Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Then, I prepared the metal Plate, prior to painting it: So, the 4WD models has it installed Backwards than the 2WD models, That means that the 4WD models has the Shifter Closer to the Stereo!

So, since I needed to re-center the Rubber Boot's plate again, I had to do this Modifications to it, in order to move it one inch Backward:

To share a Video here, you must upload first to a hosting site, such like YouTube, then paste here the Video's URL adddress, removing the letter "S" (security) from the https code, leave it like http and the video will display here immediately. Kind Regards. ► Edited 'cos the system didn't allow me to write the http code...

I wish I could... In fact a couple of Great Friends here, in USMB invited me, but I lost my Job almost a year ago, and I have a family to care ... so being tight on money impedes me to go to many places... For the Lucky ones that could go, don't forget to share Photos with us. Kind Regards.

Let me Show ya: The inner Rubber boot's holding Plate, is not "Centered" Anymore. I added the two extra holes in the sides' center, also I bent in 45º angle, the Rear of that Plate.

Really the Shifter got very Solid and that feeling kinda remembers me the early 1980's Ford Courier 2.0 (Rebadged Mazda B2000 / Sundowner) whose four speed transmissions, were super solid, in fact each gear only took one inch of movement from the Shifter, making a "Click" noise while entering or leaving a gear, and I really liked that, in fact I always wanted to have that shifter's feeling on my "BumbleBeast" so, I will not use the Dampening Rubber Cube.

Despite that I already have another Shifter Linkage's plate, With vibration dampening Rubber Cube, sent by MilesFox: I Really Like too much the Solid Feeling of the Shifter without the Rubber. But as soon as I could, I'll be doing this: Kind Regards.

Could it be Possible that Kia placed a Blank Fuel Pump in there? I mean, the old one does not have a single Letter or Number anywhere. I was thinking that the Old Fuel Pump Assembly, failed due to the Age & Mileage, But maybe this was an Aftermarket unit, placed by the previous Owner. Maybe it failed and they placed the Cheapest Junk they could bargain for... Kind Regards.

Yes, in fact all could be Summarized as: "Prefer OEM parts as long as you Can, Aftermarket usually are Junk" Kind Regards.

That is Great, your subie is from the Rare ones. Share a couple of Photos with us! Two things regarding this. The first thing, is that you must be aware, that the EA82 engine is prone to develop a T.O.D. (Tick of Death) sound with the Hydraulic Lifters, they are really Warning you that there is something Wrong with the lubrication system; usually the seal that goes between the Oil Pump and the Block, known colloquially as "Mickey Mouse Seal" is the one that fails, because it gets Hard as it ages, and under certain circumstances, it lets Air to get into the oil torrent and thus explains the sound; but then, here comes the other thing: You might went very Thick with your Oil and your engine might not be "Accustomed" somehow. Or was it a thick, Monograde oil perhaps? ... ... Maybe you can switch back to 10W~40 which seems to be the most preferred viscosity number for the EA82's, also let us know which oil filter you used. Also be careful to use the proper Automatic Transmission Fluid; I kindly suggest you to use Valvoline's "Max Life" which is formulated for High Mileage transmissions; I've used it in several different cars, with great results, but I always pour half pint of Lucas "Transmission Fix" additive. Finally, I kindly suggest you to start writing the Maintenance data of your Subie, in a small notebook... dates, numbers, amounts, etc... Kind Regards. ► Edited to fix misspelled words.

Regarding Oil Filter, I have thirty years using Purolator 10028 on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" The only time I placed the Luber-Finer equivalent, my Sublie literally Blown it away ... ... The reason was the short thread located deeper on the filter's base, never screw all the way. By the way, the 10028 is an inch shorter than the recommended, everything else is identical. No issues after thirty years and almost 400K miles so far and counting... Kind Regards.

Not always a thicker oil will be Better. Newer cars with closer tolerances needs oils in lower viscosity grade, such like 5W20. I bet that you used 20W~50, that is good for the EA82 during Summer times ... ... I use that number since the car was new in 1985, Because I live at the eternal Summer somehow. Kind Regards.

Sorry for hijack this thread, but that info above is Backwards. A good multi grade oil will actually Thick as is gets Hot, to fight Shearing. Also, Thinner oils runs at Higher pressure than Thicker oils. Complete information Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/126284-how-to-determine-which-is-the-best-motor-oil-for-your-car/ Kind Regards.

