You do need to switch to the 2WD strut assembly in order to use the 2WD cartridges. It opens up another option. They bolt right in exactly the same. 2WD Gabriel G46658 or G44707 KYB #s 20002 KC2024 4WD Gabriel G46671 or G 44730 Todd

Thanks for all the information....super appreciated. I'm thinking along the lines of a spray rust converter. Todd

Posting this here, due to higher volume of people. I have multiple Generation 1 Subys, but the one I'm restoring now has a light surface rust all over the bottom surfaces. This car is NOT a northern car and it has never, never been in salt, there is no rust through anywhere....solid. It only had the light factory undercoating, (mostly wheel wells), that came with the car, so the bottom of the car was just painted. What does one do it this? Again, it's very light, surface only, but widespread. The car is a 1978. Spray it with a treatment, prime and paint? Undercoat over it? I don't want to have to strip the car, rotisserie it and sandblast. Thoughts? Thanks! Todd

Thanks guys for the feedback!!!

All seem to be leaking from the bellows. Pretty sure. I know it's not the pump....I will look at the hose connections again too. Thanks a bunch

It appears that my collection of New Gens all have leaking racks! 95 Impreza 75K 95 Impreza AWD 100k 95 Legacy LSi 100k These racks are not leaking bad, but leaking enough to have to add fluid once a month or so. Questions: Racks for all these cars essentially are the same and can interchange? Can I just run them leaking, until the leaks get really profuse? Can the racks be resealed on the car, or do they need to be removed and bench rebuilt? Would you rebuild the originals, or just get a replacement unit, such as those found on eBay? Thanks guys! Todd

I think the issues are that there are no "middle of the road" options. You have MAACO on one end and $3000 on the other. Quite frankly, I have seen, (and seen many), private paint shops, (that profess to be really good), charge a fortune and then you have a MAACO job anyway! I looked at a car outside a nice paint shop recently, that quoted me $3900 and there was dirt in the paint. It was a 2012 vehicle. One must be very careful when shopping for paint work!! It's not financially wise to put 3K plus into any car that is worth 5K or less in my opinion. But by the same token, you want that nice 5K car to look nice too. Paint seems to be far more difficult to navigate then any mechanical issue!! I'm inclined to use a production shop, remove and prep all I can on the car and be VERY specific with what I want and be NICE to the shop guys.

OK...2 of my "new gens" are needing paint. Texas cars...no rust issues, but sun damaged clear coat. They are both 1995s, so I guess it's about time. Both cars well under 100K and exceptionally mechanically.....I'm keeping them! I'm wondering about the removal of things like roof moldings, front and rear glass trim, door handles assembles, glued/sealed in taillights, etc. I don't want to create more problem and leaks. Most of the plastic clips need to be replaced if you remove trim. Tailights can leak. Door handle removal is labor intensive. Certainly I will remove all emblems, headlights and essentially anything that can be unbolted or unscrewed relatively easy. ___________________________ What are your thoughts on removal of stuff prior to painting? What is the better name paint to use? Can you still use enamel? I HATE base clear! My70s cars with enamel STILL gloss up!! What are your thoughts on "production" paint shops, MAACO, etc. I have used them in the past and when I take the cars apart, tow them in, specify my paint manufacturer, be really nice, buy the shop pizza, I get a great job. But I'm open to suggestions. How much is reasonable for a good paint job on a Suby? Thanks much!! Todd

Thanks a bunch!! I might have another one. (Looking for a low mileage tranny) Todd

Nothing