SOOBOUTLAW

I have a wedge of 1/4" plate steel 3" long, tapers 1/2" to nothing (to the point) that I use to remove the hub knuckle assembly from the strut. Works awesome and very quick.( Sometimes it might slip out of the groove:dead: ) I also have a bolt and nut, combined with an offset double end box wrench that I use to torque those two pesky hard to reach head bolts on EA81. I attach the torque wrench at a 90 degree angle for accurate torquing. Found that trick in another thread here somewhere.

So....would attaching the blocks to the chassis with the original hardware, and attaching crossmember, plates, etc. to the blocks would be stronger than longer straight through bolts?

BTW, check out all the similar threads link at the bottom, interesting stuff.

BTW, check out all the similar threads link at the bottom, interesting stuff.

I am planning to do my strut blocks with original studs in the strut plate and putting new strut studs in the block to bolt to the strut tower. That way I can offset slightly for camber. Would it be a good idea to do every block that way? Haven't drilled any yet cuz I'm rebuilding the front end cuz its the perfect chance to. Still pondering and measuring. And cleaning.

I currently have four 100 watt lights on the roof on my '80 wagon. I plan on adding several more around the vehicle. I have a 90 amp Nissan alternator to keep the battery charged. I strongly suggest you try it, or a GM alt swap. Optima yellow top deep cycle would be optimal. For me the Nissan alternator was piece of cake. I would like to try 130 watt zenon bulbs someday. I have read Lightforce 170 is real good.

So, I can drop the leading rod plates 1" less and no problems? I'm doing a 2" lift, and I have some 1x2" I can use for the plates.

Cool, I already got some scrap block ready to drill out for dropping the bar. I didn't expect just a front end only lift to be so much more work than a rear 'clock the torsion bars and drive for a long time without any problems' deal. But, most of the maintainance work on my rig is up front.(STOCK.)

ALWAYS use antiseize on your intake bolts, they break so easy after 150k miles. It's a B(female dog)h to drill out and rethread or helicoil.( I like Helicoil cuz they will last way longer than crappy soft aluminum thread. Especially when you dismantle and reinstall occasionally)(sp?)

Awesome, gen 2 Brat is the same as most (if not all) other EA81 series body, and I've been looking for two gaskets for awhile.

Wouldn't a longer leader bar cause a pivot action and push the hub foreward when the suspension compresses?

When you put blocks between the unibody and crossmember, tranny mount, etc., do you put blocks where the leading rods bolt to the unibody or do you just adjust them to work? (In case nobody knows what I'm talking about, the leading rod (as Haynes calls it), is that bar which bolts to the control arm and the sway(stabilizer) bar is attached). EA81 type chassis.

EA81 bellhousing on EA71? How'd that happen? I tried it once, won't line up the bolt holes. (But, I got an EA71 fat case bellhousing that came with my JDM EA71).

Does she got the third eye too?

Intake, exhaust, throttle body, o ring on disty....off the top of my head. Oil pan drain plug washer? But you can do all this with the motor in anyway.

I've done that so many times half the backyard is dead. The drain plug nut sticks into the tank and prevents much sediment from flushing, plus the plug opening isn't big enough for the larger rust particles. Reminds me this time I'm gonna powerwash the he11 outta the tank next time I take it off for a diff swap or something.

Where? How much? I need two.

If you ain't rollin a Soob, you gonna get the finger.

Is the access pannel on the side behind the plastic panel for the vapor recovery junk? Or in the floor? Gonna start tearing my parts wagon up looking for it.

Hehe, the ol Bondo the hole thing. The bondo can usually comes with screens to use as a backing behind the hole, that's what I did. But only on one door I replaced on the wagon. High build primer and a sanding block will make it smooth as a Standard door. BTW, is there such thing as a Standard Wagon?

Vented rotor will work with your hub, but gotta have a wider caliper for the wider rotor. If you took the caliper when you got the rotor, shouldn't have any probs. I dit it over a year ago, direct bolt on,(bleed) and go.

It's not all that bad to take out the tank. The tank has(gasp) a drain plug which will greatly reduce the weight to one arm manageability. But the hoses can get a little annoying, plan on replacing em cuz you might wanna just cut em all. They're like 25 years old anyway.

Sticking T.stat or one loose fan wire causing overheating are the only ways( yes a few times) to blow a head gasket, maybe make your lifters too hot and they stick and tick loud as f***. Overheating is the number one way I have managed to mess up an EA series motor. Actually, the only way so far.

Only the rear is jacked up at the moment, center of the rear wheels are a bit below the bodyline, no mudflaps, but doubt that's why the local snooped. Might be the cracked windshield or severly cut front fenders(ghetto-redneck rust fix). But, State Patrol says I can roll studded tires between November and March, and I don't recall the studded tire ban passing. Maybe he never saw a modified Subaru like that.

'80 GL wagon, 176k on the clock, proly several more thousand cuz I drove with no speedo cable for awhile, 215k on the (4th) tranny, less than 50k on JDM EA71. '83 Brat GL, 160K. '83 GL parts wagon, 215k (drivetrain donor for '80).