Why? ... ... He was run over?

Not the Distributor itself, but maybe the Ignition Module is saying Goodbye... However, I kindly suggest you to Disconnect the Battery, and check the Distributor's Wirings, maybe it has a loose one. Good Luck! Kind Regards.

Welcome! Maybe the automatic transmission only needs a Flush, and fresh fluid to go. Does you subie have the 3AT or the Rare 4EAT automatic transmission? I kindly suggest you to change all the Rubber at the Engine Bay: Timing Belts, Vacuum Hoses, Coolant Hoses, etc, The EA82 is a Durable Engine, But Not on its Turbo form, Turbos are more prone to Fail, so take care and it will Last. Do not forget to share Photos with us, we love Photos here. Kind Regards.

You were right, I asked a guy I know who has a Dry Dock and do multiple repairs on Merchant Vessels and Fishing Vessels, and he told me that he obtains Aluminium Primer at the Local "Pinturas Sur" paint factory, I can't believe that I completely forgot abot them ... ... I must had a Brainfart. In fact the "Sur" (spanish for South) paint factory, uses German formulas, they sells the "Klass" and "Glasurit" automotive paints locally, I painted my beloved Subaru "BumbleBeast" in "Radioactive Yellow" using their "Glasurit" poliurethane paint, long years ago. So, I'll check at the local "Sur" paints' store, tomorrow... Kind Regards.

He is writing about AWD, Not 4WD ... There are differences. Their Greatness or Lousyness has to be measured in this case (because you are writing about "Myths"), by the Drivers, so it really will depend on the Use that said drivers do of their cars. Driving on unpaved secondary roads, during rains or Snows, is way different than racing on pavement; Both traction systems will behave differently in different circumstances... and some people will Love, while others might Hate the same traction system, due to their usage and results. The "Evaluation" that generates any "Urban Myth" is always pretty Subjective. Kind Regards.

The awesome guide written by Numbchux is your best bet, in my own humble opinion. You can download the .pdf file here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122276-the-bumble-beast/page-5?do=findComment&comment=1212255 Kind Regards.

So, the hard start issue was there due to a failing Fuel Pump and a stuck check valve. Also we noticed that since the fuel pump's assembly swap, the car has much more Guts to climb uphills and it accelerates much Faster ... Now it needs only a slight touch on the gas pedal to fly away! Kind Regards.

The very first try took a couple of turns from the Starter Motor, because the fuel system was empty and obviously, unpressurized; however, according to the Fuel Pressure meter, it pumped the Fuel way faster and developed much more pressure, more than 55 P.S.i. and also, the pressure stayed there rock solid at almost the same numbers, after the engine was shut off! That happened a Week Ago, and every single time we need to start the engine, it only takes around a complete turn of the Crank to catch up, which mean Fast Startings, all of them at the very first try!

So, after the fuel tank was clean and dry, I placed this Fuel Pump Assembly that came from the Junk Yard, on it; then the three plugs were connected and the FTPS was simply ignored; I removed its plug to avoid having unused wires hanging around that area; and I used a Zip Tie to fix the DMTL plugs in place. Placed the metal plate cover and the seat back in their places, finally poured a gallon of fresh, high octane Gasoline... and went to start the Car.

Since automotive electrics & electronics are not a mystery nor a problem for me, I dared to purchase that Fuel Pump Assembly, which in fact was in way better shape and cleaner, than the worn out one, that came from the "KiaStein" I cut off the wiring with the three plugs from the worn out one, and I Soldered each wire to the junk yard one, isolating each wire individually, with lots of turns of good quality electrical tape; finally I wrapped all the individually isolated wires, with more turns of said electrical tape: The green stains were painted by the Junk Yard Salesgirl ... that along the sales receipt, is the way the Junk Yard People ensures that any returned part for warranty, was really purchased at their place, and was not opened, for subtracting any internal parts.

Well, you forgot to specify which model of Subaru are we talking about, but If yours is an EA82, Why not use the one from a Legacy or a Forester, instead of Machining / Modifying the existing one? Kind regards.

Yes, I've done that several times: Yes, I must had a Brainfart when I wrote the above post. Let me Fix it... Kind Regards.