Hondasucks

Yeah it pops the dent out, but it won't relieve the stress that is in the metal, so it will "oil can", or pop in and out very easily, but it'd prolly look better than before. I'd recommend trying to get behind the dents and popping them out by hand, or with a block of wood and a mallet (just be careful not to hit it too hard, better to hit it with several soft blows than one big one) Just saw your pic, I think if you remov e the back seat and the interior trim on the inside, you should be able to pop that out with a block of wood and a 5 or 10 lb mallet ("Dead Blow" hammers work great)

You will have to run new wires for the speakers, since the speakers in the older Subarus share grounds, you will fry your stereo if you hook it up to the stock wiring, you will need to run new wires for the speakers. The only wires you need in the stock harness are the constant power wire and teh accessory power wire, and teh grounds. If in doubt, you can run your own ground wire to anything metal in teh car that is attached to the body of the car, as the body is the ground.

yeah get the adaptor. Some decks it is a bit of a tight fit (Mine was oh so fun..) but makes it a lot easier. Dont' bother with the $15 wiring adaptor, as you need to run new wires for all the speakers, as the Subarus of that era used common-grounded speakers, which all but the cheapest of the cheap stereos, dont' use. The only two wires you need in the stock harness, are the wire that is on it;s own connector all by itself (constant power) and the blue wire with the yellow stripe (switched power).

That could prolly be done, I have to go down there and get the head for my 86 sometime anyway.... You can see my ugly Rabbit lol..

You have to use a hooked tool and a slide hammer, or the Subaru tool, to remove the wrist pins through the side of the block in order to separate teh halves of the block. You can't get it apart unless you do this. Also the wrist pins are a full floating pin; they are not pressed into anything, however they get carbon build up on the exposed parts, making them difficult to remove.

Also, upgrading the oil cooler would help. Iread somewhere that the European turbo subarus didn't have the head cracking problems, and they all came factory with oil coolers, where only the US EA81T had an oil cooler.

why don't you guys call 'em and ask 'em

Hmm, cuz I've always heard the legacies as 90-91 and 92-94... Good find Brian.. You should be able to just swap in a US gauge cluster to get MPH. Not quite sure, but I think that 55 is about 88 km/h. As far as I kow, the Legacy Turbos at least the US models didn't have a boost light, so I think you are good with a non-turbo cluster, just get a manual cluster, cuz the auto clusters have the thinger that tells you what gear you are in.

I should show up in a Vanagon Syncro, that's an SUV right lol.. Also, the Transporter I beleive is the cargo paneled version of the Vanagon, and what they called the Vanagon in Mexico I think.. The pickup Vanagons were the Single Cab pickup and the Doublecab ("quad cab"), and of the Syncro Doublecabs, only 18 were imported to north america, one of which got trashed during shipping. Got this from http://www.vanagon.com... I'd love to see the look on Scott's face if I showed up in a Syncro camper with a SVX motor and mud tires :-P

check for vacuum leaks, my 84 had a vacuum leak on the passenger side head (I forgot to plug the port where my vacuum gauge was) and you could swap the plug wires around, with no change in idle. It didn't miss under load though. Poke around looking for vacuum leaks, use a "smoke machine" if you have access to one.

Although when the balls fall out and teh boot stays intact enough to hold the axle in place they don't make THAT much noise lol (happend on my 84)

I loved his comment abotu not seeing any VW trucks.. I need to find a "Trabbit" and enter it just to piss him off lol, a DIESEL Trabbit, running on vegetable oil :-)

Just use a carbed EA81 block, and an EA82 SPFI intake, wirign, and computer. Would be easier than doing all that work to the EA81T

Messing with the wastegate won't make it spool faster. However, your 3" exaust will make it spool faster, if you open up your intake as well. Gave my 87 a lot more power. What year Si? I've toasted many a Civic and even a 94 Accord V6 in my 87 :-)

So where did Durango Boy fair in all this, or was he even there?

EJ series motors use a different filter than EA series, the threads on the filter boss are different.

EA71 and EA81 joints, at least all the ones I have seen, are held in with circlips on the inside of each ear. the EA82 drivlines are staked, at least mine is.. You are right though, the stock joints dont' have Zerk fittings. Every couple of months (or before and after every 4x4 trip, especially those involving water!) shoot some grease in the joints. You should hear the joint "pop" after a pump or two, that means it's full. At least that is what we did with the Zerks on the drive shafts on the baler I operated last summer.

get the freeze plugs new and from the dealer if they are what popped, the ones you get from the parts store don't fit!

dont forget the crank seal

I've had a similar experience. At first glance it doesn't look quite as deep, but note the waterline on the door, that is how high the deep spot was :-)

Erik, I have TWO EA81 short blocks in my sideyard.. They need some honing, but I'd be willin to give 'em to ya... The Wabbit won't take that much gas to get to Sea Town and back.. :-) **edit** actually it won't take ANY gas, and only about 15 gallons of Diesel there and back...

MAn, my Turbowagon needs some of this stuff!!! Although since I' ve been drivin the Wabbit for the last couple of days, that turbowaogn is gonna seem mighty fast now :-P

I don't think that is a 4WD Dizzy I gave you Russ, the 49 state 4WDs used a Hitachi dizzy, where the 2WD and California 4WDs had a Nippondenso. The 2WD dizzys have a sharper advance curve than the 4WDs however :-)

If you get ahold of an FSM, and the tools to set the ring gear backlash and the bearing preload, you could do it. The play indicates that the side bearings are going out. you MIGHT be able to prolong it's life by tightening the preload adjusters (they surround the shaft, it's a toothed ring with a retainer...) turining each side in abotu 1/2 turn each until you feel it tighten, and then back off prolyl 1/8 to 1/4 turn (You don't want it too tight) it should take up some of the slack but I make no guarantees. Manuals arent' that hard to rebuild, the hypoid differential makes it kinda difficult, cuz those bearings and the gears will last about 100 feet if not set up right :-) Your best bet is to just find a JY transmission, as those 4 speeds are fairly easy to come by.

You could just get a cluster out of a manual transmission car, it woudln't have the indicator, and I dont' think they'd know the difference at the inspection station!