SOOBOUTLAW

They changed the name to Pacific Raceway. I know they have a road course. I wonder if they'll have a burnout contest during the Northwest Nationals, drag racing:headbang: !

I swapped vented rotors onto my '80 wagon back in Dec. Now I'm thinking of reswapping solid rotors back on and putting the vented rotors on my solid rotor '83 Brat, which will be street only. Does anyone have probs with mud gunking the vented rotors up? After playing around, I notice more wheel vibes than with solid rotors.

I just scored some 14" 6 lug rims, and those tires would be perfect on my rig. I don't wanna go overkill with like 27" rubber, I'm only lifting 1.5" in the front.

I've gotten to second gear. Gotta melt the tires greasy and double clutch. And buy new tires.

I've replaced the oil pan gasket of an EA82 with the motor in the car, and with power steering. I unbolted the motor mounts and raised the motor a few inches to get a swevel socket through to get the back bolts on the pan.

You sure messed your car up tsk tsk.

I'll probably be down there tomorrow. I try to go every weekend.

I always do burnouts in high range. I've been able to hit second roasting both rears with 4.111, have yet to try with 3.900. I have a big stack of not so street legal tires I need to dispose of. Any race tracks having burnout contest in western WA? My ugly POS will shock em all!

Do the rocker bolts support the head too? The only way I can retorque my heads is removing the rocker assembly.

The pedal assembly has a nasty habit of developing a crack at the clutch pedal pivot... Gone through several. One even had a washer welded in place (might be the one in my rig now cuz I haven't had probs for a few years).

I Helicoiled my exhaust stud threads( M10 1.25 thread). Aluminum sucks for threads if you dismantle and reinstall too much. I believe the torque is 19-22 ft lbs (or 25 as Haynes says, but 22 works fine).

Did you remove the cotter pins first?

You can get paint markers at a craft store.

15 bux brand new?

Check your U-joints on the drive shaft.

I've just done it again in my wagon (cuz the reman jy axlecrap won't last long), and I sure have missed the way she drives in rwd. Now with 3.90:1 and dual range.

I didn't mean anything illegal. It's just I bought two complete doors with everything but the mirror for like 23 bucks each. Great shape, great deal.

For the two buck entery, git yer money's worth(or what your pockets can hold)

Robin Subaru diesel motor for a generator?

Never seen a cat either. They cut the cat off before tossing it to the buffet.

I plan to put a single range in my Brat (street use only) and might put my RWD conversion kit in it (if I can get the damn thing to stay running).

Nah, do it. It's fun. Powerslidin. Pro stock burnouts.

They look different to me, which is why I pull EA81 axles cuz that's what I roll in. But the DOJ cups can be interchanged I believe. Gives an extra 1/2" extension or something.

I always use the one at subarubrat.com.

Yeah, I happen to be doing this in my backyard in a ghetto part of town. I like the idea of keeping the bottom of the car as smooth as possible for clearance. I don't like the idea of dropping the crossmember and lowering the driveline via traditional lift kits, and I don't need a real big lift. I can just hack/pound metal if it gets in the way. The rear is already lifted by turning the torsion bars down a notch. Never had an axle problem from it. Stock EA81 DOJ cups, but I will probably try GD's EA82 cup swap. Might try it with the front axle DOJ too, got enough parts here and there except EA82 cups. I would probably use 1.5"x1.5" square steel tubing for blocks, but that bushing trick sounds cool.