Leeroy

From this: To this: And this: On this!

Would look good from the picture and your suggested changes, go for it!

I am just about to cover my '74 sedan's underside in Ankor Wax. While I have been doing a rear disc brake conversion I have noted there is quite a bit of surface rust so I will give it a good cover of Ankor Wax. It does need to be recovered every couple of years but is simple enough. I must say I love this stuff! You can paint it on with a brush or spray if needed and in my experience it stops further rusting completely. Only downside is that It does take a few days to dry completely if the weather is hot. I don't suppose Ankor Wax is available in the US but it is used a lot by the VW crowd for their Patina Beetles to keep the rust at bay. Perhaps there are similar products? This is certainly easier than striping and repainting the underside of the car, far less time consuming and cost effective in my opinion. Especially when it is surface rust that you want to contain not rust through.

If you already have a Weber no point looking for a Hitachi! No it will not be too big but you might have change the jetting to suit. Simplest way is to keep your existing manifold and buy an adapter plate for the Weber.

I certainly think black and your other colour suggestions would work great with your Brat's paint. And agree that if it is possible a flat or matt finish would be cool.

Tyres on both the Jackmans (for the dirt roads) and the alloys (for the street)!

Hey Bantum the panel van is not really a conversion as such, it simply would have been produced side by side with the ute on the production line... But you knew that...

If your CV joint is OK then you can just replace the DOJ at the gearbox end. Yes it is messy thanks to all the grease but with the right tools, new boots, bands and grease it only takes around 20 minutes to rebuild them (once they are out of the car of course!). NKN is original equipment for Subaru too.

The stripes are done by a member here, check this thread and I am sure custom colours can be done: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/117562-tons-old-school-subaru-decals-on-ebay/?hl=stripes&do=findComment&comment=997386

Get the some white spokes rims for the front now!

Here you go, same seller different stripes: http://www.ebay.com/itm/140718462069 While they are possibly not 100% per the original decals, they are (IMHO) among the best available and made with modern materials so they should last well. Looks like the photos of the stripes are no longer working... Perhaps Pooparu can fix his listing!?!

There where actually two different decals on the Gen 1 Brats. You appear to be comparing the two different types. I believe the eBay seller you linked to sells both types. Opps, actually there were three types. '78-'80 (approximately) had multicoloured stipes along the sides. Both a short version that ended before the doors and long version that continued along the doors and stopped at the mirrors. The '81 EA81 Brat (again approx) had the larger single colour stripe that wrapped around the entire vehicle.

Not bad at all! Congrats. The more I look the more holes I find in my 1980 Brumby...

Ahh... Your cowl rust repair pics are back! Thanks Mark, those always give me some comfort!

Yes, supposedly archaic technology has its benefits!

Firstly I would not put any faith in the accuracy of Wikipedia entries! Secondly there are two different measurements for horsepower being used, BHP and PS and lastly the Japanese used to list the power figures at the flywheel rather than will all the accessories fitted (such as fans, alternator and so on). Having stated all that it does appear the JDM EA71 had 10 kW more than the US version...

Had a quick look and you will have remove the suspension transverse links too... To me engine out would be much easier.

Cool, I have a look at my '74 DL sedan tonight and see what your chances are and post back.

I would think that might work and yes it sounds like you are describing the steering gearbox mounts. Only thing is you will still have the 4 crossmember bolts, steering tie rods and steering rag joint. Sorry I am not at home at the moment and I cannot check to make sure for you!

I would post photos but it is an engine only, so not really that interesting (plus it is 'buried' in my garage)!

villainous, you will still have the oil pick up to maneuver around so I doubt it will be easy. These model Subarus were designed for the engine to be removed to work on, rather than 'in situ' If you can support the engine it might work to remove the crossmember and steering gearbox entirely.

Thanks Mark... I did mix that up! Obviously the steering rack is on top of the crossmember on early models and underneath on the later ones... Trust me to post without checking first! Still not easy to get to the oil pan bolts while it is in the engine bay...

I do not think there are any access holes in the '73 engine crossmember (most likely due the the steering gearbox location - it mounts underneath not on top of the crossmember like later models). IMHO the simplest way would be to pull the engine but I suppose you could also lift it enough to undo the oil pan bolts. You might have to undo the engine mounts, engine stay/bracket and possibly the exhaust to get enough room to lift the engine... There are only a few more bolts and the engine could come out. These engines are so easy to remove (with an engine crane/hoist of course)!

I actually have an FJ1600 EA71 engine from a 'Manatee' and I can confirm that while it is twin carb, it does not have dual port heads or reversed valves like the EA81S.

I do not believe the EA71 twin carb engines ever came with reversed valves or dual exhaust ports. Perhaps Subaru used them in competition but they were not available to the public. Certainly none of the various parts catalogues I have list different heads for the EA71. Even my FJ1600 twin carb engine has your average single port heads with standard valve configuration. This is slightly off topic, however, I wonder if anyone has ever come across a dual exhaust port EA71 engine or head?