SOOBOUTLAW

Is the tranny you're replacing top or side starter mount?

Some cop snooped at my rig at work today. I think he jotted my plate down. 400 watts on the roof.... maybe I can find some Crown Royal bags to cover em or something. I also notice the Jeep Liberty doesn't have covers for their factory roof lights.

Checked the Staters' website, didn't tell me anything (about roof lights...). I know I legally cannot operate them on a public roadway. But, I have been told I must cover them when I am operating my rig on a public highway. But, I passed a bunch of cops this morning, no hassle (first drive with the lights cuz the Brat's RWD for street, so I can braff the Wagon(eats CV's), but it snowed and I won't risk wrecking the Brat when the wagon, 4wd, rules the road in the snow, with new studded snow tires and more torque at the flywheel). OK, enough said, do I gotta cover 'em?(if yes, does a light layer of snow count?)(ps, search here didn't help any).

Nizzy alt is now pumping 14.2 volts, all the electrical is running top notch, the heater fan blows and actually warms up the carpetless drafty interior. Just mounted my roof lights, gotta buy switches and prolly relays so I don't fry the switches. Currently 100 watt halogens in two spots and two floods, a third 100 watt flood in the grille, and two 55 watters side lighting. More to come, I'll try to get pix, but no promises, don't have my own camera or puter yet, most my money goes to my Subaruz. BTW, anybody ever do this to an old rump roast rig like my '80? The wiring is a bit different than my '83 Brat, and the wiring in the Brat is a tad, but not much, different than my '83 GL parts wagon.

Voltmeter, sorry my bad.

Fired her up. Pumped a sweet 13.9 volts as measured off the 26+ year old ammeter. Oddly, the Brat died from discharged battery right outside the gate to my back yard, so I dropped in the wagon's old alt. Yes, I got the Nizzy alt at PAP. Came off a Maxima, dunno the year, guessing late '80's to early '90's, serpentine belt. But... someone already did all the hard work for me and left the alt right underneath the front of the car. I'm posting in offroad cuz it's on my trail rig so I figure this is a good spot. I'll be mounting two floods and two spots on the roof, maybe two side lights up there too, a flood in the center of the grille, maybe some fog and driving lights too.

Just installed and hooked up all the wires, battery, earth, S and L (whatever the heck those are). Bolted up perfectly to my JDM EA71 in my '80 GL wagon. By perfectly, I mean perfectly, belt lines up perfectly, the mounts line up perfectly, the alternator even clears the air cleaner housing by an eighth. The 'stock' alt (not original one that came with the motor from Japan) was a little set inward, not lining up with the crank pulley, but the Nizzy does. All that aside, anything I should need to know before I fire up the beast? (serious about the fire). My grounds are way beefed up over stock, larger wires, motor to battery, motor to body, body to battery, tranny to body, tranny to motor, tranny to battery. Optima redtop sitting where the spare used to go with like 10 inches of 1/0 gauge going from the postive terminal to the starter. Heavier wire (cuz of distance) going to the fusible links. Some of the electrical has been replaced, upgraded, bypassed. I'm only worried about the stock(original) electrical. The voltage regulator also has me concerned cuz the Nizzy alt has a built in one(from what I've read). Will my stock VR cooperate just fine? (sorry for the mass rambling, just wanted to get as much details).

$1675 is probably worth it if your Hatch is in great shape in NY, but over here in the PNW it would probably be in the $600-$1k range, especially if the buyer is desparate to get a cool Hatch.

What does the car have to be worth $2k? Real low miles and absolutely no rust?

I tried to put Pug nuts on Soob lugs, but it wouldn't thread. I tried several different nuts on several different lugs, no dice. Stock nuts (Soob) work just fine with the lugs (and 14" steelies I'm rollin now). Dunno why, haven't checked thread pitch of either yet.

My Brat has some pretty serious rust behind the front wheels, the rocker panels and parts of the front framerails. Both doors are rotted out at the bottom, but I already have replacement doors awaiting prep and paint. I plan to cut up my parts wagon for donor metal as soon as I can snag a MIG. And another Subaru. Backup for my backup.

My '80 wagon's dash has a couple cracks in it, as does my '83 wagon parts car. But, my '83 Brat's dash is f'n primo!!! No damage anywhere. Never seen an older Soob dash like it. Sorry, no pix, I need to get a digi cam and my own puter.

Proly DL, Standard didn't come with 4wd til like '85, my bad.

Round headlights.... does it have rear defrost? If not, probably is a Standard. DL also came with round headlights. GL has square headlights. 10-1 odds its EA71 4spd single range unless there happened to be a swap.

I dunno about Subaru SPFI, but on alot of other cars with computers, you can just disconnect the battery for a few mins to an hour, then reconnect and let the motor idle for a certain time to let the computer reset itself.

Do you currently have air conditioning? If not, it may have used to.

Installing new valve springs can help make a peppier motor at higher revs, due to lack of valve float bogging the motor. Especially if you can find some hi rev(8k) dual springs.

Gonna raid PAP tomorrow, hope I have enough cash..... and room in the Brat.

You should be able to feel the lifter dimples with the pushrods. That's how it worked for me, plus, you should be able to see the lifters if you use a flashlight.

211, Steel Reserve, silver label.

Chain it to a telephone pole and try to stretch it back out. Might or might not work. I tried to do that on my wagon cuz the front tow hook thingie got pushed up from bottoming out, but I barely budged it. Pretty solid mount IMO. A hammer could help massage it a bit. Or you could shell out some cheese and get a 10 ton Porta Power. It's a hydraulic ram set with several different accessories for auto body/frame repair. If it's too rusted out, you could cut it out and weld a new one in from a donor car.

The dowels on the flywheel should line your pressure plate properly. It seems to only fit a certain way. In my experience anyway. The Chilton might be referring to a colored dot marked on the pressure plate.

Are those Empi Porsche style rims?

Make sure your bearing is made in Japan or the US. I bought a clutch set and it came with a bearing that said made in China. I ditched the bearing for a Japanese one.

Might be the shaft that drives the 4wd in high range. I think low range is driven separately(sp?).