SUBARU3

Just an FYI.....the 79-84 Dodge Colt/Plymouth Champ heater core can easily be made to work on Gen 1s. (I think many of the Mitsubishi/Dodge brand from the late 70's to 80's will work too). These are easy to find.

I have this: Hood Prop Rod, and retainer clip and gromet (where is connects to body) Might have this: Front Turn Signal Lenses (Both Sides)

Agreed!

I have lots of mechanical parts, gaskets, seals, carburetors. Email me your needs and I see what I have. Todd subaru3@aol.com

The same engine...EA71 easiest!. Go with a fat case, (later version EA71) and use your flywheel cover.

Did you get what you need?

Did anyone get these?

I'm trying to replace the caliper on my 95 Impreza /2.2/AWD/L. It looks IDENTICLE to my 95 Legacy/2.2/AWD/LS. It also seems to be the same as my 95 Impreza/1.8/FWD/L 14" wheels. However there a a zillon choices between these cars. Is the 95 Legacy the same as my 95 Impreza AWD? I know the pads are the same on all 3 vehicles.:-\ Oh the confusion. Todd

Shawn...are you selling the y's? Todd

I agree.... The radiator is most likely clogged. Is it the original? They are pretty inexpensive to buy. I bet that is the issue. Also, consider adding a coolant recovery/overflow tank. Todd

Shawn: That cat pipe may well still be a 1600 pipe. The 80 BRAT 1600 was was a catalyst and also the late 1600 CA emissions cars. It looks the cat that was on my 80 BRAT 1600.

Updated 3/6/2016 Due to issues with buyers, communication, no pays, etc.....I am find it easier and more structured to sell items on eBay. If you have specific needs and I can help you, I will sell outside eBay, but I am weary of back and forth emails, no responses, complaints about shipping costs...and the list goes on. I love my Suby friends, really this has become too difficult! Continuing to clean out "stuff". I have pics of all of it. If you need a pic, send me your email address. Will ship. Please email me at subaru3@aol.com

I have a left and right new/rebuilt calipers I will sell for $40 ea if interested. The shipping should not be too bad. Todd

I appreciate all the good information GD. I will tell you that cast iron is ALOT heavier to work with! I much prefer slugging around a Subaru engine! LOL Todd

Oh man.....I'm sorry to hear that. You are lucky. Hope you get the car back soon! Todd

Did this happen in Michigan or Mass?

Yea, it's best I just pick up the correct one. ESP since this is Texas and it's been way over 100 degrees continously!!! Todd

Oh yes, all new seals, gaskets and a fresh head. Start it and run it with CLR? Someone said to put a stocking in the upper rad hose to filter the crap out. Flush frequently. What head gaskets would you use? Thanks, Todd

It appears to be at the opposite end from the cap. Looks like right where the tank is crimped on. (Well thats the area that seems to stay wet). Todd

I am building up a spare engine for my 79 Dodge Colt and I was curious about rust in the water jacket. (cast iron block) I have 2 engines that have been stored for LOTS of years, but both have less than 40K on them. When I was looking into the water jacket on both, there is evidence of rust, (albeit) old rust. Some looks nasty, but scrapes off....no water has been in there for like 10 years or more. Engines were stored in dry storage. I doubt that rust through would have happened with thick cast iron and I don't want to tear down the engines, remove pistons, bearings, etc as the mechanicals are in fantastic condition. Can I just do alot of flushing? How can I clean this before I would start it? What would be considered the death nail in the way of rust? Ideas? Thanks, Todd

Forget the Bondo. Filler is used for suface inperfections and smoothing. It will never hold long with that kind of rust. It also soaks up water. Use fiberglass if you are going that route. The firewall, cowl, inner wheelwells, spare tire shelf are really the death nail when rust gets bad. Replace the rubber windshield gasket too. They are available from a bulk order we all did some time ago. I would suggest the welder. Remove ALL of the dash, wiring, insulation, heater and see just exactly what you are dealing with. If it's bad and there are other bad areas on the car, I would salvage the best and part it. Keep doors, hatch, hood, interior and mechanicals, lights. You can still find solid wagons out there. Otherwise, cut out the bad and fab up new metal, weld in, seal up and paint good. If you just want to play with it, then keep it all in perspective. Todd

It would appear that I have a small leak in my Mom's 99 Forester's radiator. Seems to leak at the top corner of the tank when hot and pressurized. I have a new Impreza radiator. (97) It apprears to be the same thing except that the top tank seems to be a bit smaller. Can I still use this? Is it just a smaller volume radiator? Thanks for your time. Todd

Just a few observations: That is not the original engine. It is a later EA71/fatcase version with the flywheel cover from the original engine. Also the oil fill is an indicator of that. No big deal though. Still great engine! The rust at the hood cable is a problem, caused by the rubber seal not being seated correctly. Water get and soaks the insulation on the underside and the next thing is that. Very common. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10028&highlight=hood+cable+rubber Todd

Nice Brat Tommy!

Look inside at the VERY top of the inner wheel wells. Inside the car..... Where the cowl, firewall and the inner wheel well come together. Both sides. Pull back the insulations and the wheel well vinyl trim. Todd