Gl-boost

Yea, same thing was in my GL-10 sedan. It was by the yard of a field and was siting for quite some time. I found my mouse in the runk storage area and tried to kill it with a piece of exhaust pipe, but it was lucky enought to escape through the holes in the trunk. I just turned on my fan and it all came out, didn't know there was a door to open.

Well it was worth asking, I thought I would be that lucky .

Oh I thought that the 2WD cars tranny could be put into a 4WD car and work ( the 4WD of course).

Hers one When I first got my soob I decided to change the tranny fluid. I had the car in my fathers garage and let the lift down for some reason. I then started to fill up with atf and some Lucas, 1 quart, 2quart, and I check it and its no showing yet, 3 quart and the Lucas and still its not showing on the dip sick, well I put in a 5th quart and check it and well it sill isnt showing. I was saying what the hell this thing holds a dam good amount of fliud. Well it was then that a pool of red crap cam flowing from under my car that I relized I for got to put back the drain plug. I was distracted when I kept being asked if I was done yet. Oh and even better You guys will probly kill me over this one, I had a 86 BMW 325es. Once again I was at my fathers garage and put the car on the lift, was checking the front end. I left the key in the ignition and well opend the drivers door to take it out, I then left the door open and went o check the front end. Well the car was still to low and since the tires were right there I wanted to check my air. Checked all the air and went from the drivers side to the pass side ront and thats where the lift controlls are. If you havent guessed what has happend yet then you will now, I lifted the car and start to hear crunch, crunch,crack, crack, and then elize oh ST:eek: I left the door open, crushed it and bent it down ward, luckly I had the window open so after jacing up on the door and bending the glass rame back it closes and works. I say this is probly the worst on here so I win.

The vaccum module line will run into the back of you intake, there will be a nipple that you an see, If the moor you have switched in wasn't a auto it will be pluged of with a rubbe cap. The vaccum hose runs to another metal line that runs down the passenger side of the tranny, then when it gets to the module it will be connected to another little 90 degree rubber vaccum hose to the module. he other rubber ose you talk of is right on top of the trany and does'nt go anyware, this hose will be larger than the module hose.

whoa, had a long night of work yesterday and didn't get a chance to get on after. I don't see why you can't mix synthetic with regular, they have synthetic blend oil thats not full syntec. As for oil leaks I have had some before and have noticed them still, I amm still monitoring the oil level and watching it greatly. So everythings ok then, I just was worried about that tick when cold but I let her warm up and cool down anyway, i don't like o boost on a cold engine and let her idel after driveing.

The auto trannys have a vacum module on them. It could be that during the swap it was not connected back in place to the motor. Its in the back of the intake ( if your tire is there take it out) and check for a small metal pipe that will run down along the passenger side of the tranny. make sure the rubber vaccume hose is on there. Worst is that it can be the tranny its self. subaru 3at trannys suck and mine tends to slip sometimes. It also shifts like you say yours does but only some times also.

I went to the junk yard on monday to grab an IC but with no luck did they have one. I came across a loyal with a 3at and want wanted to see if it was 4WD because my 3at is craping out. It wasn't but when I looked under the hood to check the fluid I saw a metal dip stick on the passenger side. This is the 4WD dip stick for the diffrential oil right, so why would the 2WD car have this. I didn't pull it to check but I just wanted to know if they all were like this and if so whats there.

I just recently switched to full synthetic(in my GL-10 turbo) and know when I start up from a dead cold start in the morning I hear a slight tick. I know these commonly get ticks but I din't remember it with regular oil. I am running 10-30 full castrol synthetic and did notice when putting the oil in at the change that it seems thinner than regular oil. It stops after a minute or less when it warms up a bit. I just wanted to know if anyone has experienced this.

I broke that filter looking end when I was replaceing my turbo coolent hose. I left it off and the car still runs fine.

The car should be fine to drive, like said check for any rubbing and fix any lights that are out for now. I am in a body shop class and have seen rear end collisions look fine from the outside. If the bumper cover is broken to the piont of the styrafoam showing then I would suspect hidden damage. The metal piece you talk about is bolted to the back of the car and I have seen the mounting points bend up and push in slightly in some rear end hits. Ither way though ts still driveable. Just hope they caught that chick that took off ( they did right).

I have a GL-10 also and have had 175 size tires on it. I to drive from school to work and have had no problem. Mine would still have been fine to but I found 185 size tires with better tread.

I hate rust, My soob has rust on it to but in the secret areas. Thats why if I decide to ever get another soob from the 80's I will be travleing to the rust free states to buy one thats worth it.

Yea, I have had the BPV already. Its from a SAAB 9000. They are pretty loud from what ive heard on other SAAB 9000's.

Dam, I forgot about pick n pulls. I tried there last year but I guess you have to be 18 to enter or so they say. I was going to try again this summer when i turn 18 but my friend just lies to them about his age and he gets through.

I admit, I just took out my airbox and installed a cone filter I have had and with the turbo engine it sounds nice. I like it, nice snarl and will probly be better once I get my IC and BPV installed. I can't wait.

I had no luck today, There was no 900 turbo, so I will try at another junk yard.

Well today is the day, I hope they have one because this is an import yard only with one or two domestic cars. Oh and as for takeing off the fender to get to it I just remembed that I cant, they are welded to the car. So maybe just the bumpr but hopefully not even that.

Ok then, I will look for an 16valve turbo. I usaully don't break parts, I only do so when the part I want or need is in a hard to reach spot, but I will try and do so the right way.

Oh ok then, I did get the threads mixed up.

Thanks Subarujunky I was hopeing you would reply. I do't have a problem brakeing anything in the way, I just was hopeing that you don't have to take off the fender or the bumper.

I will be going to the junk yard tommorow and am going to get a saab 900 IC if there is one. To all of you that have the Saab 900 IC, did you take them off the car your selves. If so what was involved in doing this, and what tools were needed if you can remember. I just want to know so that I have everything I need to take it off the car.

Congrat's on the progress. You are the one just installed the JDM motor right. I get lost sometimes with all the threads. If so how much did the motor run you.

Replaceing head bolts is an argued subject, some people get away with reuseing them and others arent so lucky. They are usually recomended to be replaced when takeing of the head. This is for the main reason of when you torque down the bolts that they stretch. if you reuse the stretched bolts they wont have the right length to be tightend properly which will result in another blown head gasket. So if I were you I would not take the chance of reuseing the old head bolts. I would rather spend some extra cash than to have to spend all that money all over agin to replace the head gaskets.

I have the same problem on my 87 Gl-10 sedan. it works for all other doors but the drivers side. I think its just a faulty switch.